M6 60ft help
#1
M6 60ft help
I need a little help with my 60ft
Car has bolton's, monster clutch, MWC 9", UMI Lowers and SFC's. Stock shocks, front sway bar removed - full weight.
Tires are 26x11.5x15 ET Streets on Street Lites.
5000+rpm quick slip = 1.75 60ft and some spinning. 6000rpm didn't get me anything it'd spin hard to a high 1.7 60ft.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpIX3HdVQbk
I can drop the lower control arms one more hole on the rear end.
The torque arm is in the 2nd hole up from the bottom.
I think if I drop the control arms to the last hole it'll hit the tires harder and hook better. Am I going the right way?
Should I move the torque arm as well? Which way?
Thanks Guys
Car has bolton's, monster clutch, MWC 9", UMI Lowers and SFC's. Stock shocks, front sway bar removed - full weight.
Tires are 26x11.5x15 ET Streets on Street Lites.
5000+rpm quick slip = 1.75 60ft and some spinning. 6000rpm didn't get me anything it'd spin hard to a high 1.7 60ft.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpIX3HdVQbk
I can drop the lower control arms one more hole on the rear end.
The torque arm is in the 2nd hole up from the bottom.
I think if I drop the control arms to the last hole it'll hit the tires harder and hook better. Am I going the right way?
Should I move the torque arm as well? Which way?
Thanks Guys
#2
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what was your tire pressure at and what gear do you have ? and i never could get the 26's to hook.... once i went to the 28's and a rear drag bar things got a hole lot better .... whats are your front shocks at ? you defiantly need to get the weight transferred to the rear of the car
#5
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burnout is fine
15-18 psi worked for me with 26 ET's and nailed 1.59-1.60 60'
looks like you need a drag bar for sure, also kinda looks like the the rear axle is being pushed into the floor. Try moving the front mount one notch up.
Change ONE thing at a time. Keep everything the same and only change the TA setting and go from there.
get a 2 step, will help cut down on variables.
.02 FWIW
15-18 psi worked for me with 26 ET's and nailed 1.59-1.60 60'
looks like you need a drag bar for sure, also kinda looks like the the rear axle is being pushed into the floor. Try moving the front mount one notch up.
Change ONE thing at a time. Keep everything the same and only change the TA setting and go from there.
get a 2 step, will help cut down on variables.
.02 FWIW
#6
I'm ordering a 2 step this afternoon.
The rear sway bar and QA1's seem like a good idea - I'd like to make what I have work, but if it's going to be a uphill fight I might as well consider replacing them.
With the 2 step I can get it consistent and then start making changes.
On the QA1's should I do the fronts first? Looks like I need there springs and such for the install.
The rear sway bar and QA1's seem like a good idea - I'd like to make what I have work, but if it's going to be a uphill fight I might as well consider replacing them.
With the 2 step I can get it consistent and then start making changes.
On the QA1's should I do the fronts first? Looks like I need there springs and such for the install.
#7
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Is the front sway bar connected?
You started to spin cause the nose is too stiff. Your tire pressure is fine. The Driver side rear didn't seem to squat so you have load on the tires (good thing). I'd get the nose looser before chaning the rear geometry.
-Mark
You started to spin cause the nose is too stiff. Your tire pressure is fine. The Driver side rear didn't seem to squat so you have load on the tires (good thing). I'd get the nose looser before chaning the rear geometry.
-Mark
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#10
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I'm ordering a 2 step this afternoon.
The rear sway bar and QA1's seem like a good idea - I'd like to make what I have work, but if it's going to be a uphill fight I might as well consider replacing them.
With the 2 step I can get it consistent and then start making changes.
On the QA1's should I do the fronts first? Looks like I need there springs and such for the install.
The rear sway bar and QA1's seem like a good idea - I'd like to make what I have work, but if it's going to be a uphill fight I might as well consider replacing them.
With the 2 step I can get it consistent and then start making changes.
On the QA1's should I do the fronts first? Looks like I need there springs and such for the install.
.02
#11
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I do pretty long burnouts with et streets. I have gone 1.45 with 26 11.50/16's(actually 1.45 with 27/10.50/15 and 28/10.50s/15's too)
what is the angle of the lCA? did you set the pinion angle using the driveshaft angle or driveline angle. driveshaft angle never worked for me.
what is the angle of the lCA? did you set the pinion angle using the driveshaft angle or driveline angle. driveshaft angle never worked for me.
#12
I set the pinion angle using the driveshaft angle. This is how Eric at Midwest Chassis explained it to me. I set it 2* down from the driveshaft. I'm not familiar with the driveline angle. I'm assuming you check the angle of the balancer and the angle of the yoke.
I'll have to check the angle on the lower control arms. I seem to recall 2* down hill toward the rearend.
I have more videos from Wednesday if it'd help - I'll upload them.
I'll have to check the angle on the lower control arms. I seem to recall 2* down hill toward the rearend.
I have more videos from Wednesday if it'd help - I'll upload them.
Last edited by nocooler; 08-14-2009 at 09:19 PM.
#13
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Im in same boat, same setup but, I have front single adj. Strange shocks and #275 springs. Rears I have Strange cheap 3 way adjustables ( sim. to comp engineering).
Bolt on 6speed with 4.11 rear gear in a Midwest 9" and 26x 11.5 et streets. Last trip out ran great but I thought my 60' would be better. Best was 1.67 and average around 1.73. I was coming out at about 5k and tires at 15Psi. I set Lcas to a 2* uphill and a -2 pinion angle. Subscribing to thread
Bolt on 6speed with 4.11 rear gear in a Midwest 9" and 26x 11.5 et streets. Last trip out ran great but I thought my 60' would be better. Best was 1.67 and average around 1.73. I was coming out at about 5k and tires at 15Psi. I set Lcas to a 2* uphill and a -2 pinion angle. Subscribing to thread
#16
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Also you need a drag bar your hitting the right rear tire hard and lifting the left rear a little making it spin. Also i am running my lca in the stock hole. I cut a 1.46 and a 1.49 60 last time out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XagP_KLPCRk
I have he same 2 step as you very easy to set up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XagP_KLPCRk
I have he same 2 step as you very easy to set up
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Rob
#19
Also you need a drag bar your hitting the right rear tire hard and lifting the left rear a little making it spin. Also i am running my lca in the stock hole. I cut a 1.46 and a 1.49 60 last time out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XagP_KLPCRk
I have he same 2 step as you very easy to set up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XagP_KLPCRk
I have he same 2 step as you very easy to set up
I really miss how easy my T-type was to launch. Set the ebrake - build 10psi - let it go - cut low 1.5's all day.
The stick is a challenge - but it's also fun.
#20
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yea its a fight but when you get it down its alot of fun. i just got my pro 5.0 shifter in today and man what a diff. I have been running the stock hurst and man that shifter was worn out 3rd was so sloppy and hard to hit but know i can shift so fast i love it.