second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

I took my car out to the strip for the first time with my nitrous, new rear end, and suspension thats in my sig. Well the first pass it bogged really bad. So I turned my progressive off and just ran a full 150 shot. The next two passes I spun but it didnt blow the tires off, 1.8 60'. All the mods done to the car are in my sig. I am on a 275/60/15 M/T radial set at 14psi. My pinion angle is set to
-2.5*. What do I have to do to be able to launch and dead hook with the spray?

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

are you footbreaking it as much as it will take or are you flashing the converter ??? what size converter are you using??? might just have to play around and see what works best for you. make sure your getting the tires sticky enough too or maybe the track prep sucks.

BAMALS1

iTrader: (16)

How much air in the tires? Straddle the bald spots on the starting line.

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

I have a 3600 stall. I did both, stalled the car up till right before I pushed threw the lights, then just flashed it. I spun both those times. The tires were set to 14psi and I always line up in the grooves. Should I adjust the pinion angle anymore or what?

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

There are a lot of people hooking and going low 5's in the 1/8th with this tire, I just need to know how to hook to go higher 6's lol.

4K+Converter

What springs and shocks are you running? Some people hook up with stock springs and shocks, some don't.

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

I'm on stock springs and shocks, I know aftermarket ones would be better but I would think with my size tire and all the adjustable suspension I have it would hook. Its spinning so bad its blowing the tires, but it is spinning past the 60'.

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

What about if I change my control arm setting on my relocation bracket? My relocation brackets have 4 different holes and it is currently on the second from the bottom. Like I said the car is stock height, so should I bring the control arm up a hole?

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

What did you have the progressive start % set at? Try like 50% out of the gate (75 horse) and progress it over like 2 seconds. If it spins, back the starting % down; if it bogs, raise it up. Gotta find what your car wants.

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

I see that have an A4 ???

"Back in the days" when the SS was on nitrous and the T-400 (with a trans-brake), I had 5000 stall. Set the 2-step at 5200, nitrous cut-off while on the T/B. Launched at 5200 on a 200 shot no spin. Cut 1.3's all day long. Tire were 30x10.5x15 Hoosier Radial-style slicks.

I believe you will see most of the 275 DR with great times are boosted. Nitrous is way different. Your spring and shocks DO make a huge difference. Not sure you're going to get great 60's on 275 with the nitrous. To show the difference - the shop mustang (turbo'd) running on 275's will cut 'only' 1.4's 60' but still run 8.7's at 170 - full race weight is over 3600lbs, runs on a glide.

Good luck guy

David

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

David I don't want to ruin your day but there's nitrous cars 60 footing in the bottom 1.2's on 275/60 m/t tires.. the x275 cars are getting it done, and there's a good # of them (various ford, chevy, etc.etc) going in the 5.2 at over 135 mph....

You need to hit that tire hard and keep it planted. I'd up the air pressure to about 16 to 17, try that and see what it gets you. Pinion angle isn't gonna help, try moving the control arms up, then down, see what that gets you.

At your power level there's absolutely no reason you can't dead hook that tire, shocks are gonna be your next step to get the car leaving better... but I think there's a good bit left.

Also, if you do spin, blip the throttle, radials don't recover at all, once they're spinning you're not gonna get them to grab again, or at least for a LONG time if you don't get out of it for a split second.

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

I know its not fast to most, but this is the fastest car I have driven at the track and I'm starting to find that out. I moved the lca's up a hole and it seemed to help, I just dont know by how much because the track prep was bad this last sunday. I didnt mess with the progressive at all this time out because I am trying to get the suspension dialed in as much as I can with a full 150 hit. At the beginning I was spinning but not blowing the tires off, it was enough to carry the left tire a couple feet in the air. But the later it got the worst the track was. I was blowing the tires off each time, and like you stated I couldnt get back into it. A guy on a busa went down half track and a supra almost wrecked at about 150mph. So I feel that I am almost there with the suspension and if needed I will start adjusting my progressive. Thanks for all the input and advise guys, I will post up next time I go out, hopefully I will get my 6 sec pass(1/8th).

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

Also there is a guy on here, SMITH that has a x275 car that has a best of 5.07 I believe, I always try to make it to the track to watch if I know him and the RPM crew will be out. Its crazy how fast some of these people are going with that tire!

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

also with the radials you need decent track prep to even start to make it hook, they are great on a good track, hit and miss on a marginal track and not great on a poorly prepped track.

You need more tire pressure in them, 17-18 pounds if not more. We have had a car run as much as 22 and go low 1.4's on a good track.

and just because you have lcas, phb, ta doesnt mean you have adjustable suspension, you dont have much to adjust at all, shocks play a huge factor in that along with a larger rear sway bar.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

We have been 1.20 60' on 275's and nitrous.

16-17 psi works best for us. Stay away from the bald spots.

Get some shocks and dont mess with the pinion angle.

second_2_none

iTrader: (6)

Yeah a buddy put 17 psi in the tires and I could tell it helped a lot. So you think a -2.5* pinion angle is good?

Camscam02: All that suspension you just named off of mine is adjustable. I do realize I dont have "fully adj" suspension, and I understand shocks and springs will do wonders for the car. I'm new to drag racing, at this new level. But I do know that adjusting the pinion angle and lca's in the relocation brackets will effect the traction a lot. My tq army had 4 different holes to put it on the cross member. Like I said I am new to this but to me it seems like it is quite a bit to adjust, the only thing left to adjust would be shocks, you cant adjust a rear anti sway bar. I was just wondering if anybody on here has been able to hook up on a 150 shot with similar mods was all. Good job on your car btw, I love what you have done with so little.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Ours is -2*

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

pinion angle doesnt effect traction much at all mostly getting driveline angles set, niether does have adjustable lcas or phb, they lcas and phb locate the rearend to center the car, the relocation can cause you to hit the tire more or less depending on hole and moving the torque arm in the front holes effects instant center, all you said you adjusted was pinion angle and that wont help one bit.

Yes you can adjust a rear sway bar such as the wolfe, bmr, umi, etc. how do you think you get the car to leave straight and apply equal weight to the rear tires?

so there is much more for you to understand and I think you are fighting the track prep and tire more then anything.

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

ET drags and ET streets will be a lot easier to hook on marginal tracks and with not much suspension done.

Im looking to do the same thing, spray out of the hole with a cam/stall/125-150 shot.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

The Hoosier DR works alot better for tracks that dont have great prep.