LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

First post!

Hello! I'm new to this forum, but I some questions that were not answered definitively when I did a topic search. so I'm hoping I can get some help.

I will begin swapping a 4.8/4L60E combo into my restored 77 Camaro LT. For those of you that will ask "why a 4.8", well, I got the whole setup with all harnesses (with PCM) and electrical for about $2400...and it's all got 9 miles on it! Also, with gas closing on $4.00, even 1 or 2 MPG makes a difference over the long run. Anyway, I've got plenty of LS1 experience, having owned a couple of late 4th-gen SS's, but the whole swap business is new to me.

Here are my questions:

Accessory drive: My setup came out of an Express Van but appears to have the truck accessory drive with the AC at the 7 o'clock position and alternator up top. I've read conflicting information about whether or not I'll have fabricate brackets or just drop this in, but basically I need to know if I can use the truck drive.

Accessories part II: Another issue is that I've read the truck intake will not clear the hood and that an LS1 intake should be used. I have a spare lying around, but I've read in a couple of places that I'll have to re-work the accessory drive so that the LS1 intake plumbing will clear. Also, I've read that the thruck fuel rails will need to be replaced if I go to the LS1 intake...Is this all true? If it is, it just might be better to use the truck intake and "scoop" the hood, as I want to keep the engine as stock as possible.

Electronic throttle: The engine has throttle-by-wire. There's very little information on getting this to work in a swap car (aside from going to an earlier cable-throttle). What do I need to get the ETC to work? Is it even worth the trouble?

Factory gauges: How do I get the factory gauges to work for this. I know I can get a VSS converter that drives a motor for the speedo cable, but what about the tach. I know that Gen III V8s use a 5-volt bus, and due to the ignition system, the old-style tack won't work. Any way around this? Also, is there any way to rig up a driver information center to get all the factory engine data?

Air Conditioning: I'd like to use the compressor that came with the new engine with my car's AC. Anything special that I need to do besides fabricate the lines? I know I'll have to convert to R-134a, but don't I have to make some sort of connection to the PCM to for idle compensation?

Lastly, any idea on gas mileage? I'm gonna leave the stock 2.56:1 gearset in the back. I don't have a heavy foot, and I'm hoping to get 20 MPG on the highway with this setup.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

The truck intake will clear the hood with the evap solenoid removed but the alternator won't. The ac compressor will need to be moved or notch the subframe. I have a LQ9 and 4L80E in a 81 trans am. I kept the dbw. You need the gas pedal and the TAC module. You can cut the bracket on the pedal and use it in your car. I replaced the stock gauges with autometer gauges. Send me an email and I can send you pictures of the accessory brackets and the gas pedal. You can get an alldata subscription for $15 and print off the schematics for the donor vehicle. This was very helpful for reworking my wire harness.

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

Her's a pic of the motor...I can see how the alternator would be tight:

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

You can use the Dakta Digital adapter for the tach. Works great (see our swap for PN). We are getting 27mpg with LS1/T56 and 3.08 rear in a 67, so 20 shouldn't be a problem. You need to notch the frame if you keep the AC, and you will have trouble with the alternator location. For the stock speedo, you can use a Cable-X to drive it. The Van is considered a truck for acc. routing. You need to get the peddle and module for the DBW if you are keeping that throttle body. You could swap it to a cable operated one as well, but I don't know which fit your app. You will need to buy or fab brackets to drop it in, the motor mounts are very different, but you can buy adapters cheap, or make some up. You will need to buy/mod/make a trans crossmember as well.

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

Here are some of the pictures I have at various stages. I originally had the truck intake and then switched to the LS6 intake.

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

So, it looks like you adapted the original 70's GM AC compressor to work with the new motor. I imagine this save you from having to fab custom lines. Did you have to do anything else with the drive one you built those brackets, or did you make due with the remaining factory routing hardware?

Thanks again!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

76LQ9TA.. I see at one point you were designing a intake to use the factory scoop.. did you give up on it or still trying to come up with something. ?

I guess you may have seen my Cowl Induction hood.. would like to see what you come up with a finish job if you do it..

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I am using my factory tach, all I had to do was to reset the tach pulse output in HPTuners. I have heard of a couple people needing to make a pull-up circuit, but I didn`t hear of any other problems with using the factory tach

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

Besides the aluminum for the brackets, you will need a smooth 3" pulley and a belt tensioner from a 1996 Impala. The compressor is from a 1996 Camaro. When I get to the ac, I'm going to the Parker Hannifin store to get new lines made. Docs Blocks has the block that attaches to the compressor.
I am still working on adapting the shaker scoop to be functional. I am going to lay fiberglass around the foam and the oval aluminum tube. When it sets I can pour acetone inside of it and the foam will dissolve.

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the pictures of your setup. It will be a good starting point!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

76LQ9TA - just for reference.. what application is your upper radiator hose..? part number #?

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

76LQ9TA - just for reference.. what application is your upper radiator hose..? part number #?

When I had the truck intake installed, I used the upper hose from a 02 Escalade. Now I have the LS6 intake and am using the 4th gen hose for cars without the cooler.

4.8LGMC

if you have any pics or can tell me where I can get a set of motor mount adapters, i'd appreciate it. i'm putting a LS1 into my 77 T/A with twin turbos. Any help on motor mounts would be nice.
Engine looks tight in there. Good job on getting everything in there!!

FBJR

Question as I am getting going on my conversion of a 5.3 into 87 El Camino.

Can I swap the trauck intake for an LS1/LS6 intake straight over? It looks much better and has more flow.

Been trying ot search but not having luck yet.

THX

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

Short answer, Yes. You should look at the performance truck forum. There are several ways to do this. You will need to modify your waterpump or switch to the car waterpump. This will also depend if you keep the dbw throttlebody. You will also need to relocate the idler pulley or make a new setup like I did. The silverado ss forum also has information on this swap. The truck manifold flows very good. The LS6 is only better at high rpms. I changed the manifold so I could make the shaker scoop functional. It wasn't cheap when you add the cost of the manifold, waterpump, fuel rail, regulator, injectors and injector terminals. If I ever do another one of these swaps I'm going to buy a LQ9 and a high mileage LS6. It will be cheaper in the long run.

FBJR

Think I will just stay with the stock manifold then. Only issue is the pan from what I read and what "may" hang down.

THX

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

actually withe ls1 intake and rails, the truck regulator will fit in place of the F-body regulator, the tabs must be cut down or shortened .063 in and the Fuel pressure test port can have the schrader valve removed to use for the return line, Oh and the Truck MAP sensor will fit on the back of the IM where the brake booster line is.

76LQ9TA

iTrader: (1)

Here is a shot of the truck oil pan installed on a 78 trans am.

FBJR

Thats alot not to hit! Anyone have a picture of the truck pan on a G body?

THX

Lickeyman

iTrader: (1)

I like the work man......definitely good for a first time motor swap

I'd probably swap the pan.. Looks like an accident waiting to happen.

20mpg will be no sweat with the 4.8. What is the car's weight? And honestly you might want to raise the gear ratio some because it might be a little harder on the motor lugging it and actually be detrimental to efficiency. Dunno though test it out for sure though.

I had a 74 with the monstrous bumpers as well. Might wanna look into lighter alternatives to those things. I know you can get fiberglass fenders fairly cheap and knock 50lbs off it.

Got my dad talked into a 5.3 4l60 swap into his 79 fireturd.