TADreamer

I did some searching but could not find a thread with my complete needs, if there is one out there please let me know and Ill kick myself in the *** for spending nearly 2 hours typing this post bouncing between this and All Data pictures to provide pinout info lol.

I have completely gutted my 1998 TA as it is now a track only car. The computer and harness are 98 that came out of the car and I am looking to clean up the harness of unneeded cluster. This will also make life easier as I want to extend the harness to move the PCM in the cabin and out of the engine bay.

PCM
I have the pinout for the 98 PCM and from what I can see there are ALOT of wires on this harness that I do no need. If it helps let me know and I can try to post the pinout I am using, I got my reference using All Data Pro.


Here is a list of what I plan to remove, if there is something here that I should not remove or something that I should that is not listed please let me know:

Pin # - Color - Use of that pin
RED CONNECTOR
3 - White - EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Valve Control
7 - Yellow - VSS Signal High
14 - DK GRN - A/C Clutch Status
22 - DK Blue - Transmission Range Signal B
25 - PNK - Trans Range Signal A
34 - GRY or WHT - Skip Shift or 3-2 shift solenoid
35 - LT GRN - 1-2 shift Sol.
36 - DK Blue - Fuel Gauge Output Control
39 - DK GRN/ WHT - AC Clutch Relay
40 - WHT or YEL/BLK - Ship Shift Lamp Control or Shift Sol. B
41 - Brn/WHT - Low Oil Level Lamp
42 - Lt grn - Reverse Inhibit Sol
43 - DK GRN - Cooling Fan Relay #1
45 - DK GRN/WHT - Evap Canister Purge Valve
47 - DK GRN/WHT - A/C Request Signal
55 - DK GRN/WHT - VSS Output Signal
61 - RED - Transmission Range Signal
62 - BLK - EGR Pintle Ground
63 - BLK - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Ground
71 - PPL - VSS Signal Low
75 - GRY - Fuel Tank Pressure and level sensor ground
77 - PPL - TCC/Brake Switch (Im assuming this has to do with converter lockup??)

BLUE HARNESS CONNECTOR
7 - RED/BLK - AC Refrig Press Sens Sig
9 - BRN - EGR Pintle Position Sensor Signal
10 - PPL - Fuel Level Sensor Signal
13 - YEL/BLK - Trans Fluid Temp Signal
14 - ORN/BLK - Trans Fluid Sens GRD
28 - DK BLU - Engine Cooling Fan Relay 2&3
30 - BRN - AIR Pump Relay
31 - PPL - AIR Solen. Control
32 - Tan/Black - TCC Sol valve control
33 - BRN - TCC Sol Valve Control
34 - GRA - EGR Ground
36 - WHT - Trans Fluid Pressure Control
37 - DK GRN/ WHT - Fuel Pump Relay
38 - LT BLU - EGR Valve Control
39 - RED/BLK - Trans Fluid Pressure
52 - DK GRN - Fuel Tank Pressure Signal
66 - GRA - AC Refriegerant AC Pressure 5V Ref

Now for the fuel pump and Cooling Fans I plan to just run an off/on switch on the dash (No Radio/HVAC). I am planning on wiring so the ignition will not turn on unless fans are switched on to be safe. I am deleting all of the fuel level stuff because I am hoping to talk to autometer and see if there is a gauge that will work with the float from a 99+ car as I have a plastic tank/sending unit that I am using. ( Any Suggestions on the fan wiring or fuel level?)

I am not using the factory dash, but am using a custom bezel in its place with an Autometer Speedo. I am going to be running a TH400 Trans so I am going to use that VSS to connect to the speedo. (Assuming this is just a power/ground deal I can consult with Autometer about?) I am also using aftermarket gauges for water temp, oil pressure, and voltage.

Also is there anything else the coolant temp sensor does besides turn fans on/off, and control the gauge on the dash? If not I am assuming I can also delete the pins that have anything to do with the ECT on the pinout? (If they can be disconnected I will update the post with which pins/wires can be eliminated.)

Regarding 5V references , in particular:
BLUE CONNCTOR
67 - GRA - 5v Supply
65 - GRA - 5V Refrence
64 - Map Sensor 5 Volt Ref
43 - GRA - TP Sensor 5 Volt Ref

Is there anything I should worry about with those as far as powering them, or is that all looped through the computer using the 12V that is powering it?

PCM 12 V SUPPLY/ IGNITION
Which of these wires need to be hooked to a ignition on or constant power (If any) I do not see a specific pin for a 12 V Supply.

BLUE CONNECTOR
19 - PNK - Ignition Feed (Or is this going to come from the ignition wire off the column, if so which wire from the column should I connect to?)
20 - ORN - PCM Battery Feed
61 - ORN - PCM Battery Feed (Are one or both of these coming from the alternator?)

RED CONNECTOR
59 - BRN/WHT - Ignition Control Ref. Low Bank 2
60 - BRN - Ignition Control Ref. Low Bank 1
(What are these 2 for and is there anything in particular I should worry about with them?)

GROUNDS

Are there any grounds that should be grounded separate or far from anything else so nothing is interfered with? Or should can most be hooked up together on a ground/dist block?

DATA LINK CONNECTOR
Which wires do I need to have connected to accessory power if any? For all of the ports there, there are not many of them being used. Here are the pin explanations I have for the DLC:

2 - PRPL - Class III Serial Data Line PCM
4 - BLK - Ground
5 - BLK/WHT - Ground
9 - Tan - Serial Data line, diagnostic energy reserve module, Electronic Brake Control Module, Elec. Brake/Traction Conrol Module and PCM
16- ORN - Power Feed (Is this the main 12V source for the PCM as well?)

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
I plan to just install a warning light in the dash to let me know if there is a code being thrown for any reason. Would I just hook the power to PIN 37 (MIL CONTROL) on the red connector to the light and the other side of the light to a ground, or vise versa?


BCM ELIMINATION/ VATS

I know by eliminating the BCM there are going to be some VATS issues.
As far as VATS goes I was going to put the PCM in my other 98 car to hook up my HP Tuners and disable the VATS so the car will start. Is there anything else I should do while it is hooked up (Besides delete all the codes).

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH/TURN SIGNALS/ HEAD&TAIL LIGHTS

I plan to just use a basic painless harness to handle all of the lighting duties, yes this is a race car but there are ALOT of car shows in a very short distance from me so I want to keep it street legal to the point of lights at least so I can take a local cruise here and there


I hope I covered everything here that would be needed to make the engine run and be able to communicate to it with HP Tuners. If there is anything I left out or forgot please mention it as I have tried to cover everything I need for the engine here.
I really hope the tech community can help me out and this thread can help alot of people that are doing the same the their cars in the future.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

You've put a lot of work into this. I didn't read all the details, but a couple of things jumped out at me:

1) The PCM needs the temp sending unit.

2) You can wires your fans so that the relays are energized by an ignition "on" 12V source, and switched by a manual switch. In fact, it wouldn't be that difficult to wire in 2 switches to give you the same 3 airflow variabilities as stock: 2 fans low, pass side only high, 2 fans high. Or you can rig it so you only get 2 fans high on a simple "on/off" switch.

EDit: Sorry this diagram is for the wrong year, but your PCM still has 2 fan controls. Just in different pin positions.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I would search for the term Race Wiring a Car, as you may get hits on what you need and what you do not.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I'm doing this, I have a tread down a few I started. working on it 1-2 nights a week.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-deit.html



I dont think you have to exstend any of the PCM harensss to move it on the inside of the HVAC planel. It has that big loop to go over the front nose were the AC line were. Im moving the PCM inside the car, going to slot my HAVC planel to go around the wires, or do a 50/50 notch with a gromet or somthing. I dont know if you have removed the HAVC and run a block off pannel now to know what Im talking about, but with the PCM in the stock spot there a lot og slack in the harness there. I havnt done it (yet) but it looks like it will move fine. Not talking to the passanger kick panel, but passes the harness right about the frame, (tight) or up in the top corner under the cowl right behind the head, your have the most slack.
The 98 stuff is weird Im just looking into the 99+. The fuel level stuff is just like one wire so easy to keep the stock gauge. It looks like as Im removing alot of them, There like 3-5 wire/pins in the PCM concetors for "fuel pressuer bla bla" and there for EVAP(removing that) and related wires (3-4 more) that run on the dash harness to the BCM, and thu the bigger C2XX conectors I've Depinned and removed. And the few goiong to the under hood fues. The connectoer behind the back seats I just have a few wires left 2-3 maybe (FP, and level gauge). All the ABS ones are gone, and Evap.
For the 98 PCM stuff ask in the LS1 swap section. Theres a guy that redose stock harness for swaps and knows all this, I made a tread there last week and he responded in a few hours on PCM stuff.