Master_TA

Hey everyone I went to the trackand ran a 13.7 with a 2.3 reaction time and only got to 98mph and my other runs were at 102,103. I have a 02 ws6 stock with only a stupid flomaster muffler that was on when i got the car. What should I run about if I get my reastion time down to like .4 or .3? I know there are to many things that can affect it but I thought i did pretty good for the first time runnin this car. Also the track is rumored to have slow track times so im going to a more accurate one april 15th to see if I can get lower and gonna take off that resricting flowmaster =) thanks for any help and god bless

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I'm no expert, but I thought reaction time had nothing
to do with ET. 60' time, that's another story.

I'd expect more MPH gain than ET gain from exhaust
improvements, while traction is the big deal for ET.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

Reaction time doesn't have anything to do with your actual ET. At your power level that flowmaster isn't hurting you but I would suggest a cutout. Simple and cheap power gain. Your 60 foot times are what you need to work on. For every tenth you take of your 60ft you drop 2 tenths on the big end.

Have fun and be safe.

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

Check dragtimes under the da correction tool and see what kid of conditions you were running in.

Also post up a full slip... 60ft and 1/8th mile info fills in a lot of gaps. Time seems slow but if the DA was 2000+ it might be a great pass.

Master_TA

I live in Texas.
here is my timeslip
Reaction:2.319
60:2.136
1/8th mph:81.24
1/8th time:8.891
1/4 mph:98.60
1/4 time:13.715

So from that can you conclude anything that i can do better in?

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

What part of Texas? That trap is terribly low.

Is it an auto or manual?

Reaction time does not affect ET as was already stated.

The biggest thing you can work on here is your 60ft time, and figure out why the car is trapping so low.

What is your elevation?

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

The time doesn't start until you leave the line. You could have sat there for 10 seconds and still ran a 13.70. Thats actually pretty low for a late LS1 fbody. My A4 LT1 ran a 13.60 with a CAI and shorties.

Master_TA

Like I said above the track is known for bad times, as a example one of my buddies new 5.0 ran a 11.9 at the track im going to april 15th, but at this track he couldnt trap any better then a 13.1. So there for I am blamming alittle on the track here. Also btw 13.6 is very good for a LT1 just saying.

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

Post up track name, date and time and I can tell you what the DA was.

Z28GONZO

How and where do you check for DA?? I'm in el paso and my best run so far has been a 14.1 at 103 with a 2.4 60 on street tires. Don't like this altitude I think it's in the 3800+

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

This is what I use...
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php

Just enter track, date and pick the time.

Master_TA

It said the track elevation was 477 above sea level so is the good or bad

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

You have to take in account weather conditions as well... my track is 640ft which is pretty good..but in the summer DA is 2000+ all the time which is bad... in the fall/spring DA can be -1000ft which is epic.

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

That is terrible mph for even a stock 01-02 f-body. Your car is stick or auto?

HRHohio

Here's your plan:
1) Upgrade rear suspension - www.Foundersperformance.com has good prices for your/our level.
. . a) Replace Lower Control Arms (Fixed if not lowered, adjustable if lowered or planning on it)
. . b) Install Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
. . c) Replace Panhard Bar (Fixed if not lowered, adjustable if lowered or planning on it) (Optional at this point, for drag racing)
. . d) Replace Torque Arm (you can hold off on this for a while if you want)
2) Stall Converter - Get a good Stall Converter (Yank, Vigiliante, etc)
. . (Tip) Go high if keeping N/A, i.e. 4000 stall, go lower(tighter) if planning on going turbo or supercharged later, i.e. 3200)
3) Free Ram Air Mod (Google it) or Cold Air intake (K&N Filter either way)
4) Decide on going NA or FI (Decide early because these go down different paths). Options:
. . a) Normally Aspirated (NA) - Headers, y-pipe or true dual exhaust, Do a big Cam (MS3 or MS4 etc)
. . b) Forced Induction (FI) - You have several options under this:
. . i) Supercharger - Most Expensive, lower maintenance steady rise in boost. If you go this route, you will also want to do Headers, y-pipe or Dual (Turbo Cam i.e. LS9 or other)
. . ii) Front Mount Turbo - Can be pretty invasive to the engine compartment. Lower turbo lag. Bigger hp curve than Supercharger, generally. (Turbo Cam i.e. LS9 or other)
. . iii) Rear Mount Turbo - Least invasive to engine compartment, good power, little more turbo lag than front mount, but not appreciable. Cost is about the same as front mount. (This is what I chose). (Turbo Cam i.e. LS9 or other)


5) TUNE - Actually this should be higher on the list, depending on what mods you do. If you do the Stall, you want to do the Tune with it.

Others feel free to add to this (or input your difference of opinion)


Ohhh. TIRES - Don't forget to get some sticky tires on some lightweight wheels to help your 60ft. Mickey Thompson are recommended.
Good Luck!

Master_TA

I know the mph OS low on that run. That's why I think I could pull something better. That was my first ever run with that car.

HRHohio

That's exactly where I was with mine (bone stock +Flowmaster Exhaust). If you put higher gears OR do a Stall, you can shave .5 secs off the ET and up the MPH by 3-4. My best before I went Turbo was 13.3 ET @104. I went against a Nissan GTR that did a 11.3. That was a defining moment for me. It was the moment I realized that I wanted Turbo. ( I had him by 5-6 carlengths off the line. Good RT and had 4.10 gears. THEN he flew by me at the 2/3's mark. All I could do was watch it happen. )

I was going to go headers and big cam and Off Road Y-Pipe up until that moment. Instead I've kept my stock manifolds, stock y-pipe, cats, etc. Put that monty into my Turbo setup with LS9 Cam. Now pushing 551 rwhp. Can't wait to get it out on the track. (Having unrelated electrical problems now that need to be resolved...gremlins).

The point is, you should decide what you want to do "longterm" because some components that you may get, may not work with a different approach. Best examples are headers and big Cam. Good for NA, but you'll have to redo things if you later go FI.