hrcslam

I have this thread on LS1LT1 too.

So, I finally went back to the track. It's been 1 year and a rebuild since the last track day. Here's the meat of it.

Race Weight 3680lbs
DA 5618ft
Mods in sig, Stock rear axle (3.42's) M6. Street tires (295/35ZR18 Continental ExtremContact DWS) at 34PSI.

1st pass:

R/T........0.547
60'.........2.472
330........6.321
1/8 ET....9.279
1/8 MPH..83.41
1000.......11.803
1/4 ET....13.912
1/4 MPH..107.31

Best Pass:

R/T.........0.190
60'..........2.265
330.........6.072
1/8 ET.....9.024
1/8 MPH...83.67
1000.......11.542
1/4ET......13.642
1/4 MPH...108.40

Last Pass (Lost an injector at launch, electrical connector popped off):

R/T..........0.122
60'...........2.465
330..........6.599
1/8 ET......9.788
1/8 MPH....77.07
1000........12.528
1/4 ET......14.809
1/4 MPH....100.03


Average for the night (I improved with each of my 6 runs throughout the night minus the last one):

R/T...........0.2365 (Irrelevant I know, but much better than before, my best here was 0.122)
60'............2.438 (0.203 worse than before my rebuild, Honestly afraid I'll break the rear axle)
330...........6.335 (0.097 worse than before rebuild)
1/8 ET.......9.334 (Improvement of .146, not impressive)
1/8 MPH.....82.275 (Up 7.962 mph from before rebuild)
1000.........11.898 (Improved only 0.375 seconds from before rebuild)
1/4 ET.......14.038 (Improved only 0.577 seconds)
1/4 MPH.....106.10 (Up 9.814 MPH)


My bests improved better than my average, 0.851 seconds faster in the 1/4 and 11.23 MPH faster.

Race weight to trap speed gives me 366rwhp, using the info below my SAE correction factor is 1.132 that brings me to a Dyno matched 414rwhp. So trap speed is good for the DA, but how do I get my ET down? It's embarrassing to me.

Temp was at 82.8°F
Dew Point was 13°F
Humidity was 7%
Baro read 29.80 in/hg
Elevation is 3075 ft
Density Altitude was 5618 ft

So trap speed is good for the DA, but how to I get my ET down? It's embarrassing to me. Shouldn't I be in the high 12's with that trap speed? Or are my tires limiting me that much?

I know, I know, driver mod mostly for time. But is it unrealistic to expect a high 12 low 13 from my car on street tire with a good driver?

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

Not to be mean but your 60foots are terrible, get some mickey thompson et streets and you'll cut minimum of a 1/2 second, probably closer to .7-.8

hrcslam

Yeah, I know. I'm on the stock 7.5" and honestly afraid of breaking it. My 60' is worse than stock I'm so afraid of launching hard. Ugh.

I can take the criticism, that's why I posted this thread.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I am sorry man but every time I see these threads (which is all the time) complaining about track times while at the same time running god damned street tires it just stupefies the hell out of me LOL!

Op, get some god damned track tires and report back bro seriously

hrcslam

So mid 13's on streets with a 108 trap is normal? Not sure the 7.5" can handle drag radials. Can it?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I would have to say with that DA and race weight that trap is not bad at all.
As for the 7.5 only you sir can make the call on chancing it or not. Some break some don't. You being a manual puts you on the bad side of history.
Any plans for a rear in that cars future?

hrcslam

I'm torn between ~$700 for 3.90's, girdle, and support bars on my 7.5" or $2600 on a 12bolt/9"/S60 set up.

You guys can see in the runs that I'm babying it off the line pretty bad. My stock baseline runs had better 60' times than I do now. I've jumped a lot in power so it's all in my right foot. I know.

I'd prefer to have my times match what I'm running on the street. The tires have more traction in them then what my 60' shows, it's my right foot keeping it down. I know drag radials will improve my short time, but want to keep the configuration the same as I run on the street.

Are mid 13 second times with my configuration normal then? I'm not disappointed with the trap (I could probably get that to 109) I was just expecting a low 13 to high 12 et's. Expecting too much here?

If I got my 60' down to 2.0-2.1 would that get me to low 13's? Are 2.0-2.1 60' times unreasonable on street tires?

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

It's all in the 60ft. Good tires and let it rip like you mean it. Don't waste money in the 10 bolt.

carolinaSS

iTrader: (1)

shed weight, better tires, and better da will be a huge improvement. If money is short I'd get the s60, if not get the mwc 9"

hrcslam

I'm not building a drag car, but it will see the track occasionally. Am I expecting too much for street tires to cut a low 13 second pass with my 108 trap speed? And is it o.k to cut a 2.0-2.1 60' on the stock rear behind an M6? Next time I go I should have the girdle and support bars on so I'll launch harder.

PA94Z

iTrader: (1)

2.0 - 2.1 60's aren't out of reach with a sticky street tire on a well prepped track. I cut a 1.89(Auto) and ran 12.9 with bolt ons, on Goodyear TripleTred all season tires. Those are H rated passenger car tires - and were the stickiest all season tires I found - in a 225 width to!

The 10 bolt on the other hand ... I have seen guys with manuals break them at the track running 13.5's in around 2000 - 3000 DA. You definitely have enough power to break it. Best investment to the 7.5 would be a spare one.

That car if driven right should be capable of 12.4 -12.5's at your DA easily. If you aren't willing to put bias ply tires and a real rear end in it though, it will never see its potential. Low 13's to high 12's would be the best case scenario in my opinion.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

you need more seat time !
get some MT drag radials !
Start lauching at 2500 rpms sliping the clutch and work your way up in rpm the better you get.
Good luck

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

You can only expect what your tires/setup will realistically allow you to do.
You're against putting sticky tires on the car so you're limited. Street tires are dictating how the car is going to 60' there's no way around it. You can improve that time a lot in better DA or you can try giving it more throttle out of the hole. But again it goes back to the same thing...will your street tires allow it?

108mph was good for 1.946 12.7 108.88 in my car when it was bolt on only with stock stall and drag radials of course. Only time I EVER hooked with street tires is when the track was hot and I was first in line. It was actually my very first time going down the 1/4. Car did 2.092 13.19 106.93. After this I never hooked again on street tires even in a stock stall auto. So I picked up some DRs and realized going to the track with street tires is a waste of time. That's how I feel about it

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

if you could manage a 2.0 60 that would net you around a 13.2

hrcslam

Thanks, so seat time is mostly my problem from low 13's? I figured as much, lol. My tires have more bite left in them, but I'm not sure how much more. Track prep was pretty good I think. One guy running a Chevy Mustang (LOL) cut a 1.415 short time not sure if he was running slicks or radials I didn't look that hard. His burn out was short if that means anything.

My axle is my biggest concern. I'm not sure $700 is worth the gamble on the stock unit. That's why I'm torn between that and the $2600 9"/S60/12Bolt. I've heard success stories of the girdle/support bars on a 7.5" but I believe that was on an automatic he was cutting 1.4-1.5 60' times.

Yeah, I wish I had more track time available. I had to take a night off work just to go to the track. Friday Night Drags, and I work every Friday Night. Ugh.

I am getting sucked in though. lol.

Next time I make it to the track I'll try that.

What I did was rev to about 2K, then at the 2nd yellow I'd let up slightly on the clutch to take up drive train slack (the car didn't move). At the 3rd yellow I'd quickly roll off the clutch until I was moving, then I'd roll into the throttle. As you can see that didn't result in the greatest 60' time. This didn't bog the engine at all, but sucked short time for sure.

Next time I'll rev higher and slip on the clutch as I roll into the throttle. That's what you're saying right? Or are you saying hold 2500 slipping the clutch until it's all the way out, then hammer it?

Were you on the stock rear end when you cut the 1.946 60' on drag radials? What gears too? If I end up going the S60/9"/12 Bolt set up I will throw some slicks on it and let her rip! LOL.

2.0 can be had with street tires right? Which street tires actually do this, Nitto 555r's? My Conti's work way better than my Goodyear Eagle F1's did. My Hancook Ventus V12's handle great and never slip no matter how hard I brake, literally full pedal stops with zero slip mid turn no anti-lock engagement either. I wonder if they'd do alright in acceleration too.

Thanks for the advise guys!

PA94Z

iTrader: (1)

2600 gets you the base S60 with a spool. A bullet proof rear for sure, but a spool is not very turn friendly. Add on 150$ if you want it powder coated, and freight charges. It is the best bang for the money you can get though... The 12 bolt shouldn't even be an option if you are getting a new rear. Not strong enough especially for the money. Eric at Midwest Chassis can get you a S60 at a very good price because they are a Strange dealer. Any other stuff you want to be will get discounted with the purchase to. Shocks, suspension, Kmember etc.

hrcslam

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I quoted out an S60 from Strange through a local dealer here in Tucson for $2600, full bolt in with 3.90's and limited slip.

98CayenneT/A

The 555r is a drag radial, I had them last year and was consistent 2.0xx 60' and ran 13.24@107.1 last year I was also a 2.73 car with stock converter. As far as the ten bolt, I now have 3.73s with a studed girdle and am in the middle of putting a yank 3600 converter in with nt05r drag radials on back, I think I will get another summer out of the ten bolt and I will not be kind to it, if it goes it goes but am not to worried about it right now with me being a auto

hrcslam

Thanks, I did not know the 555r's were DR's. Thanks for that info. So the 555r's would suck at turning then?

I'm thinking I can be a little more aggressive with my rear than lead to believe....

98CayenneT/A

Nope, they handle very well, in general. Drag radials in general handle pretty good, I would not let that be something that holds ya up from getting a drag radial. If your looking at. Nt555r I would just skip right to the nt05r or mt and let her rip. cut a 1.9-2.0 60' and run your low 13.1x - 13.2x