PICS. Coil Relocation C6
01-21-2008, 01:20 AM
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PICS. Coil Relocation C6 What do you guys think, going to machine the mounts off the valve covers and powder coat them wrinkle red. I have about $100 in the project. Also still have to do a little more wire clean up and redo the brake booster hose.
01-21-2008, 02:56 AM
#3
01-21-2008, 09:17 AM
#6
You need to get some better looking valve covers and fuel rails. These valve covers are GMPP and there are many others available from after market vendors. Yours looks great..a LS series engine looks good when you clean it up under the hood and move the coils and get rid of the fuel rail covers ... my only concern with your would be how hot the coils will get in that location ..
01-21-2008, 09:25 AM
#7
Dude! I just went to the engine bay thread to get those pics!!! THOSE are the valve covers that need to go on this car.
By the way, for people voicing concerns about coil temps, there is no way in the hottest day of hell that their location would cause even the slightest chance of microscopic damage. When testing those valve covers that Vengance uses, the ones that enclose the coils, they put the coils in an oven for a long period of time at temps they will never see with no problems. Also, I see no need at all for wire socks. If they're an 1/8" off the primaries, they're good to go, I say.
By the way, for people voicing concerns about coil temps, there is no way in the hottest day of hell that their location would cause even the slightest chance of microscopic damage. When testing those valve covers that Vengance uses, the ones that enclose the coils, they put the coils in an oven for a long period of time at temps they will never see with no problems. Also, I see no need at all for wire socks. If they're an 1/8" off the primaries, they're good to go, I say.
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01-21-2008, 10:40 AM
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You need to get some better looking valve covers and fuel rails. These valve covers are GMPP and there are many others available from after market vendors. Yours looks great..a LS series engine looks good when you clean it up under the hood and move the coils and get rid of the fuel rail covers ... my only concern with your would be how hot the coils will get in that location ..
01-21-2008, 10:43 AM
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Dude! I just went to the engine bay thread to get those pics!!! THOSE are the valve covers that need to go on this car.
By the way, for people voicing concerns about coil temps, there is no way in the hottest day of hell that their location would cause even the slightest chance of microscopic damage. When testing those valve covers that Vengance uses, the ones that enclose the coils, they put the coils in an oven for a long period of time at temps they will never see with no problems. Also, I see no need at all for wire socks. If they're an 1/8" off the primaries, they're good to go, I say.
By the way, for people voicing concerns about coil temps, there is no way in the hottest day of hell that their location would cause even the slightest chance of microscopic damage. When testing those valve covers that Vengance uses, the ones that enclose the coils, they put the coils in an oven for a long period of time at temps they will never see with no problems. Also, I see no need at all for wire socks. If they're an 1/8" off the primaries, they're good to go, I say.
01-21-2008, 10:48 AM
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This is what I am going for, Katech doesn't sell the kit on the C6RS
Last edited by tollway bandit 1; 01-21-2008 at 11:08 AM.
01-21-2008, 11:03 AM
#11
I know what you mean..about $20 at home depot, a set of SBC pulg wires from Summit, and some of my labor was all it took to relocate mine.
PS The LT1 wires have the correct connectors for the LS series coil pacs.
PS The LT1 wires have the correct connectors for the LS series coil pacs.
Last edited by slt200mph; 05-09-2008 at 05:04 PM.
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01-21-2008, 01:48 PM
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In the words of Borat, " YES, is a vedy ni-eece!"
So on top of milling the bosses, you have to take out the spot welded baffling on the underside... so you can clean up the welds on both sides (or remove the baffling, put some steel as a backing plate so the aluminum weld stops, etc)
And then, and then, and then....
Weekend project! 
So on top of milling the bosses, you have to take out the spot welded baffling on the underside... so you can clean up the welds on both sides (or remove the baffling, put some steel as a backing plate so the aluminum weld stops, etc)
And then, and then, and then....
Weekend project!
01-21-2008, 02:21 PM
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In the words of Borat, " YES, is a vedy ni-eece!"
So on top of milling the bosses, you have to take out the spot welded baffling on the underside... so you can clean up the welds on both sides (or remove the baffling, put some steel as a backing plate so the aluminum weld stops, etc)
And then, and then, and then.... Weekend project!
So on top of milling the bosses, you have to take out the spot welded baffling on the underside... so you can clean up the welds on both sides (or remove the baffling, put some steel as a backing plate so the aluminum weld stops, etc)
And then, and then, and then....
Weekend project!