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Going to try 26" tire insted of 28".

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Old 02-10-2010, 01:34 PM   #1
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Default Going to try 26" tire insted of 28".

I am running a 275-60-15 M/T DR right now and it is working good but I want to try a 26" tire and see if it will bring my 60' down any if I can get it to hook. I have a set of 26-11.5-15 M/T ET-Streets that are almost new and want to give them a try but I have a few questions and want your opinions.

1) the car is 60'ing 1.50 right now with a best of 1.47 on the 275-60-15s do you think I will get the 26"s to hook at all?

2) We have an 1/8th mile we run here and the cars best pass is a 6.72 @ 106mph, if it will hook will I see any difference?

3) how much will it change my shift points?
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:23 PM   #2
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You need to do the calculations based on tire height, it could slow you down in the end.
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:38 PM   #3
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With your power level I doubt your 60' issues are from the 28's. You will most likely 60' worse.

And stock internals? You mean bottom end? It says h/c.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:31 PM   #4
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I can just about promise you, unless you just can't keep it off the bumper like it is, you will 60' worse on shorter tires. Taller tires make more difference in traction than wider.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:21 PM   #5
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I cut a 1.42 60 foot on a 26x11.5x15 M&H Racemaster cheater slick. My power level was 463hp 414tq on my M6,ls1. And we all know the a4 60's better. I Now have a 500+hp 402ci. if you can't get a good 60 foot from a 26'' tire,your suspen needs work.
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:49 PM   #6
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Here is what I have always been told (I know very little about playing with tire sizes and what not)..
A taller tire such as a 28" will 60' worse but let you pull better up top..
A short tire such as a 26" will 60' better but hinder up top.

Reason being is because it doesn't take as long for the 26" to start its rotation but once it does it has to spin more to get you the same distance.. Hope that made sense..

Of course this theory is taking in that you can dead hook on the 26" and the 28".. I always thought you stayed with the smallest tire possible until you couldn't hook anymore and then you moved up.

I am on a 26X10-15 Hoosier slick right now.. I am in the 1.47-1.50 range on motor and have not sprayed it yet, sure I will dead hook even on the spray.. I run 1/8 mile. Race weight is 3500 or so.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:33 PM   #7
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The real best way to 60ft is the tallest tire you can fit will the lowest gearing possible for your power level.
Why do you think the SS/SE guys use such huge gears and 30" tires.

Lemons on the spray youll prob need taller tires to keep from shifting into OD.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:39 PM   #8
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I don't see you picking anything up with the smaller tire.
FWIW, I went 1.51 on a 275-50-15 MT radial, my car had a Vig3600 & h/c, it made 420rwhp.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:22 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by AChotrod View Post
The real best way to 60ft is the tallest tire you can fit will the lowest gearing possible for your power level.
Why do you think the SS/SE guys use such huge gears and 30" tires.

Lemons on the spray youll prob need taller tires to keep from shifting into OD.
I have a street car that I run around with on normal tires so that is out of the question.

Even in the 1/8? I will only be hitting around 105mph or so..
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:38 AM   #10
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I 60' a 1.506 on a mt 255/50-16 tire. 26'. car has 424 hp with a 3600 vig. 3.73 gears
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:02 AM   #11
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I 60' amazing for my power levels I suppose.. I only put down 375... Although on a normal dyno it would be around 400-410, but for its weight and power level I think it does well above average..

I am just wondering if I would benefit with any other tire granted traction with all sizes on hand.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AChotrod View Post
The real best way to 60ft is the tallest tire you can fit will the lowest gearing possible for your power level.
Why do you think the SS/SE guys use such huge gears and 30" tires.

Lemons on the spray youll prob need taller tires to keep from shifting into OD.
This is the way I thought it worked and I went with 3.73 gears and a 28" tire and now I am wondering if I should have went with 3.90's or 4.11's with the 28" tire. This is the main reason for trying this to see how the car reacts with a little more gear the cheep way.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:28 AM   #13
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With your power level I doubt your 60' issues are from the 28's. You will most likely 60' worse.

And stock internals? You mean bottom end? It says h/c.

Stock bottom end!! Fixed sig!
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:00 AM   #14
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So, a 1.42 60' is good?

350" Stock Eliminator cars, foot braking on 9" tires go (often low) 1.30s all the time.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
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So, a 1.42 60' is good?

350" Stock Eliminator cars, foot braking on 9" tires go (often low) 1.30s all the time.
and how much money does it take to build one of those???
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:30 AM   #16
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lots of guys running hoosier 26x8.5 going 1.2x's in Outlaw8.5. a bunch of them are still running stock suspension too.

the tire has it in it, does your car have the rest of the needed equipment to make it happen though?
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:48 AM   #17
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and how much money does it take to build one of those???
I think the point ER was trying to make was that although stock eliminator cars are very limited, due to rules, in making power they still 60' VERY well in order to get the most out of the cars.
Alot of SE guys run 30x9" tires and I followed their blueprint as far as suspension goes with my own car. My car makes more power than a SE car so I used a slightley wider tire but the same concept applies, IMO, up to around mid 9's (N/A of course).
That concept is to get good weight transfer with little resistance and you do that with a tall, thinner tire (and with alot of other stuff).
I've seen SE cars on a hot day 60 in the mid 1.3's while only turning a low 11 sec 1/4 mile and YOU CAN DO IT TO with simple stock style replacement components and some chassis stiffening (subrames, 6 pt etc.)

OP, I have no doubt you will after your very 1st track outing with a set of 26"ers

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Old 02-11-2010, 02:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemons12 View Post
Here is what I have always been told (I know very little about playing with tire sizes and what not)..
A taller tire such as a 28" will 60' worse but let you pull better up top..
A short tire such as a 26" will 60' better but hinder up top.

Reason being is because it doesn't take as long for the 26" to start its rotation but once it does it has to spin more to get you the same distance.. Hope that made sense..

Of course this theory is taking in that you can dead hook on the 26" and the 28".. I always thought you stayed with the smallest tire possible until you couldn't hook anymore and then you moved up.

I am on a 26X10-15 Hoosier slick right now.. I am in the 1.47-1.50 range on motor and have not sprayed it yet, sure I will dead hook even on the spray.. I run 1/8 mile. Race weight is 3500 or so.
Any of the gurus have any input?
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:30 PM   #19
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The RPM threw the traps is what determines my tires. Rule of thumb is go as tall as possible while not dropping the RPMs to low or shifting into OD crossing the line. Both kill ET.
You want to be at the limiter crossing the traps. Gearing also plays a big part in this.
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:44 PM   #20
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I'm from the club that says go with more tire than you need (particularly in a bracket race), and match the tire / redline via the appropriate gear.

If you run tire limited class guess you can't go w/ more tire than you need.

I love watching these big tire cars that run in the 10's with open headers. I think to myself "what a waste".
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