keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure where to put this, but I failed tech last night because of my battery hold down not clamping down right and now am moving the battery to the back to also help with weight.

I ordered a kit today:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1200A/

And a cut off, that will be mounted somewhere on the bumper or berger panel:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-1032/

And the instructions also suggested an extra ground so I got this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-148014/

I was thinking of using the ground for the negative ground off the battery to just somewhere I could find a bolt back there. And to my knowledge you just run the positive all the way through the car to the front, I have a routing already figured out.

Now I have searched and can't find what I need. Forgive me as I am stupid when it comes to electronics and making things like this work.

Anyways, what do I connect the old wires to that used to run to the battery?
What do I connect the positive cable to once I get it back to the engine bay?
What do I do for a negative up front since I'm not running it back up to the engine bay like the positive.

I did find some very informing threads and even some great pics, but I just don't know what to hook any of this to.

Thank you so much for the help and if you have pics it would help so much. I plan to do this next weekend, but want to have everything planned out before I start.

Firewood

iTrader: (2)

You need to connect the origanal hot terminal to the new hot cable from the battery, I used 1/0. Then you'll need to cut the factory alternater wire and run a new one from the alternater all the way back to the switch, I used 4 gauge for this. Then take the factory ground and bolt it straight to the body near where the battery was, then take and ground the battery to the chassis. Your hot from the battery goes to one side of the switch. And the hot from the car and the alternater go to the other side. Just remember that NHRA requires that all power is killed with the switch. You make check the rules but if I remember right that battery box isn't legal for f-bodys because it's not sealed. I ordered the Taylor aluminum battery relocation kit from summit. Hope this helps I don't have any pics but it's pretty easy once you get going.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Ok, thank you. I know the battery box isn't legal, but it's good enough for my track and I don't go often. So the hot cable you are talking about is the positive?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"And the hot from the car and the alternater go to the other side. Just remember that NHRA requires that all power is killed with the switch."

?? Hooking the alt up this way will not kill the power.
The alt charge wire HAS to be on the battery side of the kill sw. Otherwise, the alt will continue to supply power as long as the engine is running.

4SFEDZ

iTrader: (6)

ya thats what i was wondering, so the wire coming from the alt goes to the batt side of your cut off switch right?

StreetStalkerZ

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if alot of you know this but before you start to put your battery in the spare tire well you better check with your rule book. We found that NHRA/IHRA states you have to have the batter between the frame rails to be legal,that means in the trunk area. Mine is mounted in the trunk as over the rear passenger side as i could get it. My pictures of where and how it's mounted is in my home page.

Check your rule books before you cut your wires to fit and drill holes in the wrong locations.

Firewood

iTrader: (2)

Yes I was wrong it's been like three years since I did this and I looked today so you're right. The Hot from the car goes to one side and the alt. wire goes to the other side that the battery hot also connects to. And I think that it does have to be between the frame rails, when I race the battery is mounted in the middle of the tub, other than that it's in the spare tire well so the sub can go back in.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

So I saw a few threads where people just used a distribution block at the front of the car coming off of the 2 ga. wire I run from the battery. So maybe I should just do that? Not sure but if I need to run one to the old positive wire, and to the alternator, that would work. Or just get a smaller splitter. Any input?

2XR95Z28

iTrader: (4)

I was wondering this also, i have the taylor relocation kit for my s10 and was gonna put a distribution block on the fire wall so i can run a wire from the block to the alt, and any other constant powered things i need for in my conversion standalone harness...

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

It will be there when I get home from work tonight. So can anybody suggest a spiltter or distribution box for up front that I can pick up somewhere. Thanks. I'm looking forward to working on this and freeing up the space.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'd put the battery in a moroso sealed box, that I am sure is legal, that summit one, may not be.

You need to run a wire from the alt to the battery, and then a 0 ga up to the front, and tie it in where the + of the battery was, either with a distribution block, a big crimp connector and solder it afterwards, something. Run it thru the hvac delete plate with a bulkhead fitting, makes that easier too.

I'd also mount the mattery to the floor of the t top well, lower center of gravity, and if you use a strap across the bottom it will be more solid, and legally mounted back there.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Wow thank you so much. That is exactly what I needed to hear. I know about the box not being legal, I'm gonna either not worry about it since my track isn't huge on safety when I go or else just get a sealed Optima.
I am also gonna run the wire through the hole in the firewall and wrap it really well. Can I just bolt my new positive wire to the old one's connecter? Just run a bolt through there and thread it on? I'm new to electrics.

Now the big question I have is about the cutoff, how do I wire that up? I bought one and will probably put it after the O on Camaro on the berger panel.
And I also will be putting it in the middle little dip down to be legally between the frame rails. Then I have to make a barrier in between it and me though? I kinda want to just make this all legal so there are no problems, but also just wanna get it over with asap.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

if the battery is in an approved box, you do not need a firewall between it and you. its going to be cheaper to get the moroso blue box than do all that jazz anyways.

JL, is there anything in the rulebook that says the battery box needs to be mounted to a certain thickness plate that is then mounted to the frame rail?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

A sealed optima isn't gonna solve your problem ALL BATTERIES MUST BE IN A SEALED BOX OR BEHIND A BULKHEAD PERIOD.
Get the right box, and as long as you're in a legal box that's vented outside with a hose, you don't need a bulkhead.

As for switch location, in the plate, or in the bumper cover, your choice.

Cutoff is easy. Run a 0 ga to teh cutoff from the batt, hook the wire up that goes from the alt to the battery at the same point, then run one 0 ga on the other side of the cutoff up to teh + cable that runs to the starter and to the fusebox, and remove the + cable that runs from the alt to the fusebox. Done.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Oh ok. Thanks. I thought if it was a sealed or dry whatever kind of battery that an optima is then it's fine. And I will work on getting a new box since this one won't work.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Well the cutoff switch came with directions, so I'm good as long as I get a little more wire.

keith_AE2010

iTrader: (9)

Well, stupid me got a kit for a battery with posts. So I'm just going to get an odyssey and tie the stupid thing down.