black87c4

K, so I got the correct tool from ebay for cheap, how do you use this thing? I don't have a manual for any ls1 car/truck but do have the alldata which does not use this tool at all in there procedures. I can figure it out I guess but some of you have used this right? What is the torque on the oil pan bolts while I'm at it?

Thanks

builder1

iTrader: (4)

This might help, go onto www.hotrodlane.cc and click on tech for ls1 there is alot of info, hope this helps

black87c4

Well I can't find that link, that site is umm...busy to say the least

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

Which tool did you get? I aligned my oil pan with the bellhousing...

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Check this article out:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...alignment.html

Scroll through and look at the pictures with discriptions.

I used a level to align the rear cover and front cover with the block. Place the level on the oil pan rail and use a feeler gauge to check the front and rear cover. No more than .002" gap between either side

and what chuckyt1 says to align the oil pan with the rear of the block

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I have the oil pan/rear cover alignment tool, but didn't want to spend the bucks for the rear cover tool. Did you place the feeler gauge between the small tabs on the rear cover and crank itself?

black87c4

That sums it up pretty nice, thanks.

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

No, just let the seal center the cover. Then I used the feeler gauge to check the bottom of the cover with the pan rail and the level ( You have the tool for that). Once you get it square you just tighten it up the cover. Then I put the bell housing on the block (if you have a manual tranny). Put all the bolts in the pan (loose). Tighten the bolts to the the bell housing and draw it to the block, then draw the pan up to the bell housing, then tighten the pan bolts.

If you have an automatic you can use a level to square the back of the block and the rear of the pan before you tighten the pan bolts

I hope that explains it. Do not put any oil on the rear seal. I did that on the first one I built and it started leaking after it was all done. That was a bummer.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

boltin the pan on first would be the same as using the "tool", then just watch for fore/aft alignment, use the bellhousing as stated above...

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the tip. I've done this before, but last time I used the Kent Moore tool according to the service manual. Interesting that you installed the rear seal, then installed the cover to align it. I have an A4 which is still installed.

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

I started to buy that tool, but I thought it to be too expensive.

I read about using the seal, level,and feeler gauge method somewhere in a book. Now I can't find it? Go figure, but it works.