wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Hello, guys I'm really sorry I know this could be covered in some section here, but I really can't find anything yet... plus I ain't good with wiring at all... I just need to know where do all the following wires head too? and which colour goes to where?

My engine came off a 98 Camaro...

I'm in a hurry because a war might break out in my country and I need to get this car runing as soon as possible b4 I travel to Saudi Arabia and leave lebanon for good... please help...

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

The blue and white ones went through the firewall to the BCM on the f-body car. The other 3-4 big ones all run to the underhood fuse panel on the f-body harness. You dont need many of the wires at all. only a few are acutally used. look through the conversion/hybrids section for the LS1 swapers guide thread, covers which wires you actually need to make your setup run. Also, hope you deleted VATS or your motor wont run more than 3-4 seconds at a time.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

the cut wires on the passenger side head went to AC compressor and the EGR solenoid valve.

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Thank you so much Andrew... I'll check the Hybrid guide thread and i'll be back... for more questions if I face any problems...

Edit: Yes I removed VATS when I was in Saudi Arabia... thanks for the reminder tho...

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

I Guess I don't have a BCM, but why would I need to have a BCM? if I'm putting the whole swap on another car? dosn't it control stuff on the 240sx too? and if I don't have it can I continue without it... I just want to turn my car on, I don't mind if anything else isn't working... cause as I said b4, something shitty is about to happen in this country...

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

OEM LS1 Harness ID & Connectors...
The LS1 harness basically connects to the rest of the car thru a few specific connectors. The first four are located in the area of right shock tower...
...C100...black 10 pin connector.
............A- pink (bank 1 ign/inj switched 12v 15amp power in)
............G- pink (transmission/EVAP switched 12v 15amp power in)
............J- dk green (cooling fan 1 relay control out)
...C101...grey 10 pin connector.
............B- pink (bank 2 ign/inj switched 12v 15amp power in)
............D- dk green w/ white stripe (fuel pump relay control out)
............E- pink w/ black stripe (switched 12v 15amp power for PCM in)
............G- orange (constant power for PCM 12v 50amp power in)
............H- black w/ white stripe (ground in)
...C102...
............A- purple (starter solenoid "start" power in)
...C105...black 8 pin connector.
............B- pink (trans/stop lamp/heated o2/MAF 12v 20amp power in)
............G- white (tach signal out)

The other two are located behind the firewall, inside the passenger compartment, on the other side of the firewall grommet.
...C220...natural color 10 pin connector.
............E- black w/ white stripe (ground in)
............G- brown (to back-up lite switch 12v"+" power input)
............H- lt green (from back-up lite switch out to lites)
............K- dk green w/ white stripe (VSS signal 4000ppm speedo output from LS1 PCM)
...C230...blue 10 pin connector.
............B- brown w/ white stripe (MIL lamp)
............E- dark blue (VATS fuel enable input)
............K- dk green (serial data class 2 output from LS1 PCM to OBD-II connector)

The only other two points that the LS1 harness needs connected are down by the LS1's starter...
...purple wire... needs to be connected to the starter solenoid's "S" terminal.
...open ground lug... needs to be connected to a block ground.

The GM color code for wiring is very consistant. When in doubt, the following applies to any loose ends you might end up with in connectors C100, C101, C105, C220, and C230...
...red wires...all loose red wires should be connected to "12v+" protected by a fusible link.
...orange wires...all loose orange wires should be connected to "12v+" protected by a fuse of at least 10a.
...pink wires...all these wires in the LS1 harness should connect to a 12v "switched +" power source hot in "start" and "run".
...black...all these wires in the LS1 harness should connect to chassis ground.
...black w/ white stripe...all these wires in the LS1 harness should connect to engine ground.


What do you guys think of this is it right?!

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

You dont need the BCM, only needed it if you didnt have vats deleted so you should be fine without it.

eastcoastbumps

iTrader: (1)

Yes, thats all correct. As you can see, you only need a few of the wires from those connectors. The other wires are evap emissions and other stuff you don't have to connect.

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to everyone who helped out... the reason I didn't search alot is because I'm in the Middle East (exactly in Lebanon) and theres a probability of civil war soon... (Hizbullah vs. U.S Allied Groups and parties) so I'm very thankful for the Flame Free posts... Cause the car has to be done soon and taken out of the country... I might have some other questions I'll be back to this thread...

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Connector C100
A. This is the power for the odd fuel injectors, route it to IGN 1 15A fuse
B. Not needed
C. Not needed
D. Not needed
E. Not needed
F. Not used
G. Engine control power, route to IGN 3 15A fuse
H. Cooling fan #2 / high speed relay, route to terminal 86 of cooling fan #2 relay
J. Cooling fan #1 / low speed relay, route to terminal 86 of cooling fan #1 relay
K. Not needed

Connector C101
A. Not needed
B. Power for even coils, route to IGN 2 15A fuse
C. Not needed
D. Output for fuel pump relay, route to terminal 85 of fuel pump relay
E. Computer power, route to IGN 4 15A fuse
F. Not used
G. Constant computer power, route to BAT 1 10A fuse
H. Not used
J. Not used
K. Not needed


Connector C105
A. Not needed
B. Engine sensor power, route to IGN 5 20A fuse
C. Not needed
D. Not needed
E. Serial data signal, rout into car to Data Link Connector terminal #9
F. Not needed
G. Not needed
H. Not needed



Connector C220
A. Generator idiot light (-) side, if you already have a GEN light it should wire right in, if its an internal regulator alternator on your stock motor wire this to the wire that connected to terminal #1 on the alternator. If you need to add in a GEN light then wire this to one side and the other side of the light to an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil).
B. Oil pressure output, if you are going to try using the LS1 oil pressure sender with your gauge then connect this wire to your oil pressure gauge. I just put the stock sender from my original motor in, and abandoned this wire.
C. Low oil level idiot lamp (- output, grounds to illuminate light), this is not necessary but if you have an oil idiot light you can hook it up, just hook the wire from the oil light to this terminal.
D. Not used
E. Not used
F. Not used
G. Vehicle speed sensor output from computer, this is a 4000 pulse per mile square wave output, it will work for GM speedometers and some aftermarket speedos, other aftermarket speedos need a direct signal from the VSS
H. Not needed
J. Not needed
K. Temperature gauge output, I read that this output was close enough to be accurate for older GM gauges, but I decided to put my original temp sending unit into the extra hole on the passenger side head.


Connector C 230
A. Not needed
B. To service engine soon light, (- output) Hook this to one side of a 12V light bulb and hook the other side of the bulb to an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil, or better yet to the IGN 5 20A fuse)
C. Not used
D. Tachometer output (this is a 4 cylinder, two pulse per revolution output)
E. VATS fuel enable, not needed if you delete the VATS in the computer, or you could keep it and run a VATS bypass box if you want the extra security.
F. Not needed
G. Not needed
H. To brake torque converter clutch switch. You need a switch that provides +12V power to this wire when the car is running and then cuts power when you press the brake pedal. You may have a cruise control switch that does this already there or you may have to add a switch. If you need a switch you can use a microswitch from radioshack, just make a bracket to hold the switch behind the arm of the brake pedal so that when the pedal is at rest the switch is depressed and when you push the brake pedal down the switch opens and loses contact. If you need to add a switch you can get the power for that switch from an ignition hot fuse (IE: the fuse that used to provide power to your coil, or better yet to the IGN 5 20A fuse)
J. Park neutral position switch, You need a switch that will ground out this wire when the car is in park or neutral. There may already be a switch on the shifter for this or you may have to add one. Same as above you can use a microswitch, except that for this switch you wire it to a ground, not a power source.
K. Serial data output to DLC connector terminal #2


Relays, This is based on the use of 30A bosch style automotive relays, relays # 1,2, and 3 could be combined into 1 relay if you could find one with a 80A rating.

Relay 1
Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), I would use the wire that powered the original coil (remove the ballast resistor)
Terminal 86 To ground
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to 2 15A fuses(IGN 1 and IGN 2) IGN 1 fuse to pin A of C100 connector, and IGN 2 fuse to pin B of C101 connector.

Relay 2
Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), I would use the wire that powered the original coil (remove the ballast resistor)
Terminal 86 To ground
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to 2 15A fuses(IGN 3 and IGN 4) IGN 3 fuse to pin G of C100 connector, and IGN 4 fuse to pin E of C101 connector.

Relay 3
Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), I would use the wire that powered the original coil (remove the ballast resistor)
Terminal 86 To ground
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to 1 20A fuse(IGN 5), IGN 5 to pin B of connector C105

Relay 4 fuel pump relay
Terminal 85 to pin D of connector C101
Terminal 86 To ground
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to 1 20A fuse then to the fuel pump.


The cooling fans can use two relays or one, it looked like you had two fans so you could hook them up separetly and have one fan kick on normally and then have the second fan kick on only if the engine keeps getting warmer. Or you could hook both fans to fan relay #1 (if they take less than 30A combined or if you get a 40A relay) and have them both turn on at the same time and just ignore the wiring for fan relay #2.

Relay 5 cooling fan #1 / slow speed fan
Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), I would use the wire that powered the original coil (remove the ballast resistor)
Terminal 86 To pin J of connector C100
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to a 20A fuse or larger, depends on your cooling fan requirements.

Relay 6 cooling fan #2 / high speed fan
Terminal 85 to conversion car wiring (a wire that is hot in run and start modes), I would use the wire that powered the original coil (remove the ballast resistor)
Terminal 86 To pin H of C100 connector
Terminal 30 Direct to battery voltage
Terminal 87 to a 20A fuse or larger, depends on your cooling fan requirements

The only other wiring to hook up should be the starter wire, I would take the wire that used to connect to the conversion cars starter solenoid (should be purple if it’s a GM) and connect it directly to the starter solenoid on the LS1 starter.

Also the DLC link in the car, the power wire for that needs to go to a battery constant fuse, you can either wire it to the stock lighter fuse in the conversion vehicle (preferred) or connect it to the BAT 1 fuse that supplies power to the computer. And you need both ground wires in the DLC connector.

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Is this better than the one b4? cause it has more details... and it also has things more specific things like first fan and second fan for when the temp changes... but in some connecters there are alot of changes and new things... why are all those included in this second one? or could it be for a newer or older model?

Thanks!

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

ok more pics and more broken (connecters)

Ok first of all, what does the Alternator Connecter look like? Cause It seems like I'm missing it... I have a picture is this what you all have? (see pictrues)

Then I found that this sensor in the back of the Manifold is broken (probably when dropping the LS1 in) what is it for? temp? or what? (see pics)

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

1. looks like the oil pressure sensor
2. alt connector is a black 4 pin unit with one red wire
3. looks like the MAF connector

pdsq98gt

Pic 1 looks like your camshaft position sensor. Pic 3 looks like your MAF sensor connector. Not sure where the connector for the alternator is.

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

So is it the Cam Position sensor or the oil pressure? But it looks to me like the Cam Position sensor...

And about the Alternator Connector I can't find it Anywhere, do you think the dealership sells it?

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

def not cam pos...

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

so for sure its Oil Pressure Sensor?

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

yes.....

wajouba

iTrader: (1)

Which wire from the connectors is the Low Oil level wire? (The one that leads to the dash board? cause in the two top Connector details I have, they are not in the same place... so which one is the correct one for the 98 model Camaro?

Thanks