355 LT1 break in! What oil to use????
06-30-2009, 07:54 PM
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355 LT1 break in! What oil to use???? So I have a freshly rebuilt 355 LT1 with all forged internals and a cc306 and I want to run full synthetic all though I'm curious if it's a good idea or not to run this for the break in period. I want to end up with Mobile 1 or some amsoil! What do you guys suggest for the breakin???? I've always been told to stick with one or the other and not to be swapping around so Does it matter to much or what, I mean I'll be changing the oil at 500 anyways right? Should I swap to Full synthetic after or start with it? Looking for opinions and suggestions for sure, so let'em rip! Thanks again Steve
07-01-2009, 04:08 AM
#2
I used conventional castrol 10w30 for mine with intentions of switching to syntethic. I'm still using conventional since I change the oil after nearly every race anyway. I've been told to break in on conventional and then switch to synthetic due to the ingreidents differences in the two oils. I have no proof, background or knowledge of what's preferred to defend that theory though!
07-01-2009, 05:27 AM
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Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
(Scroll 3/4 of the way down the page for break-in oils......)
07-01-2009, 07:42 AM
#6
Almost all recommondations state a consistant 30 weight for break in, using oil that can thin while breaking the motor in can take life away. Will it blow the motor? Absolutly not but to do it properly.
Keep it Straight 30w for the 1st 20 mins of the break in, drain and change filter, The do 200-300 miles, change again, and then go to whatever oil you prefer. I have done this on dozens of motors and all looked perfect if I took it down, broke it down, and inspected.
Ultimately its up to the owners decision and there are certainly variations on opinions but for mine, its consistant, measurable, and reasonable. I used Castrol GTX btw and a GM/AC delco filter.
Keep it Straight 30w for the 1st 20 mins of the break in, drain and change filter, The do 200-300 miles, change again, and then go to whatever oil you prefer. I have done this on dozens of motors and all looked perfect if I took it down, broke it down, and inspected.
Ultimately its up to the owners decision and there are certainly variations on opinions but for mine, its consistant, measurable, and reasonable. I used Castrol GTX btw and a GM/AC delco filter.
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07-01-2009, 08:34 AM
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Anything with lots of Zinc and Phosphorus. But truly, any decent motor oil in the 30 weight range (SAE 30). More important is the frequent drain intervals. I would run some type of break in oil for the first 20 minutes or 50 miles, or whatever then switch to synthetic. IMO
07-01-2009, 08:35 AM
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Almost all recommondations state a consistant 30 weight for break in, using oil that can thin while breaking the motor in can take life away. Will it blow the motor? Absolutly not but to do it properly.
Keep it Straight 30w for the 1st 20 mins of the break in, drain and change filter, The do 200-300 miles, change again, and then go to whatever oil you prefer. I have done this on dozens of motors and all looked perfect if I took it down, broke it down, and inspected.
Ultimately its up to the owners decision and there are certainly variations on opinions but for mine, its consistant, measurable, and reasonable. I used Castrol GTX btw and a GM/AC delco filter.
Keep it Straight 30w for the 1st 20 mins of the break in, drain and change filter, The do 200-300 miles, change again, and then go to whatever oil you prefer. I have done this on dozens of motors and all looked perfect if I took it down, broke it down, and inspected.
Ultimately its up to the owners decision and there are certainly variations on opinions but for mine, its consistant, measurable, and reasonable. I used Castrol GTX btw and a GM/AC delco filter.
07-01-2009, 08:44 AM
#10
I might try out Penz Platnium, If at Walmart for that much I will get some. I only drive it enough for MAYBE 2 oil changes a year (3-4k miles) so for me it would be worth it and it only has 40k on the clock. I had been using Mobile Clean 5000 and never had an issue.
I hear really great things about the Penzoil and I already use their Synchromesh so I will go from there!
I hear really great things about the Penzoil and I already use their Synchromesh so I will go from there!
07-01-2009, 10:30 AM
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So I'm gathering that I need to use a 30W! Ok and to change the oil around 50 miles or so and then to take the car out and due several heat cycles ranging from 3500-4000 then, after this I'll be ranging from 5000-5800 to seat the rings. Got it, anything else I should know?
07-01-2009, 11:30 AM
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Every philosophy is different. If your not sure you should be hammering it, then you probably shouldn't be. A little care now will go a long way to ensuring your engine will perform as you intended and stay in one piece.
I've Heard this in the past as one approach. I'm not sure if i subscribe to it or not.
50-250 miles low rpm with "zings" to 3000
251-750 " " " " " to 4500
751-1000 " " " " " to red line
The key factor for me is engine load. Its easy for an engine to spin at 3000 rpm until the pedal is floored, when it takes on a 80-100% load. Thats what stresses engine parts. Be conscious of load and take it easy for a bit. Also, is it an M6 or A4? Bedding in the clutch for a few hundred miles can be important too.
I've Heard this in the past as one approach. I'm not sure if i subscribe to it or not.
50-250 miles low rpm with "zings" to 3000
251-750 " " " " " to 4500
751-1000 " " " " " to red line
The key factor for me is engine load. Its easy for an engine to spin at 3000 rpm until the pedal is floored, when it takes on a 80-100% load. Thats what stresses engine parts. Be conscious of load and take it easy for a bit. Also, is it an M6 or A4? Bedding in the clutch for a few hundred miles can be important too.
Last edited by Ice78Transam; 07-01-2009 at 11:35 AM.
07-01-2009, 01:00 PM
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It has a built 4l60e with a vigilanti 3200 stall, so maybe take it easy for a bit but yet get it up to 3000 rpm or so and maybe let it slow down by itself with out the break and then do various rpm's upwards. Also should I run it only for a certain amount of time and then let it cool down for the night and then maybe the next day do it again for a few days and then WOT!
07-01-2009, 06:40 PM
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Anything with lots of Zinc and Phosphorus. But truly, any decent motor oil in the 30 weight range (SAE 30). More important is the frequent drain intervals. I would run some type of break in oil for the first 20 minutes or 50 miles, or whatever then switch to synthetic. IMO
