brans72ss

hey guys i have been trying to stab my ls1 in to my 1972 chevelle today but as of right now it is a no go i know you going to ask so my set up is a 98 ls1 using ats mounts, tall frame mounts ( i have both yu guys have showed pics on) cts-v oil pan and body is off the frame (building whole car ground up. i am not sure what to do cause seems as if i do not have enough clearance. right now i have the tall mounts on the frame and ats mounts are switch to correct side pass to drive and drive to pass i saw post on this sometime ago about ats mounts. so any ideas? i can post pic's if need and i am not rasing hell about ats so please don't think i am! i wanted to use there plates from day one but if need be i will seel or see what tyler can do for me. i just wanted the motor to be right postion not to forward like some kits. ideas are welcome but take in mind the frame is POWERED COATED ALREADY SO NO FRAME MODS and no there is no compressor on the car. thanks guy hopefuelly some can help me out! brandon

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

not sure what type of mount ats uses, but I used BRP mounts and moved the frame perches back a bit...we just redrilled the holes in the frame perches so they use the factory holes in the frame

THIS WAS DONE SO THE STARTER WOULD CLEAR, otherwise factory frame position would have worked

using an lh8 pan...only way I could get it to work

brans72ss

i think i need a 1/4 spacer made to fit under my factory frame mounts to solve my problems not 100% yet i know bczee is using the cts-v oil pan without a problem. i might try washers just to see how much clearance is needed. i will post some pictures later on today.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

oh sorry man, I forgot to mention...I do have 1/4" spacers under the engine mounts. So it's: brp mount, 1/4" spacer (some kinda premade things my dad said were for putting something on 4x4 chevy trucks in the 80s), sbc engine mounts, stock frame mounts direct to frame

I did this to clear stearing when I thought I was going to use an f-body pan, now I don't see any reason I would need them at all but they're too much a pain to take off for no reason too.

john 67

if you click on my build thread below and go to page 2 you can see that i used s&p style adaptors short and wide style frame and engine mounts and 2 sets of spacers between the adaptor plates and the engine mounts.i had to play around with this about 10 times before i got it to what worked for me.JOHN

brans72ss

john i see th e thread and great idea man!i tried again today with another team chevelle member and we still had no luck with using the tall frame mounts and ats mounts that look almost the same as yours! we both kinda figured that since the edge of the oil pan was missing by a hair that maybe i should take the frame mounts and length th bolt holes to sode the frame mounts back toward the firewall direction 1/2. i would course then use new grade 8 bolts with lock washers and nuts to secure th mounts. what are your thoughs on that? mind me asking where you got you shims from? i might try them also. only other idea we had is to redrill frame and i would like to avoid that if possible. i do not believe it is my mounts fault yet but think it is just luck or the run and plan on solving this problem. thanks for info so far guys and keep it coming. brandon

brans72ss

john is the cts-v same oil pan as ls2? you are using?

john 67

My pan is a s&p modified pan, the engine mounts are energy suspension ( if i remember correctly, i can verify later if you need ) the tall mounts - i made a mistake in the previous post i said they were the short ones, anyway the plates come with the engine mounts they are some type of preload plate when you use them in a stock situation.being that i purchased both types of engine mounts i had 2 sets of plates and it worked out that was just enough spacing for what i needed, i did have to drill new holes for the frame mounts only after i was sure the engine was in
the correct spot---tie rod clearence,header or manifold clearence,trans clearence . i know the 67 differs from your frame but the issues are the same ill get some better pics if you need .JOHN

brans72ss

sure that would be nice john! like i stated before i am using tall frame mounts with ats mounts just my cts-v oil pan is like a hair from frame to right on it and i need to move it back like a 1/2 i think. how much did you move your mounts back? would slotting te mounts be ok to you guys????? i mean if you look at the mount for p/s it is already kinda slotted in one spot just make rest of them the same to let them move back toward trans area to give clearance i need. just my though of now and another t/c member.

Brandon

john 67

page 5 some mount pics, i used the one on the left . page 6 is a good shot of the finished mount setup , i painted the plates different colors .sticky on the top of this forum has a good oil pan comparison.

john 67

wouldnt spacing or shimming it up solve your problem? i would have gone further up but being that i used a 4l80e trans the further up i went with the motor the further down the trans would have to go . i wouldnt worry about the holes right now , i would just make sure you get everything where you need it .my frame was powdercoated before i got my mount situation resolved , and i got a few scratches near the mounts and had to drill new holes,you can touch up the scratches ,i used some painters tape on the frame while doing all of this but still i got a couple of scratches.JOHN

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Hey.. back. was out running around most of the weekend.. Yeah.. I had the frame powder coated and a SBC in before I pulled it out for the LS1.. so.. I'm in the club with the rest of the powder coated 1st club !

But I am using the CTS-V pan.. the mounts are 1/4" plates with Short Wide engine stands modified to work with Tall Narrow engine mounts.

Like the early BRP style mounts you have to relocate the frame stands. I just bolted up all together (plates, mounts and stands), then drop the unit in and then marked the location of the frame stand holes and re-drilled new holes in the cross member once I correctly had the engine in the position where I wanted it.

Yes. my frame mounts are facing backwards but, it makes no differents if you are relocating them anyway. The pan and Steering just clears or make a slight contact, I have put a limiter on the A-Arm to keep it from the steering ends from just touching the pan. (yeah, may have lose a bit of the turing, but not much). Watch out if your using F-body accessories.. the power Steering box and the pulley willl be very tight ! if not hitting, so put your accessories on before you make the final placement.

It may not seem like a good idea, but it is ok to off set your engine to the passenger side if you have too.. the BBC placement is over a bit in the A-Body, and if you check other manufactors, some are also offset to the passenger side..

Isn't the ATS much like the S&P style mounts ? or just upside down ???

The CTS-V plan does cause you to set the engine either back more or raise the engine a bit more due to the mid part of the pan slopeing down to the back slump and coming into contact with the crossmember. The front of the CTS-V pan is about the same depth as a LS2 vette pan, so you need to watch out for the steering. But the mid part is different, the LH8 pan goes farther back before sloping down to the lower slump.

Just keep in mind, the farther back or higher the engine sits, the more you will have to modify the Firewall and trans tunnel for a T56 and maybe some for the larger 4L80's...

brans72ss

i got what your saying so far i am going to try ither raising engine little or sliding it back 1/2 inch. the ats mounts are similar to ones john67 is using. figure 1/2 inch can't hurt can it? i am using f body accessory's so glad you said something there!! i was wondering though if you offset to pass side ( you saying higher on that side?) wouldn't that lower te p/s toward steering box? i would really like some close up's of your mounts and p/s if possible and not your site (i have looked at it 100 times lol) thanks guys for help so far. brandon