How to set UMI drag bar end links??
03-06-2010, 10:30 AM
#1
How to set UMI drag bar end links?? Bolted up my UMI drag bar lastnight, but how should I set the end links at as a starting point??
Thanks
Oh and for guys using this bar with the S60 it does not fit on the S60s welded brackets, so I just used the UMI brackets next to them.
Thanks
Oh and for guys using this bar with the S60 it does not fit on the S60s welded brackets, so I just used the UMI brackets next to them.
03-06-2010, 11:32 AM
#2
The Strange brackets will not work so what you did was correct.
Here is the set-up instructions for the drag bar-
Setting Drag Sway Bar Pre-Load
1. Have the car sitting level on the ground. Jack up front of car until front tires just start to come off the ground (approximately ½”)
2. Measure from the ground to the bottom of door jams (bottom corner of doors) on both the passenger and drivers side.
3. The starting point is to have the passenger side 1/16” higher than the driver’s side. Lengthen or shorter passenger side end link until the passenger side door measures approximately 1/16” higher than the driver’s side.
4. With your starting point set now test the car. If the vehicle is pulling to the passenger side lengthen passenger side end link more. If the vehicle is pulling to the driver’s side shorten the passenger side end link. You should never need to adjust the driver’s side end link; all adjustments are made using the passenger side. Make sure all jam nuts are tightened every time an adjustment is made.
If you have additional questions please call or e-mail Jerry in our technical support department. jerry@umiperformance.com
Thank you!
Ryan
Here is the set-up instructions for the drag bar-
Setting Drag Sway Bar Pre-Load
1. Have the car sitting level on the ground. Jack up front of car until front tires just start to come off the ground (approximately ½”)
2. Measure from the ground to the bottom of door jams (bottom corner of doors) on both the passenger and drivers side.
3. The starting point is to have the passenger side 1/16” higher than the driver’s side. Lengthen or shorter passenger side end link until the passenger side door measures approximately 1/16” higher than the driver’s side.
4. With your starting point set now test the car. If the vehicle is pulling to the passenger side lengthen passenger side end link more. If the vehicle is pulling to the driver’s side shorten the passenger side end link. You should never need to adjust the driver’s side end link; all adjustments are made using the passenger side. Make sure all jam nuts are tightened every time an adjustment is made.
If you have additional questions please call or e-mail Jerry in our technical support department. jerry@umiperformance.com
Thank you!
Ryan
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03-06-2010, 09:23 PM
#8
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Leave the DS endlink the way it came and set the preload just like the instructions say. I actually set mine at 1/4 inch and my car leaves straight as an arrow. I actually got my new best 60' of 1.46 with my 100 shot.
03-07-2010, 08:51 AM
#11
just set it to where you have room to adjust it either way if you have to.
also, im not saying umi is wrong but i was always under the impression that you should set it to neutral. you can adjust it afterwards if the cars pulls to one side. here is how ive been told to do it by many different chassis guys. hook up the driver side, then with the driver in the car set the passenger side to neutral. if you dont have 2 people you could just put whatever equals your weight in the driver seat so you can seat it yourself.
also, im not saying umi is wrong but i was always under the impression that you should set it to neutral. you can adjust it afterwards if the cars pulls to one side. here is how ive been told to do it by many different chassis guys. hook up the driver side, then with the driver in the car set the passenger side to neutral. if you dont have 2 people you could just put whatever equals your weight in the driver seat so you can seat it yourself.
03-07-2010, 11:21 AM
#12
just set it to where you have room to adjust it either way if you have to.
also, im not saying umi is wrong but i was always under the impression that you should set it to neutral. you can adjust it afterwards if the cars pulls to one side. here is how ive been told to do it by many different chassis guys. hook up the driver side, then with the driver in the car set the passenger side to neutral. if you dont have 2 people you could just put whatever equals your weight in the driver seat so you can seat it yourself.
also, im not saying umi is wrong but i was always under the impression that you should set it to neutral. you can adjust it afterwards if the cars pulls to one side. here is how ive been told to do it by many different chassis guys. hook up the driver side, then with the driver in the car set the passenger side to neutral. if you dont have 2 people you could just put whatever equals your weight in the driver seat so you can seat it yourself.
I do most of the work alone so good thing Im skinny and wont have to fill the car with crap.
03-08-2010, 05:34 PM
#14
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If they arent tight, im sure the brackets will just rotate on the axle housing. And i think they want you to put more "pre load"(dont know what else to call it) since the car will torque to the passanger side naturally.
03-08-2010, 06:54 PM
#15
yeah I know how it works just wasnt sure if there was a starting point for the DS end link.
I did like 9sec93 said and opened it enough to adjust it either way If I had to for some reason then adjusted the PS 1/16 higher. Now just need to test it.
I did like 9sec93 said and opened it enough to adjust it either way If I had to for some reason then adjusted the PS 1/16 higher. Now just need to test it.
03-09-2010, 10:38 AM
#18
I'd weld the brackets to the housing, only way to be 100% that they won't move. Or at least tack the corners.
I set my car a little different, but I know it works.
Have a friend to help you with this, since it will be required.
Get in the car, buckle in, so you'r ready to race Car's got to have the race tires on it, and be on dead level ground.
I always start, with the drivers side end link in the middle of it's adjustment, so I have room to go either way on the passengers side (only adjust from the passenger's side)
What I do, is get the bolt on the passenger's side so it will slide easily into the rod end and the swaybar, so that there's absolutely no preload on it with the driver in the car. If you scale the car, this generally puts the weight where you want it for a starting point.
It's a little different, but usually works good for me. I set the swaybar on my car, and it leaves as level as can be, drags the bumper on the track level, doesn't pull, etc.
I set my car a little different, but I know it works.
Have a friend to help you with this, since it will be required.
Get in the car, buckle in, so you'r ready to race Car's got to have the race tires on it, and be on dead level ground.
I always start, with the drivers side end link in the middle of it's adjustment, so I have room to go either way on the passengers side (only adjust from the passenger's side)
What I do, is get the bolt on the passenger's side so it will slide easily into the rod end and the swaybar, so that there's absolutely no preload on it with the driver in the car. If you scale the car, this generally puts the weight where you want it for a starting point.
It's a little different, but usually works good for me. I set the swaybar on my car, and it leaves as level as can be, drags the bumper on the track level, doesn't pull, etc.
