LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
10-14-2008, 11:26 PM
#41
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Hmm this is a really good suggestion, thanks! I believe I remember it being a red one, but now that memory is a bit fuzzy, did they even come in a red color? Are the new blue ones only larger in diameter than the "old" ones, or do they have a bigger ring thickness as well?
My thought at the time that there is only one LS o-ring size, so maybe get two and stack them, because it's not a tiny bit of play, there's actually quite a lot.
Next time I'm in town I will measure the inner and outer diameters of the pump/tube as well as the o-ring dia. and thickness to see if it 1) comes close to fitting diameter-wise, and 2) if two o-rings will be too thick to fit in stacked.
Any of this make sense? This is all confusing because this is supposedly a stock engine, so how would any of this worked before?
My thought at the time that there is only one LS o-ring size, so maybe get two and stack them, because it's not a tiny bit of play, there's actually quite a lot.
Next time I'm in town I will measure the inner and outer diameters of the pump/tube as well as the o-ring dia. and thickness to see if it 1) comes close to fitting diameter-wise, and 2) if two o-rings will be too thick to fit in stacked.
Any of this make sense? This is all confusing because this is supposedly a stock engine, so how would any of this worked before?
I believe I have seen one in a orangeish reddish color but I do know that all of the new LS series rings are a dark blue color and they are thicker than the original ones. Stop by a dealer and pick one up for a 2005 LS2 such as a GTO or vette. They may charge you $5 but it's worth it insteaf of blowing the engine.
10-15-2008, 12:37 PM
#42
Sure thing I'm going to go pick up two new o-rings. I really hope that an LS2 one does end up fitting, if not I'll test the two-stacked idea.
What's up with the prices of fittings? Aeroquip fittings in the range of $30-40? Seriously?? This is the cheapest one I could find, and it STILL came in anodized blue
oh well, not for long..
Here's a shot of the interior, revamping it was the only time I slipped up on my vow to do only mechanical and nothing cosmetic..
And does anyone know what causes this corrosion? This is the 3rd mirror that's ended up like this, I thought rock chips.. but that many? Maybe it has something to do with our west coast air..
What's up with the prices of fittings? Aeroquip fittings in the range of $30-40? Seriously?? This is the cheapest one I could find, and it STILL came in anodized blue
oh well, not for long..Here's a shot of the interior, revamping it was the only time I slipped up on my vow to do only mechanical and nothing cosmetic..
And does anyone know what causes this corrosion? This is the 3rd mirror that's ended up like this, I thought rock chips.. but that many? Maybe it has something to do with our west coast air..
Last edited by frojoe; 10-16-2008 at 11:42 AM.
10-15-2008, 12:42 PM
#43
Again, a flywheel spacer is NOT required for the flat truck 6.0L flywheel, but it should be needed for the wavy truck 5.3L flexplate.
Anyways, I didn't find that tidbit of info until this was already ordered and on it's way, but this is what the spacer looks like...
Anyways, I didn't find that tidbit of info until this was already ordered and on it's way, but this is what the spacer looks like...
Last edited by frojoe; 06-03-2009 at 01:37 PM.
10-16-2008, 11:50 AM
#44
I spent a lot of time looking for a 10spoke-style modern rims but I was afraid that most the ones I was finding had spokes which were too thin and maybe not so "muscular" looking. I also was dead set on black centers with chrome lips, but these Axis Penta rims I found have pretty thick/beefy looking spokes and the grey center are almost a dead-nuts match for my grey rally stripes, I think they turned out quite well 
Rims are Axis Penta 18" x 8" all round with 40mm backspacing and 1.25" spacer in front, and 35mm backspacing and 1" spacer in rear.
Tires are 235/45/18 in the front and 275/40/18 in the rear with zero mods needed to fit a pretty beefy looking tire in the rear...
Rims are Axis Penta 18" x 8" all round with 40mm backspacing and 1.25" spacer in front, and 35mm backspacing and 1" spacer in rear.
Tires are 235/45/18 in the front and 275/40/18 in the rear with zero mods needed to fit a pretty beefy looking tire in the rear...
Last edited by frojoe; 03-26-2009 at 01:20 AM.
10-16-2008, 12:26 PM
#45
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I spent a lot of time looking for a 10spoke-style modern rims but I was afraid that most the ones I was finding had spokes which were too thin and maybe not so "muscular" looking. I also was dead set on black centers with chrome lips, but these Axis Penta rims I found have pretty thick/beefy looking spokes and the grey center are almost a dead-nuts match for my grey rally stripes, I think they turned out quite well
Rims are Axis Penta 18" x 8" all round with 40mm backspacing and 1" spacer in front, and 35mm backspacing and 0.75" spacer in rear.
Tires are 235/45/18 in the front and 275/40/18 in the rear with zero mods needed to fit a pretty beefy looking tire in the rear...
Rims are Axis Penta 18" x 8" all round with 40mm backspacing and 1" spacer in front, and 35mm backspacing and 0.75" spacer in rear.
Tires are 235/45/18 in the front and 275/40/18 in the rear with zero mods needed to fit a pretty beefy looking tire in the rear...
I have the exact same wheels but with light grey centers sold as the "VOXX" brand.
10-24-2008, 01:50 AM
#48
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good thread...is there a pan out there that would fit with out the modifications that you've had to do? i know there is alot of stuff out there but just wanted to see if you had the money what would you have bought to drop right in?
10-24-2008, 02:09 AM
#49
Hmm the ATS pan is really nice but still requires an external oil filter.
Other than that I don't know that much about 1st gen swap-friendly pans.
The stock pan that would require the least amount of mod'ing would probably be a notched f-body pan.
... but it's best to read the huge oil pan-comparo threads, I was kind of stubborn and just went right to mod'ing what I already had!
btw strtlegal... SICK nova you've got there!!!
Other than that I don't know that much about 1st gen swap-friendly pans.
The stock pan that would require the least amount of mod'ing would probably be a notched f-body pan.
... but it's best to read the huge oil pan-comparo threads, I was kind of stubborn and just went right to mod'ing what I already had!
btw strtlegal... SICK nova you've got there!!!
10-24-2008, 11:58 AM
#50
strtlegal... you're going LSx now too? What trans are you planning to run?
btw, Eckler's Classic Chevy sells an oil pan kit for $230 (on sale!) that they *CLAIM* clears stock Nova/Camaro steering linkages and all that mess. Here's a link.
btw, Eckler's Classic Chevy sells an oil pan kit for $230 (on sale!) that they *CLAIM* clears stock Nova/Camaro steering linkages and all that mess. Here's a link.
10-24-2008, 07:06 PM
#51
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its funny ive kind have been on the fence about putting an ls in my car, ive got a brand new stroker in my car and im just sick of messing with these old school motors and carbs. ive been having fuel issues for quit some time now and since i love to drive my car and fuel quality is not what it used to be, its time to be more modern. i want to get in and drive, tired of being a mechanic...
i just ordered my ls2 long block disassembled from brown and brown chevrolet for $3,700.00. so ill be on these boards a little more often.
as far as a tran's is concerned is have a t56 out of a 99 viper that a bearing weant bye bye on. i want to try and use it since it was free however everyone from classic five speed to kiesler say the shifter location and clutch parts are different, even the guys at ATS say the samething. so at this point im on the fence, knowing me ill come across something that i caint pass up thats a smoking deal. im hoping its a stick but if not a 700 will probably be a decent choice.
i just ordered my ls2 long block disassembled from brown and brown chevrolet for $3,700.00. so ill be on these boards a little more often.
as far as a tran's is concerned is have a t56 out of a 99 viper that a bearing weant bye bye on. i want to try and use it since it was free however everyone from classic five speed to kiesler say the shifter location and clutch parts are different, even the guys at ATS say the samething. so at this point im on the fence, knowing me ill come across something that i caint pass up thats a smoking deal. im hoping its a stick but if not a 700 will probably be a decent choice.
10-24-2008, 09:49 PM
#52
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btw, Eckler's Classic Chevy sells an oil pan kit for $230 (on sale!) that they *CLAIM* clears stock Nova/Camaro steering linkages and all that mess. Here's a link.
10-25-2008, 12:30 AM
#54
Yeah, from what I recall of a comparo to a the stock truck pan, the LH8 offers barely more ground clearance, so it confuses me why it seems to be the hot new item...
Truck pan:
LH8:
Arhg. Well I guess to each their own. Maybe I should post a link to www.pro-touring.com or www.lateral-g.net to give the look of my car a bit more cred? But thanks for the kudos on the rest of the car, the paint is a bit nicer on camera than in person.. oh well!
Truck pan:
LH8:
Arhg. Well I guess to each their own. Maybe I should post a link to www.pro-touring.com or www.lateral-g.net to give the look of my car a bit more cred? But thanks for the kudos on the rest of the car, the paint is a bit nicer on camera than in person.. oh well!
10-25-2008, 01:11 AM
#55
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okay slow down...whats an lh8 pan? lol
i was looking at another 3rd gen nova ls2 swap thread on pro touring and there was talks about the pan hitting the centerlinks on the steering. does this pan have this issue?
and the motor mounts? or is this a list i should be calling ATS for?
thanks
i was looking at another 3rd gen nova ls2 swap thread on pro touring and there was talks about the pan hitting the centerlinks on the steering. does this pan have this issue?
and the motor mounts? or is this a list i should be calling ATS for?
thanks
10-25-2008, 04:00 PM
#56
okay slow down...whats an lh8 pan? lol
i was looking at another 3rd gen nova ls2 swap thread on pro touring and there was talks about the pan hitting the centerlinks on the steering. does this pan have this issue?
and the motor mounts? or is this a list i should be calling ATS for?
thanks
i was looking at another 3rd gen nova ls2 swap thread on pro touring and there was talks about the pan hitting the centerlinks on the steering. does this pan have this issue?
and the motor mounts? or is this a list i should be calling ATS for?
thanks
Which pan are you unsure of drag link clearance issues, the LH8 one? It should have plenty of room, because it's sump is 8.5" long as opposed to the truck one with is 9.75" long, and the truck one clears my steering even though my engine is moved forward approx. 1 inch.
ATS motor mounts are really nice billet peices (for $140)..
and S&P/Carshop ones are identical, but much more inexpensive!...
All 3 of those put the engine in the same place. I believe the Hooker ones put it forward a little bit more..
10-25-2008, 06:16 PM
#57
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i was reading this..im not to concerned yet because i do have a rack and pinion on my car but i want to switch back to a lee box here sometime..
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...dy+pan+fits%27
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...dy+pan+fits%27
10-25-2008, 07:04 PM
#58
Hmm from what I recall there's more than that amount of clearance on my car with a truck pan, and I definitely didn't do anything special or at all to do that, just used the Carshop/S&P mounts! Next time I'm back home I will take pictures for you of the steering locked in both directions...
10-25-2008, 11:32 PM
#59
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no problem..im not there yet.
what would you recommend for headers? i didnt understand what you did. did you just weld on some ls style flanges to gen1 headers?
what would you recommend for headers? i didnt understand what you did. did you just weld on some ls style flanges to gen1 headers?
10-26-2008, 12:20 AM
#60
Header-wise, Kooks make the really pretty ceramic coated ones, as well as several other companies. Hooker makes some but recommend that you use their mount mount adapters in order to properly fit around the steering box; I've heard mixed stories of these headers fitting with non-Hooker motor mounts. $5-600 seems to be par for decent ceramic coated headers that fit this conversion, but that doesn't guarantee that they won't need some BFH "clearancing" around the steering box.
Yes, that's the simple explanation of what I did. The overall spacing between the front and rear exhaust ports was close, but not close enough to just bend the tubes. Also, the difference between siamesed middle ports and equally spaced ports was too big to heat and bend. I ended up cutting off all the primaries from both headers except for the rear tubes, and swapped some of the tubes around until they fit closer overall, then chopped and sectioned my way bit by bit until each tube fit and on the driver's side they all fit around the steering box.
It sucked. But I was stubborn and cheap, and the majority of it only took me all of one complete weekend.
Yes, that's the simple explanation of what I did. The overall spacing between the front and rear exhaust ports was close, but not close enough to just bend the tubes. Also, the difference between siamesed middle ports and equally spaced ports was too big to heat and bend. I ended up cutting off all the primaries from both headers except for the rear tubes, and swapped some of the tubes around until they fit closer overall, then chopped and sectioned my way bit by bit until each tube fit and on the driver's side they all fit around the steering box.
It sucked. But I was stubborn and cheap, and the majority of it only took me all of one complete weekend.