nastybuzzard

iTrader: (2)

I purchased a 1999 Z28 M6 Vert NBM last year, it is bone stock 130k miles. All I've done to it is a lid and short throw shifter. I mostly just drive to work on Fridays or when the weathers nice down here in South Carolina.

Originally I wanted a TA or Formula but I landed this girl on a pretty good deal. Since I haven't had any luck on trading it for a formula or TA I guess it's time to start modding her to make her a lil more interesting!

This is my first LS1 4th gen but I have had several other 93-97 cars, the last one was a 97 z28 M6 with LT4 mods.

First off, I never ever thought I'd like a vert but she really has grown on me! However, I live in the backwoods with windy rough roads and she is way too "floaty" for me.

Since I just purchased a borla adjustable catback and have a SS spoiler & hood lined up my budget has grown slim for a little bit.

So to fix some suspension issues, I know I need to rid myself of the stock decarbons, but I haven't decided what brand shock I want yet and need to let me budget grow back, I have decided to make some homemade sub frame connectors and a strut tower brace. I'm also planning to do hose mod as well.

I'd like to make bolt in style to start with, similar to what UMI offers.

When I get her on jack stands this weekend for some mods I plan to take measurements and do some models & drawings in Inventor/CAD.

I'll share that info here willingly to anyone who wants to know and do a write up of what I do or build. This may not be a complete in one weekend but I will try and stay true to show what I've done when finished.


If anyone has pre-existing drawings or measurements they would like to provide me to help out it will be greatly appreciated!!

I'm so ready to drop the top when warm weather comes back!!

nastybuzzard

iTrader: (2)

I guess no one has any opinions or advice about the subject! I was hoping for at least some feedback!

I ended up spending most of Saturday at Hawks Third Gen picking up a complete ebony interior swap for the vert and a replacement used/painted bumper. Goodbye tan!!

Sunday was beautiful so I put on the bumper and borla adjustable catback.

I took some measurement and did some sketches but I had to use the rest of the time playing with my 6 week old son! He's growing too fast!!

JohnnyBs98WS6Rag

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the f-bod ragtop club!

I'm guessing the tepid response to your request for information regarding a DYI design / fab of STBs and SFCs is due to the fact that the majority of f-body owners either purchased existing aftermarket units or don't have the CAD & FAB experience to undertake such an effort. Even if "open source" plans existed (that aren't budened with IP legal issues), fabbing a SFC or STB from said plans would still be a significant undertaking unless you have experience and tools for fabricating in metal. I doubt that there are very many folks around that fit that description (let alone come to this board very often). You might get a better response posting this question in the general chassis / suspension area.

Good luck!

nastybuzzard

iTrader: (2)

Well, I am an engineer by trade and former designer. I had the car up on jack stands and noticed that the car actually has somewhat of standard subframe connectors from the factory built into the body.

I took some rough measurements but I need to pull out my depth gauge to get some more accurate measurements. Am I correct in thinking that the bolt on sub frame connectors bolts to the lower control arms? I swear I saw that in a picture somewhere. I can be mistaken.

I plan on designing my own style, maybe 3 point or somewhat. A good friend of mine and I plan to develop quite a few parts for 3rd gen, 4th gen and hopefully one day 2nd gen.

I will document my progress as I get time. Life is busy right now with craziness at work, my 6 week old son and just life in general!

MaroonMonsterLS1

Would love to see something like this! I figured a bolt in style out of box tubing would be more than do-able. I'm a ME student and am decent at solidworks modeling. Anything you throw together would be great for me to reference when i attempt my own this summer.

nastybuzzard

iTrader: (2)

Another ME, nice! Yeah I could send you a .step file when I'm done. I am going to see how it looks with round tubing and square tubing. I don't want to detract from the look of the vert at all.

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

FWIW: I have had both 2 pt and 3 pt bolt on SFC's, 2 pt are a nice improvement but 3pt are really overkill unless you plan to auto cross. I have bolt in 3pts now and regret going from 2pt to 3pt, really. IMHO.

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

I have 2pt SFC and a BMR STB along with all kinds of other suspension goodies. There really isn't a need to design your own. Would be cool yes, worth it, most likely not. I'm an ME too btw ha.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

thread jack i didnt want to start a new thread. i like my bmr welded sfc & panh & lca's. im wondering for a stock ride not lowered are relocation brackets worth it? anybody have em on their vert? thx ps before sfc my car rocked like a boat anytime i hit a bump. now solid & straight as an arrow.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I couldn't agrees more, there are plenty of affordable suspension/chassis parts out like our BMR Suspension stuff that can get you squared away without breaking the bank. Sometimes it is definitely cool to build your own stuff but more times than not it ends up costing you more than you would have paid for nice parts made by a reputable company.

If you are concerned about straight line performance the lower control arm relocation brackets would be something I would recommend. You don't have to be lowered to see a benefit from them. On a car that is factory ride height you will still see an improvement in wheel hop, traction, and over performance/consistency.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

i think relocation brackets have maybe 2 spot choices is the higher one better for a non lowered car? i have no wheelhop and im on street tires so you feel i would get better traction with the slightly downward angle? thx any aprox 1/4 gains or 60' time gains customers are seeing? thx again.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

For a factory ride height car with street tires I would run it in the higher of the to lowered mounting positions. You should definitely see better traction and straight line performance with the rear lower control arms being angled downward towards the rear end. It is tough to say what exact gains you would see because there are so many variables. I will say that you will notice a positive difference with them.