FOG

I am doing the swap into a 92 Z-28 auto. Using 4th Gen pedals.

Did a search but couldn't find the answers.

Looking at the firewall and how the clutch master cyinder connects to the clutch pedal I come up with a couple of possible options. The issue is complicated by the angle for the firewall mount and master cylinder itself.

I am thinking either directly above or below brake booster bracket inline with the either of the outboard bolts. The last possibility is maybe approx. 2 o'clock, when viewed from the front.

I am concerned about the leverage ratios in either above or below and angular wear from the 2 o'clock poition.

Appreciate pictures as well.

S/F, FOG

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Why don't you use these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-92...QQcmdZViewItem

FOG

Talked to Hawks 3rd Gen and they recommended the 4th Gen pedals and modify (cut off accelerator and open up upper booster holes). Only problem is Hawks has not been answering this question though I’ve called five times and left message since Monday.

Still looking for an answer on the firewall angle and leverage ratio of top vice bottom mounting.

S/F, FOG

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Everyone always says to use the 4th gen pedals and cut off the gas pedal. I don't understand why. I used the 4th gen pedals and they bolted (almost) right up. All I had to do was drill a hole for the gas pedal bolt (1 was in the correct location). As far as the clutch master goes, when you bolt up the pedals all you have to do is elongate the holes a touch and shim the bolts a little. Mine went in with no issues.

FOG

Fast,

Appreciate the response. My car started as an auto, I had expected to follow the path of a hole in the firewall for mechanical linkage but there is no hole.

Taking a look it looks like either above or below the brake bracket outboard bolts is the best solution. The two positions have different pedal throw master cylinder stroke results plus mounting solutions.

The question is which is the better solution?

S/F, FOG

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Mine started as an auto also. My new GM master came with a gasket where it bolts to the car. I used that and made a template out of cardboard. Bolted the pedal assembly to the car, only using the brake booster bolts. Then I used the cardboard template and slid it under the pedal assembly bracket for the clutch master, with the bolt holes lined up. Drilled the two mount holes, then used a hole saw for the master body (I made this a little larger than I needed to allow for adjustment). Then I just elongated the mount holes so I could move the master to get the angle right.

FOG

Fast,

Decided to cut off the bracket on the 4th Gen pedals for clutch MC where it makes the dog leg to allow the pedals to bolt all the way to the firewall. It was close but no cigar and looked to be about 1/2'” off.

The plan is to re-position the bracket on the firewall and reweld. Unfortunately my MIG welder’s wire feed died while setting the feed rate on some scrap (the gas pedal). I’ll let you know how it goes.

S/F, FOG

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Not everyone says to use 4th gen pedals with a 3rd gen... I used 4th gen pedals on my 87 and had issues. First, that support bracket for the clutch M/C just doesnt fit the firewall very well, and also, it doesnt give as much support as the 3rd gen pedal set does. My firewall would flex like crazy when pushing the clutch. Now I had a SPEC clutch, and the pedal was heavy compared to stock. So maybe thats what did it...

Anyway, the 3rd gen pedals bolt up 100% no issues. The 4th gen gas pedal just isnt needed. 3rd gen pedal works perfectly. The only issue with the 3rd gen pedals, is the stud that the clutch master rod attaches to. The 3rd gen stud is a good bit bigger than the 4th gen. So you have to drill the bushing out on the rod. Or swap the studs (grind out studs, weld 4th gen stud into 3rd gen pedals..which is what i did this time).

So far, the 3rd gen pedal set is proving to work MUCH better for me than the 4th gen set did. The two braces that give support to the clutch master cylinder are much more solid and they really tie everything together.

Just my opinion on the 4th vs. 3rd gen thing.

If you cut the support bracket off the 4th gen set, and re-weld it after the master is mounted, then you might be doing ok though... I was going to do that this time around but ended up not using the 4th gen set... Getting the master cylinder lined up properly is the biggest pain. Anyone that says its sooo easy either got lucky with placement, or didnt get it perfectly straight. haha. I was able to get mine pretty close, but I still had to mess with one of the holes a good bit to get it close. Ide still have to tweak it some in order to make it perfectly straight, but Im going to run it for now. If it fails...it fails. Ill replace it later.

J.

Brads454

I just used the 3rd gen clutch/brake pedals and the 4th gen gas pedal (installed it and bent it till I got WOT) For the clutch connection I didn't use the factory plastic round bushing. I used a clip instead to secure the pedal from coming out of the master.

FOG

Ghetto,

Well the MIG welder died over the weekend right after I finished setting up on the scrap pieces. Won’t be fixed until after leave so…

Using a LS 7 clutch and trying to keep the 4th Gen geometry on the clutch MC. I made a couple of pieces to check on the geometry and will tack/test fit to try and make sure it is the same.

I understand that some using the 3rd Gen set-up end with clutch MC issues (longevity, etc.) and am trying to minimize future problems.

S/F, FOG