StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I'm slowly replacing all my mild steel non-adj. suspension pieces with all new adjustable ones. I know the benefits of chrome moly vs. mild steel but I really hate to spend to extra cash if I don't need to, so I'm wondering how fast you guys are going/have gone with the mild steel. I plan to have the car deep into the 10's in the near future and possible faster so I want to make sure to do things right this time around. BTW saving a few pounds by going chrome moly is not worth the money to me so were talking strength wise only.

What I do know about chrome moly vs. mild steel: (correct me if wrong)
- With smaller diameter tubing the chrome moly is lighter but equal in strength to slightly larger diameter mild steel.
- With equal diameter tubing the chrome moly is stronger but weighs the same as mild steel.

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

I guess it is not very fast but I have all mild steel Spohn parts, best times in sig.

N2

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

The chrome moly would be marginally stronger than steel if it was the same thickness, but the real benefit is the weight savings. The chrome moly parts are made from thinner tubing to save weight while retaining the same strength as the comparable steel parts. While some parts you may need to upgrade for the adjustable option, the others are fine as is unless you are looking to maximize weight savings. There is no reason you couldn't run 8.50's on mild steel parts if you wanted to.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

CM is not worth it except on the fastest race cars. I also just redid my entire rear with UMI adjustable parts.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Hell yea that's fast! That's all the proof I need considering I won't be in the 9's for awhile.

That's good to know, I'll just stick with the mild steel.

Looks like we both should have done our research way back when, oh well live and learn.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I wouldn't worry about chromoly parts unless you're really trying to get the car as light as you can.

The strength isn't that much better because of the mentioned thinner wall material that is used.

Chromoly material, when you're talking about a control arm, probably doesn't amount to more then a lb or 2 anyway. I'd just opt for all the adjustable stuff with GOOD rod ends.. that would be your best bet.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I wanted the non adjustable to make life easy and knew I would end up changing it down the road. Now Im at the point I need it for the LCA relo,28" tires etc. Plus I sold my old stuff so it didnt cost me much at all.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I bought all the adjustable stuff, and hav actually worn the alum bushings out that go in the control arms... I'm now going to have all the suspension mounts for the lca's plated so they'er double thick, and go with the biggest friggin heim joints I can find and have a new set of control arms built by my fab guy. Gonna offset them in to the inner mount too so they're up against it to get another inch of tire clearance while we're at it, at this point it just seems like a really good idea. Should help tighten the car up too, with the added plating. Probably will drill the holes out and go with alot bigger bolt too while I'm at it.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like a great plan^ You know youll need it with all your plans and changes that happen to your car.
My car used to be a DD and just wanted better stock replacement parts at the time.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Same here. It wasn't ever really a daily driver.. but I did drive it. Well 188xx miles anyway... over the course of 4 years 8000 of which came in the first summer

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Unless weight is a huge concern our mild steel compnents will hold up to about anything...

Hell on Steve Turley's (Ohio Boys fame) first Firebird he was running mid to low 8's on our mild steel components for years

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

I doubt mild steel vs. chromoly steel is going to make a whole lot of difference other than weight.

Stay away from anything aluminum (even spacers and what not). Aluminum has a tendency to bend and deform over time.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

and JL's point on the heim joint (where it THREADS into the control arM)!! Stregth of the threads.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Awesome, thanks for the advice everybody!

InsaneZ00

5.3 heads PT3000 stall, 3.23 gears and air bag...no susp. no sub frames stock cam...11.70@ 114 1.74 sixty..damn. take that..mid 10's on small dry sys.