CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

Im doing my first Tremec TKO 600 behind a LS motor....

Ive got the adapter pilot bearing in the back of the crank, repro-"621" muncie bellhousing, tremec tko 600...., factory LS1 clutch/flywheel

It all bolts together with no problem THEN

I got a factory mechanical linkage kit that i was told would work for this:
I bolted it all up the clutch fork/pivot ball/throwout bearing etc and the clutch fork and it doesnt align in the center at all and the throwout bearing sits about 1" away from the pressure plate when its at the correct angle for where it should sit.

I attached pictures to give an idea.

Does anyone know where to get the correct clutch fork/throwout for using factory ls1 clutch/flywheel with this setup?

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

Looks as if you need a different fork. I almost did this in my Chevelle instead of the hydraulic. What brand of bellhousing and fork?

Also just for my reference was there an allignment dowel for the flywheel on the rear crankshaft flange? Or did you just line up the hole on the flywheel with the hole on the crank shaft?

SurlyJoe

I have this setup in my car. I used a factory 2nd gen clutch fork. It lines up fine. That fork just doesn't look right to me. But the other problem is that there is .4" of extra space as in the flywheel face is .4" further in on the ls1. So there are few ways to get around this. Apparently mcleod now has a flywheel which is offset the .4". I used a thicker throwout bearing. You also use an adjustable ball stud I guess. If I was to do it again I would use the different flywheel but I did not know about it at the time. With the thicker bearing all my angles are good and bearing is centered.

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

I looked at the picture again. The T/O bearing is supposed to rest on the two fingers of the fork, not pushed all the way into the fork. That should line you up. Do that and take a picture.

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

There is no alignment dowel, but it is lined up with hole in the crank. Flywheel is on correctly.

I agree that i believed it needed a different fork, after Fortes (tremec parts place) believed they sent me the wrong fork and sent me out another one, it appears its the exact same fork....

So if i need to source one myself then should i just get a factory muncie clutch fork?

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

I'll try that, seemed to me that it wasnt seated right if it was out farther...




Does anyone know part # or where to order thicker throw out bearing OR a .4" longer adjustable pivot ball?

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

Also don't put the throw out bearing underneath the black tabs on the fork. Make sure you double check with your vendor on this but I am pretty sure those two things will set you up.

Also don't forget the pilot bushing. (in my first manual swap I never knew you needed one.)

Ben-

SurlyJoe

summit has an adjustable throwout bearing. not sure on pn. they also have the adjustable ball stud. Local supplier might carry them also. They are mcleod parts. My mechanic buddy just happened to have one so I never had to order.

Hotrod406

iTrader: (6)

I used an adjustable ball stud on my Corvette. It's adjusted as far out as I dare and it is just barely enough. I'm running an aluminum LS7 flywheel and LS7 clutch with the factory Muncie 4 speed. I have a Lakewood explosion proof bellhousing made for conversions. The depth is the same as a regular one, it's not .400 shallower

Novas Forever

I used an old style 'long' throwout bearing and an adjustable ball stud to get my Muncie setup correctly. Your clutch fork is fine. The bearing rides out on the fingers.

Hotrod406

iTrader: (6)

I believe that is what my Corvette uses as well.

ineedatruck

could someone pm the parts list needed to put a tko600 behind the ls motor

i dont wanna mess with hydraulics in my conversion and the tko i have came out of a mustang just like mine would be a really easy swap as long as someone makes the bellhouston fly wheel etc parts

if anyone has the info pm me pleaes id highly appreciate it

jeepinpete

Take a look here: link

About half way down there is a chart of the various interchangable GM throw out bearings. If you are using the standard Chevy part, you are using the N 4068.

ls1a9x

you have not got bearing in right it dose line up mate you have pushed bearing in to far but i would go internal hydraulic puts even pressure on pressure plate and you can shim bearing in or out

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I agree with 70-cloned, the TO Bearing should be setting on the fingers in the middle of the Bearning, not seated all the way against the fork as you have it.

Try removing the Bellhousing, leave the fork and TO Bearing in place in the bell housng, then mock up by mounting the Trans to the bell housing.. and you will see how well the fork and Throw out bearing lines up on the Input shaft and Bearing Retainer. Also get an Adjustable ball stud and measure and adjust the stud.

wrea398

HAd same issue. Adjustable ball stud and correct TOB fixed it.

shoeboxvette

iTrader: (6)

Get your clutch alignment tool put it through the throw out bearing. The bearing should rest on the fingers near center of bearing. Not how pic show its way too deep in fork.

TableLeg

CalSpeedPerformance,

Did you ever get this resolved?

I am in the same situation so would appreciate any help with what fork and pivot you used.