thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

In the long run what is the cheapest and easiest way to safely go about setting up my chevelle for the fuel injection on the LS1?

I have both a 5.3 truck single line system available and the 98 ls1 dual line if they are interechangeable and that makes a difference.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The cheapest easiest way would be to use a 94-96 caprice fuel tank and sending unit assembly. You will have to cut the floor of your trunk to do that though. Then use the dual line fuel rail and you should just about be able to clip the lines together with factory plastic lines and quick connects.

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

Maybe an external electric pump. Cheapest, may not be the best....

Rick

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

An external pump will work, but you have to watch the fuel level. When the tank gets low it will start to suck air on hard acceleration and turns. The car will fall flat on its face as the engine runs out of fuel pressure, and it is not very good for the pump.

Schwanke Engines

iTrader: (1)

We have a customer with a 71 Chevelle. I would recommend our Walbro inline pump, filter, and use the single feed fuel rail. That would be the easiest so because you wouldn't have to run 2 new fuel lines to the front, only 1.

Give me a call if you are interested.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would recommend the single line as being the cheapest and that way you don't have to run a return line if one is not already there.
use the existing 3/8" hard line. ($0)
use a Impala tank. I got mine for $50.
use the 99+ Vette FPR. ($40)
Some FI rated hose and clamps and your done. ($20-$40?)
User a Stock or After market pump for the B-Body tank. ( I used the Racetronic kit which Included the wiring kit and pump).

There is really no need to use Q/D, AN Fittings or SS hose ($100-$250) if your Stock or mid stock engines that is just for cruising and DD.

You Chevelle Feed line should be on the passenger side and if you using a LS1/6 etc type of fuel rail. you can flip it 180 and be closer to the stock 3/8" hard line (I did this). This wil cut down the amount of hose you will need. Also may use some more 3/8" hard line and some short hose to connect the stock feel line and the fuel rail. (like old style and your old chevelle setup).

Cheap is good. . but not always the best.. just keep in mind of the Safety factors and Reliability in your planning of the fuel system.

good luck..

Don't know how much more you can cut cost by just using FI Rated hose and clamps...

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I am just looking for the easiest way to get this running well until I have the money to do nice fittings and stainless lines and all that jazz later.

I keep seeing setups with $900 fuel tanks and the like and there is no way I can afford that anytime soon.

I want it to be safe and reliable, but not cost as much as the engine basically.

So it sounds like I could just use an inline pump and replace the rubber hoses on the car then for FI rated ones basically then?

rockytopper

I don't thank changing the tank is necessary but some folks do. I just purchased a new sending unit with a return line in it. Welbro pump, vet filter regulator. I did not even run new hard line. Mine was 5/16 and on the wrong side. I paid about 120$ and had my local hydralic shop make me a custom 1200 psi hi temp line that is steel braided. Basically I copied what these guys that do it for a living did. It by far is not the best but it's diffently the cheapest.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1.../photo_01.html

LSfan70s

Sweeet info! Wow! Thanks guys.
I'm subscribing.

BLWN1

iTrader: (6)

Nice info

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

someone recommended a weld on fuel sump from summit ($60) so the in line pump wont lose fuel...seems like a great idea to me

any opinions? these are only $60 from summit or $30 on ebay and I can weld it on myself

if not, what years fuel tanks from other vehicles such as impalas will fit?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

If that is the look your going for.. the go for it. (weld on sump).

But if you can find a used Impala tank . 1) it is already setup with a sump, 2) it has the correct feed and return lines, 3) the fuel gauge sender is the correct ohm's and your stock fuel gauge will work with your Chevelle. 4) only a minor trim of your frame is needed (1/8 - 1/4") for about 6" on each side 5) Straps, you can modify the B-Body one as Stealth71 did, I didn't get the straps so I made mine out of 1/8" x 1" strap metal.

Add a 255 class pump.. most people use the 94-96 tanks, but other years will work. you might find one for free (I paid $50) if you know someone who is parting out a Impala, Caprice or Buick. Your going to spend the money on a Pump anyway.. Intanks are cheap(er) and usually last longer and make less noise.

Note: Using a external sump (weld on) is or might be illegal on the Streets, check your local laws.. (but people don't normally have problems with the law offen, so that is up to you). IMO: It is also a saftety factor on the streets using the extranal weld on sump for the reason that something can catch the hose or line and snap/pull the hose from the sump/connector as they have to be on the rear and lowest point of the tank, usually exposed.

You trying to make sure you got options and opions. my 2 cents.... good luck..

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

thanks for the great info...I'll definately look into the tank and stuff

just checking options before I start buying stuff

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Just remember that welding on a used fuel tank can be dangerous. I have done it a few times, but you need to make sure to clear the fumes first.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

ok, so if I buy a new tank ($100) does anyone know what kind of weld in baffling would be sufficient so that I can just run an external Walbro pump and be done with this? I can weld, I just need ideas on a baffle design that will work

then all will look stock, I keep the factory sending unit, and don't have to wonder if there is rust or crud in my current tank (even though this car has been on the road its whole life)