SScam68

iTrader: (20)

Has anybody made the OEM window motors work with out the use of the BCM?

Yes I ran a search in the Drag tech section but could not get a definitive answer.

87Lt1Monte

iTrader: (1)

Im not 100% that this is what you are looking for but i think this might work instead of changing the motors.. agian im not 100% sure but im going to be trying these soon..
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...roduct+I+found
Here is another website with more information about this product
http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/hot_fe...erseModule.pdf

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

also need to know this as i dont want to run a BCM and want to hard wire everything. From what i heard youll only need a relay to supply the power then just need to figure out what the leads on the switches do for signal, power, ground etc. Shouldnt be anything special, its just a electric motor ran off a switch (from what i think). Subscribing if im wrong as i need to do this.

87Lt1Monte

iTrader: (1)

I have heard the only problem is that you have to use +12 and -12 and switch them to reverse the motor .. from what smoknta said you cant use to relays to do this...

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

I work with a electrical engineers, I'll ask about the a switch for polarity.

I would test it myself but I can't find my damn Helms manuals

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

I still have the fuse box under the hood and inside the car on my TA and I have NO PCM or BCM and my power windows, locks and mirrors still work.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

I'm believing this more and more.

There is a small black box (not the BCM) that seems to be tied to the wiring for the door motors.

I also found the pin assignments for the BCM and there is nothing there that indicates anything having to do with the doors other than the door locks.

I'll post up pics and later.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'm going to be trying this soon, I will be trying to apply strait 12 volts to the window motor, and if that makes it go up and down, then I will set up a simple dummy setup with 2 relay's, or I'm gonna see if I can find 2 push button switches that will activate more then 1 circuit, and just apply the voltage one way or the other that way.

I know there's a way to do it, Ken from eastside used to rewire the cars from scratch for racing, and they would just cut everything and leave a pigtail that would be enough to get everything working.

I'll get to the bottom of this, soon enough.

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

why couldnt you use a toggle switch like a bottle opener switch, like the ones 1"x2" ones nitrous outlet sells that go in the cubby hole below the Ac controls thats what i was hoping to use

SMITH

iTrader: (3)

I have no bcm and my windows still work off the factory switches and the express down still works on the driver side. Its very simple. The window harness is separate than they bcm harness.

pro382d

iTrader: (1)

on my 93 i just tied power into the heavy (12 gauge maybe) brown wire that goes across behind the dash that is your window + wire, it feeds both doors and the express down on the drivers side still with the factory switch. btw that is the only factory wiring harness in my car with no factory (boxes) or computers left at all.

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

I left the window harness in my car and put a 12v source to it where it picked up power from the factory harness. (I believe it was a brown wire as well.) Surprised at how easy it was to make them work. There is a small window control module you need to keep with that harness to make them work like this.

Jon

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Jon you have a pictire of said module? I have heard this before but haven't seen it.

My issue is that I"m putting a wolfe door skin set in the car so I have to change the switches anyway, and I was going to just have one in the drivers door for both sides, and not put anything in the passenger's side.

TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

It's about a 3"x3" square box thats around an inch tall. It's the only box that has big wires plugging into it. There dark brown, light brown, and blue. Very easy to make work. I use blankd off factory door panels. So I put the driver side switch into the side of my center console. And the control box is under it. Makes the wire lenght as short as possible.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'm ditching the center console, so I won't have it there to do that, but that sounds like a good idea. I may try to see if it's doable to put the factory switches in the wolfe door skin, if I can do that I will, and I could always take this box you speak of and put that in the drives door, and just run the wires over to the passenger's side. Noone's ever going to sit there again so I have no need to be able to open/close the window from that side anymore. Intercooler may be sitting there in the way preventing that from happening.... at least it might be. Depends what the fab guy wants to do with that, not 100% on the positioning of everything yet.

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

Yep, just a small box. If you follow the window harness across between the doors you will find the box. I think it is mounted to the back of the dash from the factory. Don't throw it away like I did. New from the dealer than are $80+ to replace.

Jon

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Crap LOL. It's probably one of those silly things that I zip tied up in the dash when it was out for the hvac removal.

I'm gonna relocate it into the door, and when I race wire the car just get power to it, then extend the wires that go to the passenger's side door and that's it. Just to try to keep it simple.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

This is the black box.


Just a tip, if you remove the power rear view mirror wires and door lock wires the rest of the harness pretty much comes out.


Wired it up to test it. Worked like a charm.



now to figure out how to get the stock gauges to work....

1cdub

iTrader: (5)

Nice info...thanks. Should have my HOSS back from paint this weekend and race wiring is next.

1_bad_ss

iTrader: (36)

So what exactly does the bcm control