Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova

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Old 06-01-2014, 11:45 PM
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Don't tease me like that! It's still anyone's guess who'll be on the road first.. you have the transmission on the way, but the pump and misc stuffs still need to be sorted Whoever finishes first gets to go to the other's place and just make annoyingly awesome revvy noises as the person sweats and wrenches away!
Old 07-10-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Marktainium
soooo close to making sounds on its own! Maybe I'll drive mine over soon?
TFF. Mark is always there to take a jab.
Old 07-10-2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by frojoe
Don't tease me like that! It's still anyone's guess who'll be on the road first.. you have the transmission on the way, but the pump and misc stuffs still need to be sorted Whoever finishes first gets to go to the other's place and just make annoyingly awesome revvy noises as the person sweats and wrenches away!
I need to have this bet with a local car guy, we always seem to have projects in the same stage at the same time haha. Cars looking great man, fab work is top notch like always. And I missed it but what cam did you go with again?
Old 07-11-2014, 12:40 PM
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Joe, I guess I made missed your shroud build. It looks great. I love how you added the raise in the center so you could fit a larger diameter fan - it looks factory. I'm guessing this was done for space reasons, but it looks like there is little or no space between your shroud and the radiator in the flat sections. If so, you wont get much flow through that large area of the radiator. I would consider adding some rubber flaps like these so air can move through there when the car is underway. FWIW my shroud has about 1" clearance with the face of the radiator fins and that is consistent with what the original Volvo shroud and other OEM shrouds tend to have. I may add flaps to mine too.
Old 07-14-2014, 01:16 AM
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My rad shroud is ~ 1/2"-5/8" off the rad core, and shroud can't move back more due to turbo crossover piping, and rad can't move forward more due to intercooler, which can't move due to grill (already clearance trimmed) and bumper. Also, open area of rad has improved since previous rad setup, but half the area is still blocked by the intercooler, so I'll be relying on the fan 90% for cooling abilities.

Been struggling with throttle error codes on the Holley setup, but I discovered you can tap into and display every sensor input, so after swapping out a seemingly-bad old throttlebody (variable resistance on TPS #2 was ok, but the variable voltage was dead.. likely tha the input +5V connection to potentiometer got fried), and swapping some wires, I got the codes to go away.

In the Holley software there are neat drop-down selections for what throttlebody calibration to use (5 or 6 popular GM/Ford/Nissan throttlebodies), and so you'd think that as say the TB was changed from an LS2 to LS1 type (6pin vs 8 pin, same-direction-TPS-1-and-2-sweep vs inverted-sweep) then the ECU-internal wiring logic would recognize and compute accordingly.. nope. First I had to hardware splice an extra set of +5V/ref low wires from the 6pin LS2-TB-intended harness to a new 8pin plug for my old 8pin truck TB. Then I had to swap the "conventional" direction of the TPS #2 polarity because for the truck TB, the TPS#2 sweeps in the opposite direction of TPS#1. It was throwing codes with the plug previously wired "correctly" even when the tune was programmed for either type of TB and thus TPS-sweep-direction. Another thing, the error codes "error(5)", "error(8)", "error(9)" are assigned completely arbitrarily accoridng to a Holley electrical engineer, thru the Holley tech help guy.. and the codes have absolutely no meaning for reference/troubleshooting.. hmm.

Anyways. Got the codes fixed, all sensors check out, except for now the ECU is only recognizing the pedal travel up to 10%, then deadheads for the rest of the pedal travel, even tho the APP (Acceleration Pedal Position) voltages increase accordingly to WOT. Another call to Holley tomorrow.. dammit...
Old 07-14-2014, 08:28 AM
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There is no such thing as plug & play on a custom setup.
Old 07-14-2014, 07:28 PM
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There's also no such thing as common sense, or universal kits! Just lot's of plug and plug and plug away at it until it works! Then it is GLORIOUS!!!!

BTW...... I win..... even though I spun out...

Old 07-15-2014, 05:41 PM
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mark that thing is ******* amazing!


can I open a kickstarter campaign to acquire the funds to throw a turbo or 2 on mine? I mean, if potato salad guy can do it, I certainly can, right? and now that garrett has been rolled up into our aero division, it should be much easier to acquire a pair...
Old 07-16-2014, 11:42 AM
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So re-wired my brake pedal switch, and managed to get both APP sensors in the pedal to recognize full pedal sweep (0% pedal -> 100% pedal is: 0.96V -> 4.3V for APP#1, and 0.48V -> 2.14V for APP#2).

At the same time, now that the ECU doesn't think I'm trying to mash the pedal while brake is applied (anti-brakestand programming, much?), the TB position sensor reads 0% -> 100% with TPS#1 reading 1.2V -> 4.32V, and TPS#2 reading 3.88V -> 0.74V.

Time for another call to Holley.. so damn close!!

Pedal @ 0% (closed):



Pedal @ 100% (WOT):



Pedal @ 0% while cranking:

Attached Thumbnails LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova-tb-position-working-0-throttle.jpg   LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova-tb-position-working-100-throttle.jpg   LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova-tb-position-error-0-throttle-carnking.jpg  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:36 PM
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Have you verified that you do not lose voltage or ground while cranking to any systems? I think that there is a run contact on the ignition switch that drops out while cranking. I would disconnect the crank wire at the starter and hold the key in the crank position and verify voltage and ground where it should be. Other way to do it would be to "hot wire" the starter from the key run position. If you have all good no errors when not cranking, by bypassing the key switch you can eliminate a dropping voltage issue. you could also just put a meter on the outputs from the key switch to the computer / harness and see if the voltage stays high while cranking.
Old 08-06-2014, 12:05 PM
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Holley ecu/harness/pedal/throttlebody are on their way back to Holley. My tune seems good, my pedal is good, my throttlebody tests good for variable resistance & variable voltage on both TPS's, but for some reason upon cranking the signal voltage on TPS#2 jumps higher than its fully-closed voltage, and Holley can't figure it out from my data logs. I've wired the TB plug in numerous test ways to create same-direction TPS voltage sweeps, inverse direction the proper way as well as swapped, and probed all grounds, 5V refs, signal voltages, and reference voltage drops, and everything seems to check out when the key is just in RUN, as well as checked cranking 12V continuity. Arg!
Old 08-06-2014, 01:12 PM
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Warning: this post is NOT CAR RELATED.

Ok, while I've waiting for back-and-forth communications with Holley, got my bike back on the road. Since it was running last summer I replaced the broken shift-lever-return spring, cleaned/brushed the sidecovers, put a smaller headlight on it, and also a **** ton of modifications to fit a 2005 R1 4pot caliper on the front. The caliper backside hit the spokes, so.. spacer to move the rotor out from the spokes -> spacers to space the fork legs -> upper/lower crowns chopped/plated/welded wider for the widened fork leg spacing, and a custom bracket for the caliper too.

Attached Thumbnails LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova-58.jpg  
Old 08-06-2014, 01:18 PM
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Default LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova

Nice looking ride. What are your thoughts on the Holley EFI for ease of use?
Old 08-06-2014, 01:37 PM
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I can't comment on that as I haven't got the car started yet. The software is easy to navigate and quite nice.. but I have no real experience tuning it or anything yet. Hopefully Holley finds the issue and sends back ASAFP.
Old 08-06-2014, 09:15 PM
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Cable throttle body! You are killing me Joe! This car is begging to hit the open road! **** it, throw a carburetor on it and lets at least break this bitch in.
Old 08-18-2014, 02:22 PM
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So the harness/ECU/pedal/throttlebody have all been sent back to Holley. From what we can figure, the problem has been singled down to TPS#2 in the throttlebody getting an "over-voltage" upon cranking. As in when the TB cycles from closed to open from the pedal input, it goes ~4.5V closed to ~0.75V WOT, but when the TB moves during cranking the TPS spikes to 4.8V, so the ECU thinks the TB is closed even further past 0% throttle.

Holley has been very good with communication, deciphering my tune/logs, and even exporting me the raw data files for whichever sensors I ask for, so I can plot various relationships in Excel. Hoping they can figure out the issue when they bench test it on their engine, as well as swapping out known-good parts that they have.

In other news, I went and bought an entire interior for the car, so that's something to do while Holley figures it out for me.
Old 09-12-2014, 03:49 PM
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When you say you bought an interior, are you talking about reproduction stuff or do you have it at an upholsterer?
Old 09-12-2014, 03:55 PM
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Reproduction stuff.. except for the carpet, with my massively-taller driveshaft tunnel I need to cut a custom one out of a roll of loop material (total width I need is 68" wide, stock un-trimmed repro carpet about 58"). Likely do a 2-piece like stock with the overlap having that edge trim sewed on (maybe by me, maybe a local upholsterer). I trimmed up the rear seat structure to fit with the tubs, and will have to have the rear seats custom-upholstered because I couldn't find any reproduction rear seat covers.. have no idea why that part isn't made by anyone. Will get them covered in some stock-looking vinyl.
Old 09-12-2014, 05:05 PM
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Have u heard from holley? I had to send mine back also,they replaced ecu,they wouldnt say what the issue was just that there was one any way custome service did there job ,so in happy
Old 09-12-2014, 05:10 PM
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I've been talking back and forth with them, turns out that my truck TB operates differently than all the more modern TB's they have the system calibrated for, as well as my TB part number being erroneously included in the drop-down menu of "approved TB calibrations" even tho there isn't a specifically different calibration for the voltage and sweep directions.. so it was a number of factors adding up to it not passing internal safety checks and calculations. They said they got it running after changing a couple things but I haven't heard on when they plan to ship it back to me.. hopefully soon. I was emailing an electrical engineer directly for the better part of a week.. so it was cool to be getting legit technical answers since I'm also a more technical person.


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