Brake heat soak problems after swap.
12-07-2007, 02:19 AM
#1
Brake heat soak problems after swap. I just finished doing a vortec 350 swap on a 96 s10 for a customer. All was perfect for 700 miles afterwards. Now the front brakes are slowly applying the more you drive it till the point they are damm near locked up. I wrapped all of the brake lines by the drivers side header( using sanderson shorties) no dice. I gave up and replaced the master no dice. When you are on the side of the road with them dead locked you can crack the line for the front brakes at either the ABS unit or on the master and it will release chingos pressure and you can hear the calipers relax. Does anyone know WTF is going on or where I can go next. I have done several of these trucks and never had this occur.
12-07-2007, 02:29 PM
#3
I just finished doing a vortec 350 swap on a 96 s10 for a customer. All was perfect for 700 miles afterwards. Now the front brakes are slowly applying the more you drive it till the point they are damm near locked up. I wrapped all of the brake lines by the drivers side header( using sanderson shorties) no dice. I gave up and replaced the master no dice. When you are on the side of the road with them dead locked you can crack the line for the front brakes at either the ABS unit or on the master and it will release chingos pressure and you can hear the calipers relax. Does anyone know WTF is going on or where I can go next. I have done several of these trucks and never had this occur.
hi,
after you drive for awhile and the brakes lock up, loosen up the 2 bolts that connect the master cylinder to the brake booster. loosen them up atleast 5 turns, if the brakes free up, the plunger that applies force to the cylinder is too long, shorten it accordingly.
hope this helps,
volkan
12-07-2007, 02:58 PM
#4
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hi,
after you drive for awhile and the brakes lock up, loosen up the 2 bolts that connect the master cylinder to the brake booster. loosen them up atleast 5 turns, if the brakes free up, the plunger that applies force to the cylinder is too long, shorten it accordingly.
hope this helps,
volkan
after you drive for awhile and the brakes lock up, loosen up the 2 bolts that connect the master cylinder to the brake booster. loosen them up atleast 5 turns, if the brakes free up, the plunger that applies force to the cylinder is too long, shorten it accordingly.
hope this helps,
volkan
12-07-2007, 05:54 PM
#5
Well everyone was on the right path with the brake booster. I had time to tinker with it during lunch. I backed off the bolts on the master it was perfect. I noticed the button on the booster was out way far and the pedal was not depressed. I disconnected the vaccum line and the button sunk back to normal. Hooked it up and out she came. I put a new booster on it and drove it home this afternoon and it seems to be great now. I swear the weird things you run across while working on cars for a living will drive you up a wall.
12-09-2007, 12:18 AM
#6
no what gets you are the ones where someone put a junk yard part on... so it's dirty and matches everything under the hood. and they don't tell you they were playing mechanic and it started after they got done playing around. those are the ones where you go HUH? how the heck could the car have been driven for so long like this?
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12-09-2007, 11:20 AM
#8
the problem you experienced came from the master cylinder not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir. the pushrod adjustment must allow fluid on the pressure side of the master cylinder to return to the reservoir when the pedal is in it's resting position. i've seen this a number of times, but so infrequently that it seems new everytime.
