Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone, spent all last night trying to start my 68 Camaro up for the first time. It has an LS1 from a 2000 Camaro and the harness has been modified by wait4meperformance.

for some reason, the computer is not sending a signal to activate the injectors. Also, I'm not getting any spark. The battery is giving between 11.8 and 12 volts and I've checked for ground three times now. I'm assuming that the VATS has been disabled, what does the VATS disable or how would a car act if the VATS was still enabled and you were trying to turn on?


The starter turns and the fuel pump turns on. Checked the crank sensor and the map sensor with a scanner tool and appear to work (they send a signal to the computer). The computer gets ground and does not appear fried or damaged. Really stuck here, any help would be greatly appreciated, can't wait to turn my car on

bczee

iTrader: (12)

If the VAT disable failed. the engine would start up ok for about 2 sec and then cut off.

are the plug wet from fuel ? any spark at the plugs.. Get or build a test light (Noid ?) to check the injector feel.

Good luck.. if you can give any more description of what is happening. Give Jesse a call at Wait4meproformance.. maybe he can help check the wiring and PCM..

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply, I remember reading about leonpiper69 having trouble starting his car up, but in his case the injectors worked. In my case, the injectors are not getting a signal from the cpu (?). Jesse is a helpful guy, but I'll have to call him tomorrow. It seems that everything works fine up to the computer. However, for some reason the computer is not sending a signal to the injectors or the coil packs. I'll try to check out the spark plugs later on today.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked the computer for codes?

Checked the wiring to the crank and cam sensors?

hugger 6933

Do you have voltage at the injectors and coils but no pulse? I had the similar problem on my 5.3, it turn out to be a cut wire in the harness near the crankshaft sensor[I had already changed] Jim

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

computer will not fire injectors unless it see's cranking RPM....No spark is the main thing i'd chace.. Injectors will probably fire once you are getting spark.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would recommend next that you check the Crank and Cam sensor to make sure they are not the problem and connect ok. along with sending a signal output to the PCM.

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

Nemesis68 - I was racing with you on "won't start threads" this weekend. And, unless you've got your car cranked and haven't posted, I beat you.

I don't know if my solution will help you or not, but check my last post. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t8685482<br />

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Hey 55Chevy, glad to hear that you got your car started. It definately can be the same problem that you had, since I also have the painless wiring kit and I don't recall strapping ign1 and ign2. I did use the pink wire to feed the PCM. Unfortunately, won't be able to touch my car until Thursday

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Do you have all three ground wires bolted to the back of the heads?

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Yea, that was the first thing I checked, that seems to be one of the problems on a lot of first start-up posts.

dogtag

Check your fuel pressure. There should be no more than 60psi
If there is more, the injectors just won't work and the engine will crank all day long and not start.

You could try attaching a pressure gague to the shrader valve on the fuel rail to check.
The other suggestions about the cam and crank sensors seem to be a possibility but not likely.

In my LS1, I ordered my fuel tank with the fuel pump built in.
Turns out it was for an LT1.
I had 125 psi of fuel pressure at the engine. The injectors would just not operate.
I ordered an outboard regulator for a Vette and ran the return from the regulator back to the capped off return at the tank.
I've got more than 25 K on the car now and it starts and runs like a watch.

DT

bczee

iTrader: (12)

That is a sweet Olds you got there !...

perfecthirpm

make sure you are using the computer that the manual suggest 12200411/9954896 and make sure the check engine light comes on when you turn the ignition to the run position and it stays on when the key is turned to the crank position. If it doesn't the pink IGN wire is not getting the proper 12v signal like 55CHEVY's problem. also make sure the VATS module is connected properly.

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

The pink wire on my Painless ls1 harness was labeled "Fuse Block Ignition". This is the one that must show 12 volts when the ignition is in the crank and run positions.

First I would put a voltmeter or test light on the PCM pink lead, labeled "Fuse Block Ignition", and see if you have 12 volts while you are trying to crank the engine and after you release the key to the run position. If you have good voltage in both positions, you must have a different problem.

If you don't have 12 volts, check your fuse panel for a place to connect it. You don't want a permanent 12 volts on the lead, just when the key is on or cranking. The fix Painless gave me was strapping IGN1 and ING2 on my old '55 igintion switch. This in turn gave me the right voltage on the wire that was originally in the body harness to connect to the coil of a regular engine. That is where I picked up the lead to send to the PCM Pink lead.

If you need clarification, let me know.
Good luck.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

'68 is when Chevy switched over to ignition switches that keep the IGN circuit hot in START. However, they still had the yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the coil... so if someone had put a '67 ignition switch in it, the car would have still started/ran fine as long as the yellow wire was still there.

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Dam I feel dumb saying this, but I found the problem. The computer power was connected to ACC in the ignition switch. I couldn't turn the car on directly because a popped a fuse. But I was able to turn it on using the power probe. It turned right on without any hesitation. Only got to run for about 10 seconds because I don't have any mufflers on it yet. But dam it felt good finally making the engine run Thanks for all the help!

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

congrats on getting it fired!

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, couldnt have done it without all the info supplied on this website. Turned the car on yesterday around 11:00pm; don't know if the neighbors were too happy since all the dogs in the neighborhood started barking. Still need to make final checks and clean up some of the wiring. Rockytopper's thread has me thinking about the oil pressure too.

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

BTW Rodder, how do you like that hydraboost brake kit?