94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

Just thought I would share some pictures with everyone of a swap I am doing. Hopefully this will help out some of the other people thinking and planning the same type of swap. We are using a 1991 GT 5.0L/5spd. car with just over 100k on the clock. The engine is a stock 2005 LQ4 short block with L92 heads and L76 intake. We will be using an AJE K-member and Kook's stainless swap headers. The T56 6 speed will be mated to the 6.0l using Mcleod's modular bellhousing and we will retain factory Fbody hydraulics. We are planning on taking this on Power Tour 2008 if everything goes well, so anyone who goes, feel free to hunt us down and look it over.

THE VICTIM: 1991 Mustang GT 5.0L 5spd. used to be red, now its "bass tracker black"


SHORT BLOCK DONOR: 68K MILE 2005 LQ4 OUT OF 2005 SILVERADO 2500HD





L92 HEADS: GM Factory components. D-shaped exhaust ports, new rectangular design intake port, 70cc combustion chamber, 2.160"/1.590" valves

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

Here are some of the parts I am using.

BMR tubular Kmember



Kook's stainless Fox body swap headers



Mcleod modular bellhousing



More of the L92 heads



The Kooks headers are some of the nicest headers I have ever worked with. They are definately worth every penny spent and every day that we waited for them. We had to do some small modifications to the K-member. Once we installed the mock engine and transmission, we noticed one of the header tubes was touching the control arm mount area on the rear of the passenger side control arm.




Modification



I definately recommed that anyone planning on doing this swap get a junk or bare LS block and mock up all of their assembly before dropping in the finished engine. It makes it really easy (especially if you use an aluminum block) to pull the engine out for modifications to the car.

Fitting/mockup

jw33

iTrader: (8)

So they do make those headers in stainless... I called and sent several e-mails to them last year when they first came out with the headers and I kept getting blown off so I decided against using them. They look good though.

knute_gis

Thats a cool project!

I have a 1990 Mustang LX, I was thinking about the same kind of setup.

How does the shifter line up, did you have to modify the tunnel?

Heres my project...

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...-progress.html

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

Yes, they show it right on the Kook's website. I didn't know about it untill I was playing around on there and saw that it was an extra $275. I thought that was pretty cheap and with the humidity we have here a mild steel pair would be short lived.

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

The shifter lines up alot better than I thought it would. The factory hole had to be cut about an inch and a half towards the rear of the car. The tunnel didn't really have to be modified much. I had to clearance it for the reverse lockout solenoid and the skipshift solenoid, but that took about 2 minutes.

BTW: Your truck project looks fun!

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

Here's the modifications to the factory 5 speed pedals required when using stock Fbody hydraulics.
Stock pedal assembly







Crossmember modification





I had to move the crossmember mounts back about 4" towards the rear. The brackets are spotwelded to the floor from the factory. A couple of hours of spot weld cutting and we were ready for fitment.

Shifter hole alignment

can'tfindausername

iTrader: (2)

I'm actually doing the same thing as we speak. Good pics, you've given me some ideas and I will have some more questions for you if you don't mind

Kris

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

It's time to freshen up the engine compartment.

Before




After

72Elkytpi

iTrader: (47)

Can you explain more about the pedal modifications you did. Im not following why this is needed.
thanks

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

The pedal modifications were required when converting to a '98-'02 F-body hydraulic setup. The stock Mustang pedals use a cable and quadrant actuated clutch fork (as shown in the first picture). The aluminum half moon piece in the first picture is part of the old BBK adjustable clutch quadrant. This assembly was removed and the next photo shows were a arm was welded to the right side of the shaft that travels through the pedal assembly from the clutch pedal. The clutch master cylinder will mount right above the steering column and pass through the steering column to firewall boot. I'll try to post some pictures of the master cylinder mounting later.

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

Here's the T-56 we will be using for this build. Nothing special, just a stock '98-'02 Fbody unit.



We got a decent amount of work done on Friday and Saturday. It is comming along nicely and all of the work mocking up the drive train is really paying off-everything goes together so much quicker when you already know it's gonna fit!

Engine installed



Had to modify the back of the oil pan for the Mcleod block plate to sit flush.

Before


After


Block plate and flywheel installed


We had to make a 3/16" shim for behind the slave cylinder assembly out of plate aluminum to compensate for the 3/16" the block plate takes up.


Here's a little issue Mcleod didn't think of. The bleeder screw for the slave cylinder contacts the bellhousing before the transmission is brought up against the bellhousing.


So, it was time for some more modifying. We cut a 1/2" section out to allow plenty of room for tools and accessing the bleeder.


Transmission, clutch, pressure plate and bellhousing installed


Time to layout the wiring! I am pretty sure this is the part where most projects like these get clucked off. I hope someone knows where all this wiring goes! Just kidding.

Crossupbill

What oil pan you using? You may have posted it but I may have missed it. How about ground clearance?

04BlueSS

iTrader: (10)

Is that tranny tailshaft a little off centerline or is it just because the angle the picture was taken at?

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

The oil pan currently on the 6.0L is an Fbody pan. It sits about even with the K-member and the rack. It should be just about perfect and will hopefully clear most road debris!

Here's a closer picture of the Fbody pan and K-member





Our original mock-up assembly had the factory 6.0L LQ4 truck pan on it. It is pretty obvious from the pictures below that it was not going to be something we would want to drive on the street with this pan!

94Firehawk161

iTrader: (7)

I know, it looks wierd doesn't it? It got me at first, too. When I put the cross member in I thought what the hell. Then I realized engine had not been moved over yet. The AJE mounts have a decent amount of adjustment side to side and it was all the way over to the left in that picture.

tiresmokinV8

iTrader: (6)

Any updates?

magic

iTrader: (4)

Yes +1 on Updates!! ??

72Elkytpi

iTrader: (47)

Nice write up guys. It really helps me get the visual for my plan of attack. I dont want to pay kooks for their gold plated headers though. Are there any other options using mustang 351 swap headers...?

magic

iTrader: (4)

There are a few guys that have used some 351W swap headers......There was also one guy who managed to use some GTO headers?? Im trying to find more info on this myself....