IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

If you have a 10 pt. cage are the SFC's needed. I would assume so but that is some extra weight to carry around if not. I;m just trying to find some more ways to lighten my pig up. 3530 race weight.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If I recall, I beleive most fab guys leave them in place when doing up the 10 PT. Are you going Chromoly?? I never seen anyone persay cutting out SFC's as far as 6 and 10 pts go.

What have you done to lighten the car, I am looking at the pics and I do not know if it is updated...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you 25.x a car the sfc's can go, any other time I'd leave them in

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I have bmr k member and upper and lower control arms. Kirkey race seats. Bogart welded rt's. I have removed heat, ac, ps,power brakes I did the manuel brake conversion, abs, front and rear impact beams,vfn bolt on hood, air bags exept steering wheel. I have all factory glass carpet and door panels. The 3530 race weight was with me 230, 15lbs bottle and nano both full and about 6 gallons of fuel.

I know I still need the drag brakes and the manuel rack.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Drag brakes are about 100 lbs if you do all the lines over and put a manual master in.

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I have a wolfe mild steel 10 point in the car now. I have been told that the chromoly would only be 20-30 pounds lighter than the mild steel cage.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

20 to 30 lbs, I'd say at least. It's about .2 of a lb for every foot of tubing if I remember correctly.

Bigger deal, is that you can never add onto mild steel to build anything faster then a 7.50 cert. Car has to be chromoly to cert faster then 7.50, if you never plan on that it's not the end of the world, but if you go to sell the car, it may or may not hurt your sale.

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

If I upgrade I plan on scraping the cage and going with a chromoly set up

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

You will need to leave the sub-frame connectors in. As JL ws-6 said, the only time you would need to remove the sfc's would be when you install a major cage like a 25.3 or something along those lines.

Reason why is it helps the car's chassis stay as strong as possible. Safety is another reason, more or less as a just-in-case type thing.

01sscam

You definitely want to leave the subframe connectors on the car. I'd also do a k member, a arms, remove any unneeded heat shields, sound deadening under carpet, door bars, and firewall insulation. A speedglass rear window wouldn't be a bad idea, and also a lightweight battery(pc680). I'll add some more to the list as I remember.

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

How good does that speed glass look. Can you tell its not a stock rear glass.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

they have a drop-in speedglass now. It's already blacked out around the edges, and pre-fit. We have one here at the shop right now, we're waitin to install.. i'll post up some pics when we're done with the car.

give me a call at the shop if you have any questions about the speed glass. our number is 225-673-3533.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The drop in speedglass looks just like stock glass when installed and glued, just get the rubber edging for stock glass and put that on too, and it will look just like stock.

Don't waste your time with that junk PC680 battery. That thing is useless, they have no cranking power and will die from just sitting around. Leave a full size battery in the car, just move it to the trunk.

nickp

iTrader: (2)

how much weight does the speed glass drop in save over the factory hatch glass? what is the going price on one?

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

The weight savings of a drop in rear glass is 30# from stock. I can get you one for $399.95 clear or $408 tinted, plus freight.