Rear window glued to cloth top?
04-02-2007, 11:18 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I still say, get the black polyurethane windshield adhesive,
mind your prep (so it will stick where you want it) and
masking (because it -will- stick where you don't). Not
weatherstrip adhesive, talking the real industrial stuff
from a windshield / glass shop.
Once you get silicone into the fabric you can pretty
much forget anything else sticking to the fouled surface.
Even "paintable" silicones are a bit slippery, plain-old
is pretty much like mold-release, forget it.
A tube of more-than-enough should set you back $12
or so I expect. At that price there's no reason to half-***
it.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/deta...tion.asp?11554
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/deta...ption.asp?1250
(this looks like the one I remember using)
Haven't seen any sponsors selling window goop so I figure
these links are OK. Just Google for "windshield adhesive"
and turn up plenty more.
mind your prep (so it will stick where you want it) and
masking (because it -will- stick where you don't). Not
weatherstrip adhesive, talking the real industrial stuff
from a windshield / glass shop.
Once you get silicone into the fabric you can pretty
much forget anything else sticking to the fouled surface.
Even "paintable" silicones are a bit slippery, plain-old
is pretty much like mold-release, forget it.
A tube of more-than-enough should set you back $12
or so I expect. At that price there's no reason to half-***
it.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/deta...tion.asp?11554
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/deta...ption.asp?1250
(this looks like the one I remember using)
Haven't seen any sponsors selling window goop so I figure
these links are OK. Just Google for "windshield adhesive"
and turn up plenty more.
Greetings all. New guy on board.
I have the same issue with my rear window separated. The links above are expired, but I was hoping somebody could confirm that the adhesive is 3M Window-Weld 08609 - as per the link below. Much appreciated. And it's great to see a separate area devoted to convertibles!
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mwinsupfasu.html
04-02-2007, 03:20 PM
#23
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Yes, that is what I used yesterday and it works excellent! I have now 100% fixed the loose material around my rear window.
Still wondering about gluing the canvas to the bows to keep it from ballooning up on the highway. Anybody ?
Still wondering about gluing the canvas to the bows to keep it from ballooning up on the highway. Anybody ?
04-12-2007, 07:49 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by 2002z28ssconv
I just used Gorilla Glue. It's a urethane glue as well. My window was seperated from the canvas at the top of the glass. I propped the top half way open and worked from the back seat. I used 4 C clamps, a 1X2 board and 4 2" chunks of scrap 1X2. If I have to do it again, I'll get some scrap rubber weather stripping or something and put it between the glass and the wood for a steady pressure across the clamping area.
I applied a very light film of the glue to the cloth section and carefully positioned it in the correct location on the glass. Then I clamped the 1X2 to the glass for clamping pressure. The glass is curved so be very careful. Also the 1X2 will want to shift when you clamp it. But it seems to be holding up very well so far over the past week with ~ 1,500 highway miles at 65MPH and above.
I applied a very light film of the glue to the cloth section and carefully positioned it in the correct location on the glass. Then I clamped the 1X2 to the glass for clamping pressure. The glass is curved so be very careful. Also the 1X2 will want to shift when you clamp it. But it seems to be holding up very well so far over the past week with ~ 1,500 highway miles at 65MPH and above.
04-13-2007, 11:19 AM
#26
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I didnt use a clamp at all, with the 3M stuff, you wont need to either. What I did was use a liberal amount of the glue, rubbed it down real good with my fingers, waited for like 15 to 20 min for the glue to stiffin up a bit, then, I go back and press it down really good again. Worked great for me.
04-23-2007, 07:35 AM
#28
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Yep, I did it a week ago. Gotta admit I was skeptical - but like 6-SpeedZ says - it looks like a durable fix - and not that difficult. I gave it about 36 hours before closing the top.
05-04-2007, 10:52 PM
#29
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Okay, now my rear window has basically ripped the whole rear side f my top by dragging. 
Who can tell me a good top replacement route? i have no choice now. Also, should I replace any of the pumps or what not's when doing this? Thanks guys!
Who can tell me a good top replacement route? i have no choice now. Also, should I replace any of the pumps or what not's when doing this? Thanks guys! 
09-07-2007, 03:03 PM
#32
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Any paint body supply house should have it also. I bought a tube for $11 where I live. I only did mine about 3 weeks ago but the stuff seems to be really good and durable.
09-07-2007, 09:19 PM
#33
My rear glass is the same too but I also noticed that on the front of my top, on both the drivers and passengers side about 2" from the end of the top by the windshield there are two areas where it looks like the fabric is wearing on the outside against something when the top is down, two strips about 6" long...wtf!
Oh well, my car is a 99' so a new top is not that hard to imagine, they seem easy to buy on ebay but it the install that scares me, anyone do their own?
09-22-2007, 12:23 PM
#34
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I tried this 2 sided 3m adhesive tape that you can buy from pepboys. Its about half inch wide and its heavy duty. Just clean window and the cloth area with alcohal. Worked great for me, its been about 4 months ago that i put it on, its been in the rain and when i wash the car and has yet to come off. It is still holding strong.
09-22-2007, 07:46 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by DemonSS
I tried this 2 sided 3m adhesive tape that you can buy from pepboys. Its about half inch wide and its heavy duty. Just clean window and the cloth area with alcohal. Worked great for me, its been about 4 months ago that i put it on, its been in the rain and when i wash the car and has yet to come off. It is still holding strong.
10-13-2007, 07:10 PM
#37
Also... the 'without glass' also comes without the fabric around it. if your window is separated, you need BOTH sections of the top; the "top" which is the upper portion of the top, and the "curtain": which is the rear section including bonded in glass. Our tops are two piece, like many tops.
Also, FWIW, there are several suppliers of tops; the ONLY thing worth doing in MY opinion is the original equipment material with the heated defrost back glass. The cost of install is about a grand; the cost of the best quality top and curtain is 550, while the cheapest top/curtain is 350.
10-13-2007, 07:35 PM
#38
IMPORTANT NOTE: 95-02 tops are the same. 94 had a recall, which made them the same as 95+; if your car had the recall, you're good. If not, it may be unique and unavailable from any source; get the recall done. 93 tops are like the 82-93 ones.
Top replacement:
Pumps and all should be fine, just verify the fluid level.
You need to get:
Hold down cables: 2 sizes, 23" and 29", 29" supposedly for Z-28 'verts, not confirmed to be accurate. Around 35/pr
Pads: replace them. They are what keep the top from rubbing the framework when it goes up and down. Around 40/set
Main top with rear window. TWO separate pieces! Material should be HARTZ Stayfast canvas, the OEM material. Window should be glass, tinted, with defroster, as OEM. Cost about 450-650.
An option is to replace the headliner while doing the top; this runs 140-180 for the material.
Install is NOT trivial; a good shop takes about 12 hours to replace a top, and charges between 500 and 1500; 800 for install is fair. DIY... You try, let us know how it goes. I've done motor and trans swaps, and I'm not gonna do my top.
As for parts: buy it on Ebay, you deserve what you get.
There are maybe 5 top manufacturers in the country, and the OEM one is no longer in business. Try to get warranty service from an EBay seller. Try to get competent advise on install or material. They just don't have any expertise with the stuff they sell; and remember, their prices reflect a markup. If they cost less than top quailty stuff after that markup, what do you think the stuff they sell is really worth?
Here is a link to one place I got a good feeling about:
http://www.topsonline.com/index.php?CarmodelID=114
and another:
http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cg...at.cgi?cat=268
Both offer 5 year warranty against the window separating from the fabric. Both have detailed, accurate info. They at least know what material was OEM, and their prices are at least as good as any Ebay seller i ever saw.
The second one offers an install manual if one wanted to try doing it themselves; the first has the best prices.
I'll probably buy the install manual from the second, figure out if I can do it myself, and buy the other stuff, including pad set and cables, from the first guys.
here's a link to FAQs about tops:
http://www.topsonline.com/index.php?Conv_top_q
Last edited by Boodyrider; 10-13-2007 at 07:44 PM.
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03-04-2008, 07:54 AM
#39
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Top seperating from the bows... stated the rear bow is where the problem is and that top needs replaced..
top sags all across the top area and the rear bow is what holds it...run
your hand, above the rear glass and gently pull the material up...you will see
and feel the bow and how it works....anyway think I will try some type of
boding agent....let me know how you made out..
Good Luck