cooling issues.. many details.. help me diagnose!
04-24-2008, 10:43 PM
#1
cooling issues.. many details.. help me diagnose! To start off i want you guys to know that my coolant temp sensor for the ls1 pcm is on the passenger side of the block(its suppose to be on the drivers side) and all these temp. measurements are taken off the pcm
when the a/c is off, my jeep will run at 213*. w/ ac ON it will climb up and up slowly- when it gets to about 225 i turn the ac off. THE TEMP NEVER SEES 213 again after that. it does not cool the engine back down even going 60mph (which knocks out the fan being the problem). when i turn the heater on- that does nothing either, if anything it makes the temp get HOTTER
i dont know what thermostat im using right now, its suppose to be a 160* but it doesnt seem to open up until 180*(i can see this because water doesnt start flowing in the radiator until 180*)- i dont know what temp. it opens up at because i bought it from someone and i think they lied about the temp.
im using 50/50 distilled water/coolant. i use to run straight distilled water w/ redlines "water wetter" and that made my engine ran at 205*- the a/c would also cause a climb up in temp w/ this mixture- what i also might add that with the mixture i have now driving w/ the ac off it has been hitting as high as 219*...
soo what do you guys think?... when idling w/ ac off i can feel the ac condenser and its just a little warm, when i turn the ac ON i cant even put my hand on the condenser because its soo damn hot- the condenser is right up against the radiator. could this be my problem? the ac condenser is acting as a heater to the radiator since there is no space inbetween the 2?
i have no problems at all except for this and its really pissing me off lol
when the a/c is off, my jeep will run at 213*. w/ ac ON it will climb up and up slowly- when it gets to about 225 i turn the ac off. THE TEMP NEVER SEES 213 again after that. it does not cool the engine back down even going 60mph (which knocks out the fan being the problem). when i turn the heater on- that does nothing either, if anything it makes the temp get HOTTER
i dont know what thermostat im using right now, its suppose to be a 160* but it doesnt seem to open up until 180*(i can see this because water doesnt start flowing in the radiator until 180*)- i dont know what temp. it opens up at because i bought it from someone and i think they lied about the temp.
im using 50/50 distilled water/coolant. i use to run straight distilled water w/ redlines "water wetter" and that made my engine ran at 205*- the a/c would also cause a climb up in temp w/ this mixture- what i also might add that with the mixture i have now driving w/ the ac off it has been hitting as high as 219*...
soo what do you guys think?... when idling w/ ac off i can feel the ac condenser and its just a little warm, when i turn the ac ON i cant even put my hand on the condenser because its soo damn hot- the condenser is right up against the radiator. could this be my problem? the ac condenser is acting as a heater to the radiator since there is no space inbetween the 2?
i have no problems at all except for this and its really pissing me off lol
04-24-2008, 11:00 PM
#2
You're describing the symptoms of an airlock.
When you filled your coolant, did you do the trick of filling the motor through the upper rad hose? (Disconnect it from the radiator and hold it up to make a (very) high point in the system.)
You can test the thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove and checking it with a cooking thermometer.
PS,
When the thermostat opens, you should see an immediate drop in temp on the TJ. I have an LQ9 in the WTF-J and the same deal as far as the pass. side sending unit.
Good luck.
When you filled your coolant, did you do the trick of filling the motor through the upper rad hose? (Disconnect it from the radiator and hold it up to make a (very) high point in the system.)
You can test the thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove and checking it with a cooking thermometer.
PS,
When the thermostat opens, you should see an immediate drop in temp on the TJ. I have an LQ9 in the WTF-J and the same deal as far as the pass. side sending unit.
Good luck.
Last edited by TomH; 04-24-2008 at 11:05 PM.
04-24-2008, 11:35 PM
#3
You're describing the symptoms of an airlock.
When you filled your coolant, did you do the trick of filling the motor through the upper rad hose? (Disconnect it from the radiator and hold it up to make a (very) high point in the system.)
You can test the thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove and checking it with a cooking thermometer.
PS,
When the thermostat opens, you should see an immediate drop in temp on the TJ. I have an LQ9 in the WTF-J and the same deal as far as the pass. side sending unit.
Good luck.
When you filled your coolant, did you do the trick of filling the motor through the upper rad hose? (Disconnect it from the radiator and hold it up to make a (very) high point in the system.)
You can test the thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove and checking it with a cooking thermometer.
PS,
When the thermostat opens, you should see an immediate drop in temp on the TJ. I have an LQ9 in the WTF-J and the same deal as far as the pass. side sending unit.
Good luck.
as far as thermostat goes, i dont notice at all in difference in temp. it takes FOREVER for the engine to warm up, it stays at 150* for 10minutes, 160*for 10 minutes, 170*-10 minutes and once it gets to 180* the temp start to go up even faster
04-25-2008, 07:32 AM
#4
Hmmmmm!?
First question is how confident are you on your serp belt routing? (The reason I ask is that if the pump is flowing properly, it shouldn't take so long to hit operating temp.) In 10-min, you should be up to full operating temp even sitting at idle.
Also, how confident are you in your temp sending unit setup? In my case, I had to clearance the throat of the adapter to get the probe end of the sending unit into the head. It's working, so no real complaints.
Finished the fan setup yesterday , as I originally thought that the triggers were positive and needed to reverse the relay connections. It comes on right on cue at 190° Speaking of fans, are you confident that yours is wired with the correct polarity?
OK, these may be stupid questions, but I'm guessing you've done the typical stuff.
Good luck!
First question is how confident are you on your serp belt routing? (The reason I ask is that if the pump is flowing properly, it shouldn't take so long to hit operating temp.) In 10-min, you should be up to full operating temp even sitting at idle.
Also, how confident are you in your temp sending unit setup? In my case, I had to clearance the throat of the adapter to get the probe end of the sending unit into the head. It's working, so no real complaints.
Finished the fan setup yesterday , as I originally thought that the triggers were positive and needed to reverse the relay connections. It comes on right on cue at 190° Speaking of fans, are you confident that yours is wired with the correct polarity?
OK, these may be stupid questions, but I'm guessing you've done the typical stuff.
Good luck!
04-25-2008, 10:04 AM
#5
Hmmmmm!?
First question is how confident are you on your serp belt routing? (The reason I ask is that if the pump is flowing properly, it shouldn't take so long to hit operating temp.) In 10-min, you should be up to full operating temp even sitting at idle.
Also, how confident are you in your temp sending unit setup? In my case, I had to clearance the throat of the adapter to get the probe end of the sending unit into the head. It's working, so no real complaints.
Finished the fan setup yesterday , as I originally thought that the triggers were positive and needed to reverse the relay connections. It comes on right on cue at 190° Speaking of fans, are you confident that yours is wired with the correct polarity?
OK, these may be stupid questions, but I'm guessing you've done the typical stuff.
Good luck!
[-011.jpg[/IMG]
First question is how confident are you on your serp belt routing? (The reason I ask is that if the pump is flowing properly, it shouldn't take so long to hit operating temp.) In 10-min, you should be up to full operating temp even sitting at idle.
Also, how confident are you in your temp sending unit setup? In my case, I had to clearance the throat of the adapter to get the probe end of the sending unit into the head. It's working, so no real complaints.
Finished the fan setup yesterday , as I originally thought that the triggers were positive and needed to reverse the relay connections. It comes on right on cue at 190° Speaking of fans, are you confident that yours is wired with the correct polarity?
OK, these may be stupid questions, but I'm guessing you've done the typical stuff.
Good luck!
[-011.jpg[/IMG]
im using the ls1 sending unit soo it gets the proper reading it suppose to, i have an aeroforce intercepter soo i can see the exact temperature the pcm is seeing
my fan is on the engine side and is a puller, soo polarity is set up right. i dont think its an issue of air- if it was an issue of air then the temp. would go down when i drive it past 30mph
04-25-2008, 11:25 AM
#7
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I'll tell you what the problem is. The heater hoses MUST pass coolant constantly so proper coolant circulation happens. If you are using a shut-off valve in your heater hose it MUST BE OPEN ALL OF THE TIME. Sorry for the caps. I'm just trying to get my point across. All LS engines have a "bypass" heater shut-off valve. I think a Ford Ranger V6 or GTO valve will work but are vacuum operated. Pull the heater hoses OFF the water pump and run a piece of heater hose shaped in a "U" to the input/output and try it again.
My 5.3 warms up in 5 minutes and will idle 30 mins before the fan comes on with a small radiator.
My 5.3 warms up in 5 minutes and will idle 30 mins before the fan comes on with a small radiator.
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04-25-2008, 06:58 PM
#8
I'll tell you what the problem is. The heater hoses MUST pass coolant constantly so proper coolant circulation happens. If you are using a shut-off valve in your heater hose it MUST BE OPEN ALL OF THE TIME. Sorry for the caps. I'm just trying to get my point across. All LS engines have a "bypass" heater shut-off valve. I think a Ford Ranger V6 or GTO valve will work but are vacuum operated. Pull the heater hoses OFF the water pump and run a piece of heater hose shaped in a "U" to the input/output and try it again.
My 5.3 warms up in 5 minutes and will idle 30 mins before the fan comes on with a small radiator.
My 5.3 warms up in 5 minutes and will idle 30 mins before the fan comes on with a small radiator.
philntx- i will get a picture up as soon as i get home of my set up, im using a chevy/jeep conversion radiator made for high horsepower- the people i bought it from said that the radiator is if anything over kill for the ls1 engine and it should cool the engine down fine www.extremeradiator.com is the company
04-28-2008, 01:09 PM
#11
well i took out the 50/50 mixture, took my t-stat out and did the stove test on it found that it starts opening at 165 and is fully open at 185-- i dont know if that means its a 160 stat or a 180 still lol
i then added mostly water w/ about 25% or less coolant and rigged up this to where once air bubbles leave the system coolant immediatly replaces its spot
now i dont get hotter than 185*, but also its been really cool outside soo im still not sure if that did the trick or not
i then added mostly water w/ about 25% or less coolant and rigged up this to where once air bubbles leave the system coolant immediatly replaces its spot
now i dont get hotter than 185*, but also its been really cool outside soo im still not sure if that did the trick or not
04-28-2008, 02:51 PM
#14
alright, i moved the radiator a little further away from the a/c condenser and now the temp does not rise, except for about 5degrees, when the AC is on- NICE!
and the temp does not go over 190 w/ ac off soo it must not have been enough water in the coolant or air bubbles that i got out with my little funnel
and the temp does not go over 190 w/ ac off soo it must not have been enough water in the coolant or air bubbles that i got out with my little funnel