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I picked up a well used craiglist e36 m3 5 speed coupe 2 yrs ago with 176k miles. Oil use @ 1qt/500 miles if I beat on it. I continued to beat on it, AX it, attended to HPDE's for the next 2 yrs and 10k miles..... using oil all the while... but seemingly running better the more I flogged it. Last HPDE was at MSR Angelton so of Houston.... it was using 1 qt of oil per 2 - 20 min track sessions... which I figure is excessive LOL. No overheating, just ran like a watch.... a slow watch, but a watch.
I purchased a vorshlag ls1 swap kit (everything from the shop for a bolt-in affair).... the last parts arrived a few months ago.
I just rec'd the donor ls1/t56 drop-out from a running but front-ended 2002 Formula Firebird Stick..... from the vin I traced it to a copart auction in Wisconsin..... pretty clean car....someone loved it and inspection of the stock sp plug wires, sp plugs, etc... show it was well cared for.
The car:
totally restored body, interior, stock suspension, stock brakes, seats, etc... I saved the motor for last. So far I have pulled the stock ex, ds, head. Next step - pull the trans, block and part out the S52 bimmer motor to the m3 fans. They will pay some $ for the m3 parts.
The motor/trans:
1 ex man bolt broke off in the ls al head.... then broke the tap off in the bolt LOL. will dremel that mess out. Then need to decide on plans for this build.
Since the motor is a 2002 it already has a ls6 intake... and per the casting # on block has an LS6 block (supposed to have some good benefits at higher rpm... per interwebs), plus it sounds cool to say.
Heads -
option 1 - run stock as is 241 heads.
option 2 - send 241 out to likes of katech for port job, and fresh up the valves. only 57k now.
option 3 - 243 heads?
option 4 - AFR's? big $$.
Cam -
will be looking for ideas for the combo, and will be doing my research before I buy parts:
Car GOAL -
50% daily driver, I work 6 miles from home, in HOT san antonio summers 110 Deg F for 200 days per year (it seems). stop and go shi$ traffic.
50% HPDE car - needs to be able to run on a road course @ WOT for 5-8 20 min sessions per day.... would like to get 5 de's/yr.......
Will be looking for input on cam/head/intake options for 380-400rwph under above conditions. Don't want high stress on the valve train...... don't need to rev past stock rpm in what should be a 3K lb car with safety equip/driver.
While the engine is out:
1. front/rear main seals,
2. water pump?
3. belt tensioners / idler pulleys?
4. new sensors? it's on got 57 k doc miles per car fax.
5. keep stock harm bal?
6. new clutch/fw? LW fw? necessary?
Exhaust - plan to just re-use the stock m2 cat section 2.25" duals, and cat back 2.5" duals (dinan Muff) at first to get it running and tuned.
Pardon the long rant..... but super excited to finally get this build going. No turning back as motor is 50% out of the m3 bimmay.... like timmay!
On freshening the engine- Use it as is with that low a mileage to start out. These are tough engines!
Now, having said that, once you decide on a cam, THEN do the valve train. Lifters, lifter trays, pushrods (check for straightness on a pane of glass), valve springs.
Seals might be a good idea.
On heads, either get the 241's CNC ported or get some 243/799's. They are VERY common as they came on most Gen IV 4.8/5.3 truck engines. Then port them if desired.
Looks like you have a cool project! BMW handling with good ol' all aluminum American power!
Parts ordered:
Aftermarket ps pump w/billet pulley.
Sending vorshlag LT headers out for coating.
Sending psu out to wiring specialties this week for the start-up tune (negate security, egr, rear o2's, etc... just to get car started and get to tuning shop).
LS engine works:
Will Do -
front seal,
rear seal,
pilot bearing,
ls6 clutch, resurface fw (dep on inspection),
better plug wires, with ins covers,
new performance ps pump on order (heard of issues with stock ps pump on road course),
Might Do -
high tq starter
water pump
Perf upgrades might do If I get the urge -
send heads off for cnc milling, valve job,
matching cam, springs, guides,
Putting all of this used M3 S52 stuff on ebay this week to get this bimmer stuff out of my way - hope I can get a few bucks to pay for perf parts.
Road Racing LS goals -
I want to add mods to this ls to make it reliable 380 rwph @ 5000-6000rpm for 20 mins on a road course.
I want a linear tq curve across the rpm band.
I don't care about peak power, I don't care about hero numbers.......
Will source a cam that min stress on valve train and max hp/tq for my needs an intended use.......
I seem to recall the stock ls1 even with lt's, ls6 intake, and tune, runs out of steam up top? Can anyone confirm?
I assume this will be the goal for my cam / ported 241 goals?
The starter either new stock or new high torque is a good idea because I don't think you can R&R the starter without pulling the header. Also plug in the crank sensor connector before you bolt on the starter and header. The later model starters have a revised housing that requires a longer mounting bolt. That's the kind you want.
Anything above a stock cam will require new springs and push rods.
On my E36 swap I had a small cam and AFR heads. With a 91 octane tune it did 380 RWHP. Ran great. Plenty of vacuum for power brakes. No surging at low speeds.
I think you would be impressed with the way the stock LS1 runs in the E36 chassis.
The way you are going to run, a good set of CNC-ported 243/799 heads will do you well. The LS1 with LS6 intake and longtubes runs out of steam on top because of the stock LS1 heads.
I would add - choose carefully on the cam if this sees serious DD duty. Pretty easy to build one that’s all dreamy from 3500-6500, but not so much from idle to 2500, which is where most street time is spent.
I would add - choose carefully on the cam if this sees serious DD duty. Pretty easy to build one that’s all dreamy from 3500-6500, but not so much from idle to 2500, which is where most street time is spent.
^^^^^^^^ THIS! I can't stress this strongly enough. You would be surprised at how much power there is to be gained from a relatively mild cam, that will still drive nicely on the street.
I'd reach out to Ed Curtis here http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ and get him to drum you up a custom. Just be sure you're clear on what you're trying to accomplish, especially on the street.
Gents... I come back and find .... TECH FILLED REPLIES!!! Thank you..... i'm shocked from my recent experience in 'other' car forums.... I digress. but thanks!
LSI - will do, good scoop on starter! Agree on small (ish ) cam..... at 50 yo I'm not worried about the blub-blub at the drive in. wanting something that will pull GT3-esque on track...... and still have some *****......
G At - considering new AFR's..... Or get katech to port my ls1's...... alot will dep on how successfuly I am at dremel out the @@#$!! tap I broke off in an ex man bolt! bastar$.
M yount - I rem the curtis cam when I was in the c5 z06 scene 10 yrs ago...... will look him up. I do like the idea of a custom proper mated ported heads, and custom cam, valve train..... AND I don't mean Biggest in the catalog.... looking for a good matched setup that sounds stock but pulls hard mid and top........ don't need big peak numbers...... either...... dont' care about dyno sheets...... want to play with my buddies GT3 he just picked up LOL. @ Cota.
G At - don't worry my days of bolting on the biggest lift cam are over..... I was famous for the most mods per slowest et back in the day.... but it 'sounded fast' at idle
.......
project update -
just listed all the bimmer parts on fleabay.... hoping to get some mod $$ for the ls.!!!
just shipped out:
pcu - to wiring spec for start-up tune.
Stainless vorshlag headers to jet-hot for cer coating....
and so the project begins in earnest! wish me and my pocket book luck.
I had a Ford 5.0L in mine before the LS3. Buddy Rawls down in Huntsville, AL did a custom for me. 18" of vacuum at an 800 rpm idle -- didn't sound stock, but idled with just a little more authority. VERY steep ramp rates, the .050" duration numbers weren't all that far from a stock HO cam, although more duration on the exhaust side. But the .06" duration was mild compared to other cams with similar .050" numbers. And a lot more lift than the stocker. 18 mpg around town, 26 on the highway, LOTS of torque all over the rpm range. My buddies used to joke that the torque curve was so flat they could use my car to calibrate the dyno....LOL. All done by 5300 rpm or so --- everything just as I had requested. LOVED that motor. And of course, those numbers don't mean anything in any other combo -- my head/intake/exhaust configuration and flow along with CR were what dictated the valve events. After that experience -- I wouldn't use an off-the-shelf cam --- I'd just go to Ed or Buddy and let them do the modeling first.
Just a couple other things.
I did the 2000 up 330 BMW rotor and caliper upgrade. Left the stock 99 E36 rear rotors. Deleted the ABS. Worked very well. Never felt like I needed the ABS.
Also ran 2.5" from the headers all the way to the back. Magna Flow 2 into two center muffler. Two into two rear muffler. No x-pipe. If I was to do it again I think I would do a center muffler with a built in cross over. I did run dual 2.5" cats. The small oval spun type.
Bilstien shocks all the way around.
3.91 posi was a bit much. First gear with the T56 was basically worthless. Most starts were from second gear.
Running 245-18 tires all around. Rear fender lips need a bit of clearancing.
MY - Yeah most of my hot rodding was from the fox stang days..... strokers, powerdyne, vortec sc, hci combo's.... drag racing. I'm so familiar with that motor. it's fun to learn how to work on the ls platform. It reminds me of when I jumped from kawi to yami on jetski motors.... have to say the LS is more fancy and easier to work on than the fox.... same as yami over kawi. if that makes sense.
You are talking me into custom cam grind. More to come. Would really like to get the heads and cam from same shop but will see.
LS1 TJ - thx will be hitting you all up for options as this build progresses... there are so many options now that the this swap is pretty common and sev companies are pumping out swap parts.
Father-in-law whil'st holding his evening drink - just looked at me in the shop and said " oh boy you have your work cut out for you on this one!"........... should be a fun journey.
IF you want 1-stop head and cam shopping, check out Texas Speed and Performance. They are good at both, and can do a custom cam too I believe. They grind their own, and do all head work (CNC) themselves too. They won't steer you wrong.
gat - will call them tomorrow. Thx. one problem with the lsx platform there are SOOO many damn options....... and soo many vendors. want to do this right for my little HPDE car....... slash fun daily driver.
Just beware anyone whose custom cam doesn’t involve modeling your specific parts....if they’re not trying to get flow numbers from you or if they’re more interested in duration than valve events....ask a lot more questions.
Good progress today, heavy lifting and dirty work done... pulled old motor/trans, degreased engine bay, and p wash engine bay. Time for some tedious prep work, and sort out bolt-ons for the ls.
12-25-2018, 07:06 PM
99 E36 M3 + 2002 Formula 57k Mile Donor Swap 
