gremjimi70

I doing a conversion on a Gremlin. I got a 5.3L for $400 with a bent pushrod.
I already have the motor mounted and changed to a Fbody intake, theres my first problem, should I convert to Fbody injectors or can I make the truck ones work?

I looking for more info on the wiring harness and PCM setups that others guys are running? Are you buying aftermarket stuff or are you converting OEM?
I found this:

http://www.blackfbody.com/media/LS1_Engine_Kit.pdf

GO to page 22 there is some good stuff here

The rest of the driveline is and munci 4-speed and a 9-inch ford and I am planning on a single turbo set-up and suggestions on what turbo or size?

I want to make at least 500 hp and get 20+ mpg I know this will be easy with the right set up.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Great project! Check out the newest edition of Hot Rod. There is an article on a Turbo 5.3 in a Fairmont running in the 9s! The thing is done totally on the cheap, just changed to an LS6 cam, custom made some headers to route to the turbo, then put a Turbo 400 with a brake.

Keep us posted on your project. We like unusual/wierd stuff!

Pat

gremjimi70

I have that book, nothing really about the wiring. What did you for the 8 or so pink wires that go into the original fuse panel? How did you power everything up?

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I cheated... I had Speartech build a custom harness for me. It came complete with all the wires marked, I think I had just 4 wires to hook up to 12v and ground. it came with it's own 4 fuse panel and fuel pump relay. I am not a wiring techie, but there are many on the forum who have doen their own. Hopefully some will chime in. Otherewise the Search, Stickys and the FAQ are your friends

Pat

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

The F-body injectors are gonna be too short to mount in a ls1 intake, you can put car injectors in a truck intake but not vice-versa, as far as I know. And your probably going to have issues with your throttle body and that front drive set up, but I noticed there was a hole torched in the waterpump pulley. Are you going to change the front drive to F-body parts? Might be easier. The pink wires in the engine harness are usually ignition wires (hot in run, bulb test and start). Most librarys have very good service manuals with wiring diagrams, I've used Mitchell at our local library, they seem to be pretty good. But if you have access to Mitchell on Demand, they have wiring diagrams in color, which just makes life a little easier. Best of luck with your project. Eric.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Pat. Also in the same month of Hot Rod.. they had a artical on AMC makeing a come back and had some drawing of some concept cars for all of the old line of AMC !.. cool..

gremjimi70

Yea I was going to go with an Fbody waterpump. I don't have PS or A/C so I will have to make an alternator mount, I 'm waiting to do the turbo pumping first.Thanx for the info.

Mke Vee

iTrader: (3)

Holy Sh*t that's a clean Gremlin. Good luck with your swap!
MV

BoozrCruzr

iTrader: (2)

I am running a truck harness with my setup and I used the power distribution center from the donor truck. Then, it was pretty much a matter of adding a ground, a start signal from original harness, and maybe one other wire (been a few months). That is about as easy as it gets if you are running the truck harness.

gremjimi70

I know i haven't posted on this in awhile... but im starting up on the project again, i bought a f-body harness a PCM off ebay last week.

Its for a auto trans how will that affect me using a muncie 4speed?

I want to get the HP tuners set-up so i re-tune for different set-ups, will i still have to send the PCM out to get it reflashed?

Gray Ghost

That AMC 'article' was a very cool April Fools joke....they had me goin' there for a minute. I had a '74 Hornet X 304....had it setup enough to outrun most of my buddy's cars.

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

Holy big pictures batman!!

Hahaha cool project, just better hope you don't get rearended. What do those things weigh out of curiosity?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The auto harness will just have some extra wires. You can remove all of the transmission wiring. The only thing you might want to keep would be the vehicle speed sensor wiring. Most people say that it is better to keep a VSS, but it is not absolutely needed, just gives better driveability.

If you have HPTuner you can re-flash the PCM yourself. check out the PCM section or the HPT forums for the broad programming idea, but don`t hesitate to ask questions.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

That would be a Pinto..

gremjimi70

It should come in at around 2700-2800 lb, but i took a lot out of it.. no heat manual anything it will be a good power-to-weight ratio

Is there a difference in the PCM programing between a factory auto trans and 6 spd?

poconojoe

iTrader: (43)

Its not hard to change
PM me your email address and I can help you out with that end of your project

crookedbowtie

Why a muncie 4 speed? Do they make a bell housing for that or do you have to fab one? Are you using a M20, M21, or M22? A M21 or 22 won't have a very low gear to make the rear gear you are going to need to run to meet your mileage goals work well. Even the M20's first gear isn't that low and your 4th is 1:1 regardless, meaning you are going to need to run a 2:73 or 3.08 rear gear. Even though it is light it won't be that drivable and will eat up clutches unless you run a Mcleod twin or have a really strong clutch that will chatter when you take off. I ran a M20 behind about 550 horse motor in my Chevelle (about 3400lbs) for all of about 100 miles before it fragged on a hard run through the gears. Why not a world class T5 or a T56? I sold my M20 for $850 and picked up a T56 for $800.

Old Kid

I've got a 99 LS1 and 6 spd in my 66 Rambler American (also white). I'm also trying to finish the wiring harness install. Your body layout looks the same as mine (AMC didn't change much). The f-body harness was long enough to put the computer and fuse/relay panels under the dash where the heater box was. I built an aluminum shelf and mounted everything on it. Can't be seen unless you open the glove box. Ran the wires from under the hood through a gromet in an aluminum block off plate where your old heater fan motor was. Only wires to lengthen were to the fans and coolant level sender. The 99 Camaro radiator and fans were almost a drop in! ( I used lots of parts from my 99SS parts car) The 99 underhood fuse block had a fusable link feeding the interior fuse block. I used this feed to power the original Rambler fuse panel. Haven't completed it yet but should be able to take the Rambler ignition start wire and tie it into the F-body start circuit. If I could only figure a way to fit the 99 serial port gauge pod into the short Rambler dash-I'd have all the gauges, idiot lights, and mil running off the pcm. I'll watch this thread for any other questions. Also, which oil pan did you use? Good luck!

gremjimi70

I used the truck pan. It has a pretty deep rear sump so i had to raise the motor 3/4" to 7/8" off what the gen I was that i had in there. It hangs about 2" below the crossmember, but at my ride height ill be ok.

gremjimi70

I just got my wiring harness. It doesn't seem to have a OBDII plug? What is it near on the harness? Is there a pigtail for it or did it get cut? Its from a 2001 camaro...