frojoe

iTrader: (10)

In the end it did add up to a bit more than I was hoping, but oh well. $1500 for Dominator ECU, $300 for the main harness, $100 for injector sub harness, $100 for DBW sub harness, $100 for Holley-specific WB sensor, $100 for boost solenoid, $100 for boost sensor. I could've fiddled and pinned in my existing Innovate standalone WB controller, and fiddled/coded my Speedhut boost sensor to work with the ECU to save some money, but in the end I decided I didn't want to introduce potential errors with custom settings for WB and boost control, and potentially compromise the precision of the system for the sake of saving $200, since the whole reason I shelled out all this cash for a new setup was for a pre-configured "happy" whole system.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

So you decided while you're tuning you may as well tune for a new bumpstick? Is this thing running yet?

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Tuning-wise.. yes. I've been slammed at work, been doing 10-12, 12+ hour days, weekends, only been able to get to the garage once in the last 3 or so weeks. Two week work trip coming up too. When I get back I'm going to take a couple days off work and just do full garage days, I'm starting to lose my marbles not being able to wrench and be "at peace" in the garage..

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Exactly how I feel!

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Made it to Asia and back without pulling a 370, so wrapped up (literally) the harness tonight. If I have enough energy tomorrow night might go and install it so I can mock up Holley ECU holding bracket. Either way I'll be in the garage on Saturday doing the cam swap and rad install.

Happy to have all the plugs at their neat & proper minimum required lengths and branch locations. Other than running out of big-diameter loom, almost looks like it came this way..

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Good to see your back on the project.. Harness look like it is coming along well..

BC

kilacam305

your harness is coming alone well I need to start on mine sometime soon.

Jimbo1367

Kilacam,
Feel free to send it to Joe. He'll be done with his hanses soon, so he'll have all sorts of free time. lol.

Joe,
I lined you up a probono job to keep you kinda busy. Oh yeah………Keep up the good work!!!

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Haha, funny guys. I'm definitely running out of projects, that's for sure.

Started the ECU bracket yesterday, going to mock it up in the car today to figure out how to orient the to-body support struts. It'll be mounted vertically, with plugs pointing down, between the heaterbox and the glovebox. This ECU is massive.. gotta be about 13" long and a good 7 or 8 lbs.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

That's quite a structure for supporting an ECU. Why is this thing so heavy? Did they pot the whole thing? I think the lack of cooling fins is interesting. Is it fan cooled?

Marktainium

I'm gonna guess the whole thing is epoxy filled. (anti-vibration failure prevention)

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Okay so potted, that would make sense. Factory ECUs are probably the same, but I think it's interesting how much additional weight this has over say an E38.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

The supporting bracket isn't too crazy.. 3/4" rectangular alu tube with 0.065" wall.. very light. The overall size of the ECU is likely due to all the extra auxiliary plugs, and their required circuit board(s), which requires bigger alu case, which requires more filling, etc.. slippery slope. It's slim so it'll tuck nicely the way I want it to.. trick will be getting the angles of supporting struts right to re-use some existing holes under the dash.

I knew my current/old rad was on the small side, but forgot how much so.. quite surprising it was even able to keep this thing cool at all..

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Funny I have a similar photo from when I put my Griffen on about 9 years ago. It is one thick SOB! I had to trim the factory rubber mounts a lot to get it to sit in place, but otherwise never had any issues and could use a stock radiator if I were in a bind.

Is the different location of the radiator outlet going to be a problem for where you've placed your exhaust and intake tubing?

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

The Griffin rad has a higher top left outlet and lower bottom inlet, so if the old setup was in a "neutral position", I'm going to have to shift the new rad down so that the top left outlet still tucks under my intercooler ->throttlebody charge pipe, but not so low that the hose to the bottom left inlet is at a crazy angle, or that my large single (14" I think?) fan hits my turbo hot side cross-over pipe. Will be a lot of trial test fitting. Dual 10" fans might be the easiest way to go so I can slam the rad down low and not worry about the edge of a large single fan's shroud coming close to or hitting the heat shield on my turbo cross-over pipe. Also I'll have to angle cut/weld the top left outlet to better redirect it. Arg

Marktainium

I hate your tape measure! Pick one.... inches or centimeters... not both....

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

I work in millimeters, but play in inches.. Mark you've never complained about my inches before...?!?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

What type of radiator did you use before and why didn't you get a Griffen replacement for that same application? Seems like a lot of work to shift it down.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

The old rad is a '94 S10 unit, and a direct-fit thicker aftermarket one is $300-400 depending on the maker, versus this universal (and a slightly smaller overall width, which I was looking for) Griffin unit which was $179. Seemed like an ok tradeoff for me.. anywayS, I'll make it work.. nothing that I shouldn't already be used to...

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

I have the same Griffin I think...I ended up choping the bottom outlet and welding on a tight radius pointed up to clean my hot side....I might even cut the top in the near future if I go with a 83 BW...but I know I shouldnt...