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Old 06-03-2009, 12:42 AM   #1
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Default Wiring diagram for a battery disconnect.

I am thinking about doing this, and did a search. I am still confused. Here is a diagram I found. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...disconnect.gif

What I have learned so far is that I will need to have my alt. rebuilt to push 145 amps. I will need a 4 post cut off switch like the Moroso part # MOR-74101.

What I need to know is what gauge wire to run and to where? I keep reading 2 gauge.. but 2 gauge to what? What PCM wire do I need to connect to the disconnect switch on a '99 Camaro? I have read so many different ways to do this. Yes this is a street car, but I am certain there has to be a way to do this and not lose any driveability.

The diagram would help a ton if it specified what gauge wire to use and where, and what PCM wire to connect to.

Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:50 AM   #2
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Seems awful complicated to me... All I did was rewire the alternator output wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. When the switch was pushed, power from the battery and alternator are cut to the PCM and the car shuts off. 2ga from the alternator to the battery should be fine - not sure why you need 145amp alternator...
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28 View Post
not sure why you need 145amp alternator...

Page 1 and the 1st reply (By Madman)

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-r...in-issues.html
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:28 AM   #4
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Even with a 145A alternator 2ga should be more than enough from the output to battery. With your underdrive pulley it probably isnt a bad idea to step up to a higher output alternator but if youre not running huge draw (fans, big pump, etc) the stocker should be able to handle it. Mine worked fine when it was just a bolt on car.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:39 AM   #5
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I used 2 ga from battery to switch, and switch to starter. Then 6 ga from starter to junction block on passenger fender. Also 6 ga from stock alternator directly to positive post on battery. Starts fine and switch kills everything. Just make sure your connections are good, I crimped and soldered mine. Aslo make sure you have plenty of grounds.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:40 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain InsaneO View Post
I am thinking about doing this, and did a search. I am still confused. Here is a diagram I found. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...disconnect.gif

What I have learned so far is that I will need to have my alt. rebuilt to push 145 amps. I will need a 4 post cut off switch like the Moroso part # MOR-74101.

What I need to know is what gauge wire to run and to where? I keep reading 2 gauge.. but 2 gauge to what? What PCM wire do I need to connect to the disconnect switch on a '99 Camaro? I have read so many different ways to do this. Yes this is a street car, but I am certain there has to be a way to do this and not lose any driveability.

The diagram would help a ton if it specified what gauge wire to use and where, and what PCM wire to connect to.

Thanks.
i made this a few years ago for someone and luckily still had it on my photobucket so here ya go. i think this is what you are looking for. hope this helps.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:50 AM   #7
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Man, those diagrams seem to over complicate things. Maybe its just my simple minded thinking. Anywho, this is the dummy down version of a wiring diagram that I used. This passes NHRA specs.

oh btw, Captain InsaneO- LOL. Love that name. Good choice.

Disregard the amp box section if you don't have one.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:47 AM   #8
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I really appreciate the replies!

Now.. 9sec93 you are running a 4 post cut off switch, and Bitemark.. are you running a 2 post? I do have an amp as well.
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:17 PM   #9
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Yes, I run a 2 post switch (flaming river).
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain InsaneO View Post
I really appreciate the replies!

Now.. 9sec93 you are running a 4 post cut off switch, and Bitemark.. are you running a 2 post? I do have an amp as well.
yes i have the 4 post switch. also with an amp i would think you would want to hook it up to the battery itself or the battery side of the switch.
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:24 PM   #11
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So depending on which diagram I choose determins if I go with a 2 post or a 4 post disconnect switch. I assume one disconnect switch is not better than the other?
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:41 PM   #12
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Ya I haven't heard either giving anyone any problems. Its probably a choice of how you want to mount it would be the difference in getting either.
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:55 PM   #13
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Ok after more research I have found that I need to decide which battery disconnect switch to use. A push/pull type (With the rod), or one with an "on off" lever. It appears the drawback of the "on off" one is that the rear panel may crack, and after looking at the Flaming River unit, I don't see how it would mount securely to the rear panel.

I don't really like the push pull rod type. They stick out too far, and I have an amp rack that mounts to the back of the hatch, so mounting it anywhere other than underneath the pass. side tail light is not an option.

Are there any other drawbacks to using the lever type? Has anyone mounted a lever type switch in the rear panel as I described, and if so have you had any issues?
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:08 PM   #14
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I decided to go with the Flaming River Battery Disconnect Kill Switch FR1003.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitemark46 View Post
Man, those diagrams seem to over complicate things. Maybe its just my simple minded thinking. Anywho, this is the dummy down version of a wiring diagram that I used. This passes NHRA specs.

oh btw, Captain InsaneO- LOL. Love that name. Good choice.

Disregard the amp box section if you don't have one.
Click the image to open in full size.

I like this plan. Looks simple.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:43 PM
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