1Bad2

1) When running front plates with ls motors what are you guys doing with water pump pulley moved out thickness of plate? Out to far for crank pulley. 2) Mid plate & Ultrabell hit upper 4 bolts on rear main housing. Could change hex head bolts to round head cap screws for problem 2, but don't want to have to use electric drive for water pump. Can pulley be changed? Thanks, mike

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Most people, once they put the motor plate on are already on an elec water pump.. I'm sure there's a way to get it to work. I'd guess this is a madman question, I'm sure he's done it already.

The rear sitation, I'd swap to a cap hex head bolt like you're saying... not sure what else can be done there.

1_bad_ss

iTrader: (36)

I would think you could just mill the pump down the same thickness of the motor plate

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

The water pump doesnt matter as the pulley is plenty wide enough to take the belt out and extra 1/4". You will need to take a die grinder and notch the bell housing for the bolts.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Madman you wouldn't happen to have a picture of what you're talking about with the grinding would you? It would be helpful for people to see this.

1Bad2

Never even considered milling the pump. Thanks 1_bad_ss I think I'll try that. The rear I'll try different bolts, just can't bring myself to grind on my Ultrabell (yet). Thanks MADMAN & JL ws-6 I appreciate the help.

Bmw_shenanigans_l59

How did milling it work out? No news is good news?

Tony Corley

You might get an answer, but the thread is 11 years old. It makes sense that it would work, but since I haven’t done it personally, can’t verify

Low Racing Products

ALl of my front assembly mounted to the heads. The only issue was the tensioner which mounted to the water pump. I milled a 1/4" from the back of tensioner housing. Worked out well.