bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

The mod bug bit me hard!

Before I start doing the exhaust work, I want to do suspension.

What was your first suspension mod?

How did it over all improve the handling, drive-ability and feel of your 'vert?

Please list each mod and the difference in percentage.

Also what SHOULD be the first suspension mod on a dd vert?

Thank you!

CO99Z28Vert

iTrader: (30)

I probably cant help you with a direct answer on what helped me the most since i did them all at the same time.
I did the umi bolt on subframe connectors, rear lower control arms, on car adjustable panhard and also a 4 point bolt in Wolfe roll bar. I can tell you that the ride was much sturdier especially taking driveways at angles and cornering is much better.
I would say that the subframe connectors and roll bar made a world of difference.

I really need to upgrade my shocks to go with my Eibach prokit since my stock shocks while not leaking are definitely not holding up with 120,000 on them.

shiv15

iTrader: (7)

I did sfc, lca, relocation brackets, and adj panhard bar. Made a big difference in how it hooks and feels. Shocks and springs are still needed though.

Saturn5

First thing you need to do is decide what you want to improve.
Most people on here think a quarter mile at a time, and things that work on the drag strip don't necessarily help around corners. Some things help for both, like SFC and STBs. Anything to stiffen up the chassis can help. After that, stuff that improves handling may hurt drag strip performance, and vice versa.

First mod should probably be SFC. They'll help with everything.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Ok thanks guys, keep it coming.

My main goal is a better handling on the street, since its a dd. I couldn't care about track use since the closest track is 3 hours away.

So far my list looks like this.
SFCs
Front 35mm sway bar & Rear 22mm sway bar
LCA with panhard bar.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

This is what umi has for convertibles.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=194

This is for ttop/hard top
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=197

is the ttop one more sturdy since its 3 point? can these be rigged to work?
Or does another brand offer the 3 point for 'verts?

Thanks

fbodyrs96

iTrader: (6)

nope, nobody makes 3 points for the vert.

but I love my UMI weld-ins major difference in ride and handling

I'm also have running the following.

-Kenny Brown 3 point STB
-J&M LCA's 3 Piece Poly Ball Bushings (red)
-J&M Panhard Rod (red)
-32mm 1LE Front Sway Bar (black)
-32mm Prothane bushings (red)
-Front Energy Suspension End links set (black)
-21mm 1LE rear sway bar (red)
-21mm Prothane bushings/end links set (red)

JD_AMG

Good shocks first, they will make the biggest difference in handling, feel and drive ability of the car because the factory ones are so lack luster. Replacing with OEM or some cheap autozone ones will be a waste of time and money, the issue is how the shock is valved, you want a sport shock like Bilstien or Koni.

Shamson5.7

iTrader: (5)

The guy I bought mine from had already redone the entire undercarriage. Shocks, springs, LCAs Panhard...everything! If the road is bumpy, you really feel it. I own a 91 fullsize chevy pickup and it rides softer than my TA. However, the TA handles like a damn dream. Id go as far as saying its tighter than the newer Evos. The rough ride does make a lot more noise as far as rattles go though.

farmington

iTrader: (14)

SLP USED to make a 3 point bolt in SFC for our verts, but discontinued them. If you look, you might find a set (I did).

FastrDamnit!

iTrader: (7)

Shocks (had mine revalved to spring specs) then Swaybars were the two mods I felt biggest difference with.
All other supension in sig.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Many good comments above already, but I'll chime in anyhow.

1. STB it's easiest and a noticeable improvement in cornering, U-Turns and lane changes. Hotchkis has the lightest (aluminum)
2. SFCs welded -- UMI has good ones, be sure to select their convertible ones - 3 pt. would be nice, but UMI never came through to make what they promised -- try emailing to ask. These made a BIG difference in cornering and hooking.
3. Sway bars -- pretty easy to swap, and lessened body roll and better cornering, Strano 35/22 hollow is a good choice.
4. Shocks (do these with the sways, since you have to detach the front sway for front shocks anyhow. I would go Koni SAs for a V8, or SLP Bilsteins for a V6, which is what I've done.
5. Watts Link seems to be the finishing piece to improve the solid axle's planting.
6. After that, who knows, depends if you have issues like wheel hop.

Give Sam Strano a call, he has great insight... http://stranoparts.com

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Photo of your Kenny Brown STB please!

fbodyrs96

iTrader: (6)

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, first time I saw that unit. Didn't know he did otherCamaro parts, are there others besides this & SFCs?

I assume it also just screws to the firewall like other 3pt ones? I can't see how that adds much value -- I'd be worried the firewall metal would rip or bolts would bend out distorting their holes...

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Strano sway bars really improved cornering.

Hotchkiss springs I would not do again. Stance is OK
with stock rears + hose mod. There are better ways to
go.

SLP Bilsteins up front are fine, Gabriel air shocks out back
feel no different from Bilstein rears but I can "drag bag"
if I want.

Random Tech adjustable TA sucked for noise. UMI is good
(nonadjustable). You need an adjustable front mount to do
any reaction tweaking, don't bother with an adjustable
unless you're going to adjust the nose, if your drop is not
insane.

Hotchkiss adjustable PHR is adjusted to stock length. Not
needed unless > 1" drop and fat tires.

Hotchkiss STB eliminated a "cowl shake" on hard cornering,
even though many say it helps none I disagree (maybe 'vert
specific)

Lakewood DSL replaces the stamped brace under the rear
seats. Better than the rest, because you can install w/o
dropping the shaft and vice versa.

Front brace had to go, to fit long tubes.

K-member I regret doing, should have swiss-cheesed a
stocker for the cost of a hole saw and some afternoons.
Go beefy ("road racing") or don't go, unless you want to
trailer it home from a random failure location. Mine failed
backing into the driveway (though it was pulling apart
slowly before that, noticable only as alignment going out).

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

If you are concentrating on handling the first areas I would look at would shocks, springs, and sway bars. These three things will make the biggest difference as far as handling goes. For shocks I would recommend the Koni's, which if you purchase thru us come with a free set of BMR lowering springs. Our BMR sway bars are hollow 35mm for the front and hollow 25mm for the rear and they come with new poly-urethane bushings and end links. It all really just comes down to what your budget is and what you are looking for out of your car.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Do you really recommend a 25mm rear bar for a *daily driver*?

Better go with Strano's 22mm instead...

fbodyrs96

iTrader: (6)

IDK,

a lot of the guys on V6f-body.com have them, they also fit the LT1's not sure about the LS1, and its just like the 3 points you have to luck up and find one for sale. found mine for $60 shipped still wrapped in its originally box brand new.

BTW my 3rd point is not bolted on, you have to drill a hole through the cowl to use it.
but it did make a noticeable difference over my old 2 point, the bar is just so much stronger and sturdier than the 2 point.