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EDIT: Thought I'd ask a question that I've had in the back of my mind for the last several days - I'm pretty much sold on the Comp Cams trunnion upgrade for rocker arms, but so far I haven't seen the need to buy a shop press. I've heard of people doing that swap using a bench vise, & even a C-clamp. My question is, will a bench vise work OK for that?? Thanks guys.
Decided to see if I could get an answer on my own:
I don't know that that's definitive, but it definitely argues against the use of a simple C-clamp...
Outstanding, thank you!! I hadn't run across that before. (Although $50 seems a little bit steep for what it contains, & the fact that it's a single-purpose tool...)
Originally Posted by five7kid
Depends upon the C-clamp...
I haven't done mine yet. I do need an excuse for buying a press, though.
(Can you say, "20% off Harbor Freight coupon"?)
Heh - great minds think alike, I guess! I've considered that for a good while now - and if I had a large "shop area" rather than just an ordinary garage, I'd probably already have one. But as things are right now, I just don't have the space for one.
[QUOTE=V8Rumble;18402938]Outstanding, thank you!! I hadn't run across that before. (Although $50 seems a little bit steep for what it contains, & the fact that it's a single-purpose tool...)
No problem. I don't post a lot unless I see something I can help with. I'd imagine he same could be accomplished with the washers that come in the kit and the appropriate size sockets.
Outstanding, thank you!! I hadn't run across that before. (Although $50 seems a little bit steep for what it contains, & the fact that it's a single-purpose tool...)
No problem. I don't post a lot unless I see something I can help with. I'd imagine he same could be accomplished with the washers that come in the kit and the appropriate size sockets.
Edit - Here's a video showing what I mentioned
Excellent, thank you again! (I hadn't checked back on this thread until just now.) I'll probably order the trunion upgrade kit this week.
OK, so I'm getting ready to run out to the garage & get a bit of work done, & I've realized that ONE of the incomplete items on the list is to get the battery voltage from the rear (where the battery's mounted) to the starter/alternator/fuses, etc. I've been doing a fair bit of searching & (from the little bit that I know on the subject) this appears to be a reasonable diagram for that - can anyone confirm that this is a good way to run the electrical??
FWIW, I'm using a 4-post kill switch, just in case that has any bearing on the answer...
I'm thinking that that's something that I could get (at least mostly) completed this weekend, & give myself at least a little bit of a feeling that I'd accomplished something, instead of merely "making progress" on something else...
(I'm actually giving serious thought to running the large ground wire to the engine block. I know that it's not strictly necessary, but I think I'd feel better about it. I have a couple of good ground straps going from the engine block to the chassis as well.)
The only thing that I'm not seeing here is how/where to insert the interrupt switch so that the starter runs only when the clutch is pushed down... (I'd think that it would need to be a 'normally-open' switch, & go upstream of the starter solenoid.)
Does this seem like a reasonable configuration?? Anything missing, or misplaced??
I've thought of a couple of other questions in addition to the ones above -
First, what's labeled as the "positive junction box" - that's just a long name for the under-hood fuse box, correct? (If not, then I'm not sure what it would be.)
Second, if that isn't the fuse box, then for the line going from the starter to the "positive junction box" - does anyone put a fuse in-line with that (and if so, what rating would be appropriate)?
And finally - does anyone have any feedback on my last post, just above??
Well, given the fact that I'm hoping to take part in some serious open-road and road-course events, and since the engine is (at least temporarily) out of the car again, I figured there's no better time to install the Improved Racing Oil Pan Baffle that I've just ordered... I spent a bit of time doing research today, & from virtually everything I've read, it seems like (relatively) cheap insurance for your engine if you like to experience high G's in the lateral plane, not just in a straight line...
Pretty stoked tonight - I had a friend stop by who's completed an LS swap in a third-generation F-body, & I was able to get a look at the way that he solved some of the issues, & get answers to at least three or four of the questions that I've been puzzling over - and as if that wasn't enough, he also surprised me by offering to help me with it for a couple hours.
Of course I jumped on that offer, & with his two hands on the other side of the firewall, I was able to get the clutch master cylinder installed!!
And now that that's in, I probably have only one other item that I want to get taken care of before I drop the engine back in the car & start bolting everything back together again. (Come to think of it, getting to ride in his car was a nice little motivator too...) And now that I know how he's solved some of those issues, I'm anticipating that I'll be able to make some serious progress after the first of the year...
I've thought of a couple of other questions in addition to the ones above -
First, what's labeled as the "positive junction box" - that's just a long name for the under-hood fuse box, correct? (If not, then I'm not sure what it would be.)
Second, if that isn't the fuse box, then for the line going from the starter to the "positive junction box" - does anyone put a fuse in-line with that (and if so, what rating would be appropriate)?
And finally - does anyone have any feedback on my last post, just above??
Thanks.
Your kill switch diagram looks good
Power junction box is what I call a power distribution block aka where all the big power cables meet up. Your fuseblock needs to get power from this along with anything else that takes 12v constant. 3rd gens had a small one near the battery on some models but all used the starter battery cable lug as a junction. Dont you remember all those fusible links down there?
For my harnesses, I incorporate a S10 power dist block found on mid-late 90's trucks. Its essentially a nylon block with several steel studs all connected, plus it has a beauty cover. Add an extra system that needs power? Simple put a ring on it and bolt it on
08-31-2014, 11:25 PM
I hadn't run across that before. (Although $50 seems a little bit steep for what it contains, & the fact that it's a single-purpose tool...)
I've considered that for a good while now - and if I had a large "shop area" rather than just an ordinary garage, I'd probably already have one. But as things are right now, I just don't have the space for one. 
Yeah, that's a good idea, I'll have to ask around... 
(I hadn't checked back on this thread until just now.) I'll probably order the trunion upgrade kit this week. 
Anything missing, or misplaced??
