Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

I'm moving the battery to the back of my '68 for better weight distribution. It's probably ~12' or so to the starter. I'm using corvette accessories (alternator). I'll also be using a battery cut off, if that matters.

What size of battery cable should I use? I priced out the 0/1 at over $5/foot!

Also, I figure I'll run the main negative up to the engine block.

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

A quality 4AUG should do it no problem, but I'd rather only do it once, so I did 0AUG on my relocate. Both positive up to fuse box and alternator, up front ground-engine block and in rear ground-body.

At the rate I spend money on the car, what was an extra $100 for fancy nice looking big wires, nice looking firewall pass throughs, etc. An inexpensive, highly-efficient 0AUG is welding wire. The stuff used to supply grounds in professional welding shops for the TIG welders - they order it in 100+ foot lengths so it's usually only $1-$2 per foot.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Take a look at what Jegs and Summit have to offer. The wire sizes are listed there.
I use 1/0 weld cable. It's alot more flexible than batt cable. Also, unless the car has a full frame, I run the grnd to the engine, not the unibody.

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

Assuming you are moving the battery to the back, you need to run (in front) a ground to the body because your ground in the back is going to the body. An additional ground up front to the engine is a good idea.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

i use at least #1, and use #4 for the alt to the rear-the larger for the alt allows it to run cooler, less resistance-much smaller and it sees it as a load, and keeps trying to charge all the time-the bat cut off switch has to shut the motor off when turned/pushed

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

5$ a foot for 0/1? You must of been looking and some pretty crappy cable...

I used an audio grade cable and it made the job very easy. Compared to auto parts store the audio grade is actually bendable, has more conductor, and more insulator!

I think I spend about 100 on my cabling excluding some conductor and connectors I got for free.

Kelly.

i used 2g and havent had any problems

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

What would "crappy" 0/1 be? I bought red welding cable from the welding store years ago for something else, and it was really cheap.

a10beav

I used 0AUG from the battery to the starter, but 1/0 should be good enough too. The ground wire shouldn't be too long though, so you still should ground it in the back; grounding the engine to the frame up front will help too. For the alternator/battery recharge I'd use 6 or 8 gauge.

Check out Taylor's kits: http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/index...leGroundingKit

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I used 1/0 copper THHN house wire up front. Didnt relocate my battery though. Very stiff to bend. I used it for my alternater, ground, and starter. I see 14.4v all the time though and 14.2v at my fuel pump where i ran 10awg copper house wire.

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...F:OR:terms::PA

Scroll down a bit.....0/1 for $2.61 a foot, unless you buy more, then its even less.....I suppose you're not cool unless you spend over $100 for the cable.

ss454327

iTrader: (10)

You don't need to run a ground from the battery back to the front you just need to make sure the engine is grounded and the battery in the rear has a solid ground as well. You won't NEED anything bigger than 4aug and you can use welding lead instead of expensive car audio wire. I wouldn't skimp on the connections either.

fouz65

X2

and make sure you put a 150 amp infuse or s/thing on the cable. if it shorts out it can burn the car to the ground.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

Good idea..............

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

I use 2GA welding cable (15Ft). I would put the battery box in driver's side backseat.

Carshopinc.com

iTrader: (5)

Here are a few options from my website
http://allstarperformance.carshopinc..._id/5554/76110

http://allstarperformance.carshopinc..._id/5555/76112

http://allstarperformance.carshopinc..._id/5556/76114

http://painlesswiring.carshopinc.com...id/43851/40100

http://taylorvertex.carshopinc.com/p...id/53223/48000

1999ls1snake

It's much better to use a solenoid. This way the cable is only live when cranking. Put the fuse on the alternator cable instead. Littlefuse makes nice Mega fuses in the 80 to 200 amp range. 100 amp should be plenty.

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

4 ga stereo wire has done just fine for me for the power wire! you may want larger for the negative.....when i used the same size negative it would be hard to start. that is if you are planning on running the ground the whole car length. if you wanted to keep the 4 ga for the ground.....just ground it in the front and also in the back so theres less resistance with the shroter lengths.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Haha was that being sarcastic? I wast trying to be cheap, and it wasnt, but i know that that i see max voltage with it. I used some Tsunami batter clamps from Autozone the gold plated ones. they are GREAT. They have two 4 AWG inputs each and two 8 gauge that tighten down with allen screws. The 1/0awg house wire fits in the 4 awg and two soldered 10 awg fits in the 8 gauge places. My entire car is run with toggle switches lmao.

Geezer's Garage

I used #2 welding cable at $1.87 per foot. I welded a ground stud to the unibody trunk floor plus ran an 8 gauge ground cable from the battery back up to the engine block. Engine also has two other ground straps to the body. Working fine.