Superstockracer

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if LS1 like to be operated at higher temps for drag racing ? Old school methods of staging with the water as cool as possible, oil as hot as possible... do these apply to the FI LS1's ?

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

Kinda hard to answer without knowing the extent of mods on said engine. I know my Formula likes to be staged no less than 190 degrees for good consistency, plus much higher than 205 the fans will kick on the high side and it loses a little power due to the higher demand on the alternator.

Derek

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

My 6.0 doesn't seem to care, back to back runs or pushing it through the pits in cool late night air. My motor is fairly factory if this helps at all.

dragracing91lx

iTrader: (5)

mine is the most consistent from 180-190

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Old School Methods worked because the technology was just not there, there were only so many kinds of viscosity in engine oil, and tolerences were always loose and this helped against parasitic loss. They wanted water as cool as possible as it often still ran through the intake manifold and it had a adverse effect on Intake Temps which in turn would throw off the Carb/Ignition settings as well as avoiding vapor lock. Having/Knowing the Outside Air Temp and DA, then making the coolant temp a constant, you can really make a car consistant.

With FI cars there are parameters and settings that compensate for this variation. Most Nitrous cars in the LSX world will still run the motor to temp on a standard set of plugs, then swap in the nitrous plugs and the name of the game is avoid having the heads lifted due to coolant. Some guys out there have go as far has hard blocking the bottom end, thicker & stronger head studs, thicker side walls, welding/sealing off coolant ports in the head or not running coolant at all!!!

The cooling method of racers vary, especially those who run Alcohol Fuel, that creates it own variations and requirements.

omcar

iTrader: (10)

I bracket race and need to stage at 190ish for consistency. It does not like being cooler or hotter as fans will come on.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I played with this alot, and never found staging it with it any cooler helping at all, I have my fans on at 190 and with the elec water pump, I've never come out of the burnout box and not had the fans on.

Granted, I warmed the car and then would pull the plugs and put fresh cold nitrous plugs in every trip, this was done to keep the plugs as clean as possible.

That being said... temp wise, the car was usually up to 190 when I pulled the plugs, and I've never made a pass with it any cooler. I would, let the elec water pump run in the pits for 5 min or so after a run which would bring the temps back down from the 200 I'd see on the return road to around 170, but by the time I was out of the burnout, it was back to 195ish, fans on, and I was staging the car.

Driving it around a little bit, it usually just stayed at about 200, never got any warmer then that (gauge does work) regardless the weather, etc.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

^ To Add to that.

There is a Gimmick out there that some people have used. It is kind of like a strap you put over the motor and then you insert frozen gel packets which basically simulate a person racing with a Bag of Ice on the car. Like said IMO its a Gimmick that would not be realistic for street use and at the track in most classes, people are often FASTER then the Index but dial down to get the win.

If you need something like that to win, go home and go back to the drawing board.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's the same thing as a nitrous intercooler spray bar LOL. If you're gonna run a boosted setup with an air to air, and then carry the nitrous in the car too, mine as well just put a single nozzle in before the intake, and ingest the nitrous instead of spraying it on the OUTSIDE of an intercooler LOL.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Yea, when I was interested in a SRT-4 Neon, that was a Big "Toy" Mod, Spray bar, but theirs was water, so it be cleap for street use and supposedly made a difference. RICE!!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That setup that you're thinking actually uses the washer bottle so that you don't have to even use a tank. Ineffective at best, you're spraying water from a heat soaked engine bay on the intercooler. Talk about a waste :

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I like to roll through the burnout box at 145-150.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

This is something I'm going to kep an eye on more closely as the car gets put back together... with the sibstantially smaller radiator, I am going to probably have to run the pump more. I'm also doing a couple different things with the cooling system, in an effort to try to make the back cyl's happy/more evenly cooled... not sure if it will help or hurt.. that's to be determined.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

You maybe a good canidate for that Floor blow dryer, the same used for drying out carpets to help cool the engine bay or underneath for a trans fluid cooler.

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

Don't they usualy just spray CO2 at the intercooler? Any compressed gas would do, because expantion csouses it to cool. Either way, I think the kits spray CO2 not N2O

As far as the temps, I like to see 178 in the burnout box Wth the Trick Flows however it seems that the car is running a little hotter than it did with the 243's Not sure if its the heads, maybe the EWP is going. Hope not tho, ****'s expencive!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

There's a glide setup, I think TCI makes it, that has an electric pump on it, I was thinking about maybe looking into that so I can circulate the tranny fluid and the coolant on the return road to help cool everything down...

Alex it might be Co2, I think I've seen both, regardless, that's a little : IMO

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

That would be the Shizz