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When you add the second pump, are you going to use the new EFI system to turn it on only at 1 PSI of boost or higher?
That is how I have my second pump at this time....that way when cruising around, I am not pumping a large amount of fuel by having both pumps run. I am just running a HOBBS switch off of intake pressure...once it hits 1 PSI, it trips the relay and turns on the second Walbro.
When you add the second pump, are you going to use the new EFI system to turn it on only at 1 PSI of boost or higher?
That is how I have my second pump at this time....that way when cruising around, I am not pumping a large amount of fuel by having both pumps run. I am just running a HOBBS switch off of intake pressure...once it hits 1 PSI, it trips the relay and turns on the second Walbro.
I considered that, but I'd rather have the security of both pumps running in parallel all the time to ensure that even if a pump fails, I'm not stranded. I'll be replacing the single Aeromotive 340 with dual Walbro 300's (from TRE performance.. apparently they're for a Mitsubishi Evo) so even if one pump fails the second pump would still be able to get me pretty well into boost, but also more importantly would be fine to get me home. I did fuel starve it once when trying to find the realistic emptiness of the gas tank, and the Holley unit recognized either the sudden dip in fuel pressure or the spike in AFR, and immediately cut out [spark I believe] and thus power. It was extremely obvious what was going on (that Holley was protecting and cutting power) and it wasn't the typical gradual loss in power from a non-ideal AFR.
Not much to update. When I got the car off the ground to replace the fuel pump (with 2 more 300lph pumps) I decided to put on high-clearance control arms for the future-planned front rim widening and subframe notching. I decided to do this now because I wanted the front end to sit lower, and the only way to do that would've been to modify my previous standard-clearance control arms.. so decided to sell those and just work over the new arms which I knew I would be getting in the future anyways. The new arms are flat (no droop like old ones, for more rim inner lip clearance) so in order to get the car to sit where I want.. modify brand new arms for correct lower shock mounts.. yayyy!
New...
Clearance'd...
Start of the L-bracketry for the lower mounts. Wanted at least one side to have mechanical purchase on the existing control arm plate, so that the brackets weren't relying 100% on fillet welds in tension (not that I don't trust my welding skills.. just a safety factor)...
Because of the new angle of the coilovers (lower mounts moved outboard to a 1.45:1 shock-wheel motion ratio from a stock control arm ratio of ~1.75:1), the upper edge of the coil spring would interfer with the stamped sheet metal of the stock subframe spring pocket, as well as the outer diameter of the coil massively interfering with the pass-thru hole in the subframe. So I cut!
This also involved making new upper spring perches for the coil on the shock body to drop that upper outer edge of the coil spring down ~1/2" to clear the spring pocket on the subframe..
Needs to be about 1/4"-3/8" higher in the front with trimmed fender lips, and about 1/4" lower in the back. It has a bloody 1.2* stinkbug rake.. it's gonna drive me nuts but I'll just have to deal with it for now and drive it. And have to move the diff forward to center the rear wheels in the wheel wells. oi...
The only two vehicles which I have insurance on are deliciously contrasting...
So I've been fiddling with the car for a while.. not really LS stuff but since all the work I've ever done to this thing is in this thread, I might as well update.
FINALLY got around to putting a carpet in after however many years of just Dynamat on the floor. I originally tried using a repro carpet with little hopes of it actually working, and of course it didn't fit because I raised the trans/driveshaft tunnel to 10"+ above the floorpan. Had to order some yardage of 40" wide 80/20 black look carpet, with a decently thin and flexible rubber backing to it..
I tried as hard as I could to get it to be 1 piece width-wise with just cut reliefs and heat it to conform around curves, but it just wasn't looking as good as I had hoped, so I decided to make it up from patch panels. I used sticky-backed Velcro to stick one side of the Velcro to the floor, and the other side used as a joining agent. I also used small patches of Velcro to keep the floor pinned down in various areas to prevent lifting or rippling..
Overall I'm pretty happy with how the joints ended up looking...
I did end up making a non-hidden seam separating the forward width-wise strip and the rearward width-wise strip, and covered the exposed edge with vinyl end trim to give it a bit of a 60's era look..
Since the carpet was out of the way, I could finally put in panels and stuff, as I didn't want to install anything scratchable before the carpet was in as I knew I'd be going in and out of the car a shitload of times while doing the carpet.
Reminder of how I installed hidden retractors for the seatbelts..
Nothing like cutting right into brand new stuff..
Luckily it worked out well. The trim pieces are from the rear seatbelts on a 90's Isuzu Trooper (where the belt goes thru side paneling into hidden retractors)...
I also wanted to upgrade the power steering pump to a newer lower-flow GM Type II pump, as the stock truck pump felt like it was overpowering the box a bit giving a vague feeling, as well as being massively squeely and annoying despite my best bleeding efforts. And the ancient Saginaw P pump with its cast aluminum bracketry was massively heavy!
Brilliant idea on the rear seat belt trim pieces. I've always liked the non-custom interior panels, too. The wood inlay on the custom interior hasn't aged well, plus the armrests are useless with that belt setup.
Did you have to make the cutout for the rear windows? I'd seriously consider removing the turn mechanism and handles altogether (or going electric) for a sleeker look.
Brilliant idea on the rear seat belt trim pieces. I've always liked the non-custom interior panels, too. The wood inlay on the custom interior hasn't aged well, plus the armrests are useless with that belt setup.
Did you have to make the cutout for the rear windows? I'd seriously consider removing the turn mechanism and handles altogether (or going electric) for a sleeker look.
When browsing the catalogue, the all-black panels were really the only legit choice.. the faux wood or faux ebony inlays just look disgustingly dated IMO. Call me old fashioned but I kinda like the look of the window cranks.. extra bit of 60's-era chrome. And I'm really too lazy to be bothered installing motors and switches/wiring for all for pieces of moving glass haha.
01-14-2015, 01:26 PM
