Just got back from 1st time at track!
#1
Just got back from 1st time at track!
Well tonight I took my 2000 M6, Black, WS6 (only 23k miles) to San Antonio Raceway. Car is pretty much stock, with exception of a few bolt-ons. Made 4 passes, with the best being 13.40 @ 109.9mph, but with a horrible 2.54 60' time. I have Nitto Drag Radials but launching the M6 gave me trouble (my last 3 vehicles were all A4's) With my trap speed, do you guys think I could possibly pull a 12.9 w/a decent 60' time? Any input is appreciated.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ashland, Ky
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's possible for sure, but you need that 60' to come down. You have a lot of improvement left in your car. I'm sure some better tires and a few suspension mods would hurt you. Good luck!
#3
That car will run a 12.9 with a 1.9 to 2.0 60' Not sure if you have upgraded the clutch but with a good clutch you can slip it a bit coming out of the hole and get a nice 60' without exploding the rear end. I would think that the car might do even better than a 12.9. (I recently ran a 12.72 in a 2002 Camaro ss with only headers and a tune with really great air and the car was an a4 with a stock converter.... it trapped 109.7 mph)
Keep us posted but be careful with the rear though.
Keep us posted but be careful with the rear though.
#4
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Well tonight I took my 2000 M6, Black, WS6 (only 23k miles) to San Antonio Raceway. Car is pretty much stock, with exception of a few bolt-ons. Made 4 passes, with the best being 13.40 @ 109.9mph, but with a horrible 2.54 60' time. I have Nitto Drag Radials but launching the M6 gave me trouble (my last 3 vehicles were all A4's) With my trap speed, do you guys think I could possibly pull a 12.9 w/a decent 60' time? Any input is appreciated.
Reason: M6 Transmission need a suspension set up un heard of for A4 cars and due to the fact that there is NO slip in a M6 Clutch Transmissions that there is no way to soften the shock to the tires. If your like most others, running a 17" Nitto, there is no side wall give either and in MOST cases you are spinning or bogging. It becomes a switch.
Now on the OFF chance the track has good prep and the car is making a little power over stock, Drag radials CAN work. Also you need to take into consideration DRIVER SKILL. Which you are no Evan Smith.
Some will tell you to "Slip the clutch" and it IMO is a POOR advice to give as you are damaging the clutch set up to make up for poor tire/suspension/driving and you may be able to must a 2.0x to 2.2x 60 foot which in your case is an improvement but your setting yourself up for a clutch job which is not cheap and if you put some good tires and 5k clutch dump, the rear will **** out.
Its a tricky thing racing 6 Speeds and that is NOT to mention messing up a shift and crapping out the transmission.
So long story of the short.
1) Practice, Practice, Practice
2) Do not expect your best times, work on consistancy
3) Buy a Tick Perf. Adjustible Master Cyl
4) At the very least a Slave Fluid Flush and Drill mod if you do not do #3
5) Save for Suspension, CLuch, Rear, and dedicated tire set up.
6) Learn that you NEED a Bias-Ply tire to really be competitive and fast.
7) Buy Line Lock.
Last remark: I have done this enough and spent enough money to know what works. Running a Bias-ply tire will make 90% of everything work and the rest can be tweaked.
BUT until your ready to spend some coin.
Just Have Fun!
#5
FormerVendor
iTrader: (12)
Well tonight I took my 2000 M6, Black, WS6 (only 23k miles) to San Antonio Raceway. Car is pretty much stock, with exception of a few bolt-ons. Made 4 passes, with the best being 13.40 @ 109.9mph, but with a horrible 2.54 60' time. I have Nitto Drag Radials but launching the M6 gave me trouble (my last 3 vehicles were all A4's) With my trap speed, do you guys think I could possibly pull a 12.9 w/a decent 60' time? Any input is appreciated.
Good luck and have fun.
#6
The Honest is No.
Reason: M6 Transmission need a suspension set up un heard of for A4 cars and due to the fact that there is NO slip in a M6 Clutch Transmissions that there is no way to soften the shock to the tires. If your like most others, running a 17" Nitto, there is no side wall give either and in MOST cases you are spinning or bogging. It becomes a switch.
Now on the OFF chance the track has good prep and the car is making a little power over stock, Drag radials CAN work. Also you need to take into consideration DRIVER SKILL. Which you are no Evan Smith.
Some will tell you to "Slip the clutch" and it IMO is a POOR advice to give as you are damaging the clutch set up to make up for poor tire/suspension/driving and you may be able to must a 2.0x to 2.2x 60 foot which in your case is an improvement but your setting yourself up for a clutch job which is not cheap and if you put some good tires and 5k clutch dump, the rear will **** out.
Its a tricky thing racing 6 Speeds and that is NOT to mention messing up a shift and crapping out the transmission.
So long story of the short.
1) Practice, Practice, Practice
2) Do not expect your best times, work on consistancy
3) Buy a Tick Perf. Adjustible Master Cyl
4) At the very least a Slave Fluid Flush and Drill mod if you do not do #3
5) Save for Suspension, CLuch, Rear, and dedicated tire set up.
6) Learn that you NEED a Bias-Ply tire to really be competitive and fast.
7) Buy Line Lock.
Last remark: I have done this enough and spent enough money to know what works. Running a Bias-ply tire will make 90% of everything work and the rest can be tweaked.
BUT until your ready to spend some coin.
Just Have Fun!
Reason: M6 Transmission need a suspension set up un heard of for A4 cars and due to the fact that there is NO slip in a M6 Clutch Transmissions that there is no way to soften the shock to the tires. If your like most others, running a 17" Nitto, there is no side wall give either and in MOST cases you are spinning or bogging. It becomes a switch.
Now on the OFF chance the track has good prep and the car is making a little power over stock, Drag radials CAN work. Also you need to take into consideration DRIVER SKILL. Which you are no Evan Smith.
Some will tell you to "Slip the clutch" and it IMO is a POOR advice to give as you are damaging the clutch set up to make up for poor tire/suspension/driving and you may be able to must a 2.0x to 2.2x 60 foot which in your case is an improvement but your setting yourself up for a clutch job which is not cheap and if you put some good tires and 5k clutch dump, the rear will **** out.
Its a tricky thing racing 6 Speeds and that is NOT to mention messing up a shift and crapping out the transmission.
So long story of the short.
1) Practice, Practice, Practice
2) Do not expect your best times, work on consistancy
3) Buy a Tick Perf. Adjustible Master Cyl
4) At the very least a Slave Fluid Flush and Drill mod if you do not do #3
5) Save for Suspension, CLuch, Rear, and dedicated tire set up.
6) Learn that you NEED a Bias-Ply tire to really be competitive and fast.
7) Buy Line Lock.
Last remark: I have done this enough and spent enough money to know what works. Running a Bias-ply tire will make 90% of everything work and the rest can be tweaked.
BUT until your ready to spend some coin.
Just Have Fun!
No doubt that slipping the clutch is wearing it some but you have to pay to play. If you dump the clutch with sticky tires you will have a broken ten bolt. For ten bolt cars, I say slip the clutch a bit coming out of the hole and save the rear. Here's a video of my stock suspension full weight m6 camaro with a ten bolt. Ran a 12.009 on this pass with a 1.89 60'. Slipped the clutch out of the hole and the 17" drag radials hooked fine. Granted the car would have went mid 11s with a 12 bolt and good traction with a clutch dump.
110 mph in a stock suspension m6 fbody can easily hit 12.9s. Doesn't matter if you are racing motor cycles, quads, or cars, clutch control helps hole shots..... just makes changing the clutch a more frequent event.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU5T2Ts1E4k
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
i think you can def run a 12 sec pass with that car. i wouldn't expect the trap to drop a whole lot, either.
the car in sig did about the same thing. first few trips it went like 14.0 @ 111 then mid 13s @ 109 still spinning. same setup same everything it went 8.29 @ 88 @ an 1/8 mile track (which i know would be a solid 12 sec pass @ 111+). car was stock everything except eibach sportlines, lid and weld in flowmaster. stock weight, wheels, on bfg kdw2s. i had the best luck @ 22lbs in the tires, no burnout, just a couple rolls to clean them off. could get consistent 1.9 60' on them. the trouble was keeping the car straight through 2nd gear.
you can do it, just practice practice practice.
the car in sig did about the same thing. first few trips it went like 14.0 @ 111 then mid 13s @ 109 still spinning. same setup same everything it went 8.29 @ 88 @ an 1/8 mile track (which i know would be a solid 12 sec pass @ 111+). car was stock everything except eibach sportlines, lid and weld in flowmaster. stock weight, wheels, on bfg kdw2s. i had the best luck @ 22lbs in the tires, no burnout, just a couple rolls to clean them off. could get consistent 1.9 60' on them. the trouble was keeping the car straight through 2nd gear.
you can do it, just practice practice practice.
Trending Topics
#9
9 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Well tonight I took my 2000 M6, Black, WS6 (only 23k miles) to San Antonio Raceway. Car is pretty much stock, with exception of a few bolt-ons. Made 4 passes, with the best being 13.40 @ 109.9mph, but with a horrible 2.54 60' time. I have Nitto Drag Radials but launching the M6 gave me trouble (my last 3 vehicles were all A4's) With my trap speed, do you guys think I could possibly pull a 12.9 w/a decent 60' time? Any input is appreciated.
Your car can run in the 12's if it ran 13.40 with a 2.54 60 foot time. The MPH will drop once you cut the 60 foot time down to 2.0 or lower. Our 02 WS6 ran 12.75 at 109.80 MPH's with a lid and Nitto's leaving at 3K RPM's side stepping the clutch at full weight.
Put the tires at 23 PSI heat them up with a good burnout into 2nd gear and at the starting line launch at 2,800 RPM’s to 3,000 RPM’s and side step the clutch it will hook and go!
Good and be safe!
N2
Last edited by N2RACINGLS1's; 01-16-2011 at 03:25 PM.
#12
9 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I agree with AChotrod on the longer burnout however I would pass on his suggestion regarding tire pressure! You will stand a better chance if you stay 20 PSI or higher on a 17 inch Nitto DR so it does not cup and produce a poor 60 foot time.
N2
Last edited by N2RACINGLS1's; 01-16-2011 at 06:41 PM.