is this a good deal on this car? fully built camaro
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is this a good deal on this car? fully built camaro
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/1837833931.html
owner says he has a 9" housing he will gimme w it, tubs, all the interior, drive shaft loop, kirkley seat, all brand new racecraft front tubular k member and a arms, all chromoly. said the cage is built to 9.90 or 8.50 but as u can see, 90% is there either way. said he would like 2 k, but is open to offers.
is this a good deal? (cage is MS btw)
owner says he has a 9" housing he will gimme w it, tubs, all the interior, drive shaft loop, kirkley seat, all brand new racecraft front tubular k member and a arms, all chromoly. said the cage is built to 9.90 or 8.50 but as u can see, 90% is there either way. said he would like 2 k, but is open to offers.
is this a good deal? (cage is MS btw)
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, just got home with it.
i went there and the car is AMAZING, all the joints on the cage are perfectly coped and have zero gaps anywhere. under the hood is all done and painted. this is basically the rundown of what i got:
93 camaro-zero rust whatsoever, no damage atall, clear title
cage is what i would describe as PERFECT.
back halved
chris alston ladder bar setup
race craft front tubular k member
racecraft tubular a-arms
qa1 adjustable coil overs
all new bearings/bushings
harwood hood, functions like stock.
ford 9" rear
all the interior
rear tubs
brand new aluminum kirkley seat
quick disconnect steering wheel/column
and 15"x14" wheels on 31x14 slicks, all brand new
and a buncha little stuff.
i payed 2200 for everything. thought tht was a pretty killer deal, everything is 100% brand new. k member, shocks, everything.
here are some shitty cell pics.
i went there and the car is AMAZING, all the joints on the cage are perfectly coped and have zero gaps anywhere. under the hood is all done and painted. this is basically the rundown of what i got:
93 camaro-zero rust whatsoever, no damage atall, clear title
cage is what i would describe as PERFECT.
back halved
chris alston ladder bar setup
race craft front tubular k member
racecraft tubular a-arms
qa1 adjustable coil overs
all new bearings/bushings
harwood hood, functions like stock.
ford 9" rear
all the interior
rear tubs
brand new aluminum kirkley seat
quick disconnect steering wheel/column
and 15"x14" wheels on 31x14 slicks, all brand new
and a buncha little stuff.
i payed 2200 for everything. thought tht was a pretty killer deal, everything is 100% brand new. k member, shocks, everything.
here are some shitty cell pics.
#5
TECH Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: schaumburg,il
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that ladder bar rear frame section looks way too far forward to me but just check it. the front edge of the crossmember of the rear frame section should be 39 inches from axle centerline. and with the door swingouts if there done properly there legal to 8.50 so if you want to go faster you need to sitch them. other than that it looks good. any questions just let me know. -tony-
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i wondered the same thing. so i sat in the car. When i sat in it with my back against where the frame rail comes up, and put my feet straight out, they are about 3-4" short from stock location. and im about 6'1"-2". so the seat can be back a good ways. i think the pictures are just at a bad angle or somethin.
#13
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i was really expecting it to be something sketchy, but i get there and the car is amazing, and the guy is a straight up dude about everything. he was origionally asking 1,000 for the car!! for the shell/cage, no front k member or anything. but i couldnt pass up all the extra goodies
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my brother in law is a welder by trade, has all certs, so he will be doing the welding for me.
i know what you mean by, i dont know what i have. i do, i just wasnt sure on the certs for the cage. im not planning one of these high dollar turbo builds like everyone on here, just a simple stroker motor that willl get me to the 9's consistantly. no bs3, no ams, no sheetmetal intakes, no 2k intercoolers, no racepack setup. just a simple bracket car. single 950 carb, single plain, as simple as can be.
hopefully be finished for some shakedown runs by the end of next season. im finishing up abuild now, so this will have to wait a week or two.
budget will be whatever spare money i have to finish it, single and live at home w the parents makes it nice!!!!
#16
7 Second Club
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not trying to be mean or negative but if all you want is a 9sec bracket car you went about it the wrong way, especially if you've never done any chassis or racecar work.
all the tin work that needs to be done for the floor alone at the cheapest chassis shop would cost atleast 3k$ and tin work is a bitch. not to mention all the cross members that to be made for ladder bar and trans.
just in parts alone you'll need atleast an extra 15$k to finish this... and thats doing it cheap also.
and if you're doing it be prepared to spend atleast 2 years working on it.
i do think you got a good deal but even the cage needs alot more bars to cert the 25.5.
i personally have a racecar and built it and before i spent another year of my life working from 6pm-2am i'd find one thats rolling or turn-key or have someone else build it that does that **** for a living. doing it the first time takes 10x longer and looks 5x worse than the next car you do.
i would see if i could make a little money off the deal and buy one rolling.
all the tin work that needs to be done for the floor alone at the cheapest chassis shop would cost atleast 3k$ and tin work is a bitch. not to mention all the cross members that to be made for ladder bar and trans.
just in parts alone you'll need atleast an extra 15$k to finish this... and thats doing it cheap also.
and if you're doing it be prepared to spend atleast 2 years working on it.
i do think you got a good deal but even the cage needs alot more bars to cert the 25.5.
i personally have a racecar and built it and before i spent another year of my life working from 6pm-2am i'd find one thats rolling or turn-key or have someone else build it that does that **** for a living. doing it the first time takes 10x longer and looks 5x worse than the next car you do.
i would see if i could make a little money off the deal and buy one rolling.
Last edited by ty_ty13; 07-20-2010 at 12:50 PM.
#18
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i know what your saying, but i can explain.
i am planning 9's for now, i dont wanna try to build a 7sec car right off the bat ya know? once i get it together and see how it does, then down the road, i will do a motor swap ect. when the funds are right(im 20 yrs old).
i have been around cars/drag cars/ circle track cars my entire life. i know the ins and outs. i will be doing all the tin workl in the car, i have never paid anyone to do work to my cars EVER. easiest way to save money IMO. so basically i will only have material cost in all the floors, pans ect.
motor will be built by me, like i said it will be the 434 ci, from ohio crankshaft(local to me) kit is $1,699.
and 2 years would be a LONG time to finish this car. basically it needs drive line, wiring, and fab finished. windows, doors, hood, and whole front end is done.
car wont need the 25.5 so im not too worried about that. i was just wondering for resale value.
i would consider this car a roller, all that needs done is the rear end. as in just the housing. ladder bars setup already.
i know what u mean by trying to work after a regular work day. i work from home in my spare time. i dont really have a 9-5
im not saying it will be a easy job, but it wont be too bad, the hard part is already done, cage, chassis, fron race craft suspension, ect. as dar as roller goes, just need the rear mocked up. wheels and tires are already setup, and front end is 100% complete
i am planning 9's for now, i dont wanna try to build a 7sec car right off the bat ya know? once i get it together and see how it does, then down the road, i will do a motor swap ect. when the funds are right(im 20 yrs old).
i have been around cars/drag cars/ circle track cars my entire life. i know the ins and outs. i will be doing all the tin workl in the car, i have never paid anyone to do work to my cars EVER. easiest way to save money IMO. so basically i will only have material cost in all the floors, pans ect.
motor will be built by me, like i said it will be the 434 ci, from ohio crankshaft(local to me) kit is $1,699.
and 2 years would be a LONG time to finish this car. basically it needs drive line, wiring, and fab finished. windows, doors, hood, and whole front end is done.
car wont need the 25.5 so im not too worried about that. i was just wondering for resale value.
i would consider this car a roller, all that needs done is the rear end. as in just the housing. ladder bars setup already.
i know what u mean by trying to work after a regular work day. i work from home in my spare time. i dont really have a 9-5
im not saying it will be a easy job, but it wont be too bad, the hard part is already done, cage, chassis, fron race craft suspension, ect. as dar as roller goes, just need the rear mocked up. wheels and tires are already setup, and front end is 100% complete
not trying to be mean or negative but if all you want is a 9sec bracket car you went about it the wrong way, especially if you've never done any chassis or racecar work.
all the tin work that needs to be done for the floor alone at the cheapest chassis shop would cost atleast 3k$ and tin work is a bitch. not to mention all the cross members that to be made for ladder bar and trans.
just in parts alone you'll need atleast an extra 15$k to finish this... and thats doing it cheap also.
and if you're doing it be prepared to spend atleast 2 years working on it.
i do think you got a good deal but even the cage needs alot more bars to cert the 25.5.
i personally have a racecar and built it and before i spent another year of my life working from 6pm-2am i'd find one thats rolling or turn-key or have someone else build it that does that **** for a living. doing it the first time takes 10x longer and looks 5x worse than the next car you do.
i would see if i could make a little money off the deal and buy one rolling.
all the tin work that needs to be done for the floor alone at the cheapest chassis shop would cost atleast 3k$ and tin work is a bitch. not to mention all the cross members that to be made for ladder bar and trans.
just in parts alone you'll need atleast an extra 15$k to finish this... and thats doing it cheap also.
and if you're doing it be prepared to spend atleast 2 years working on it.
i do think you got a good deal but even the cage needs alot more bars to cert the 25.5.
i personally have a racecar and built it and before i spent another year of my life working from 6pm-2am i'd find one thats rolling or turn-key or have someone else build it that does that **** for a living. doing it the first time takes 10x longer and looks 5x worse than the next car you do.
i would see if i could make a little money off the deal and buy one rolling.
#19
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
i know what your saying, but i can explain.
i am planning 9's for now, i dont wanna try to build a 7sec car right off the bat ya know? once i get it together and see how it does, then down the road, i will do a motor swap ect. when the funds are right(im 20 yrs old).
i have been around cars/drag cars/ circle track cars my entire life. i know the ins and outs. i will be doing all the tin workl in the car, i have never paid anyone to do work to my cars EVER. easiest way to save money IMO. so basically i will only have material cost in all the floors, pans ect.
motor will be built by me, like i said it will be the 434 ci, from ohio crankshaft(local to me) kit is $1,699.
and 2 years would be a LONG time to finish this car. basically it needs drive line, wiring, and fab finished. windows, doors, hood, and whole front end is done.
car wont need the 25.5 so im not too worried about that. i was just wondering for resale value.
i would consider this car a roller, all that needs done is the rear end. as in just the housing. ladder bars setup already.
i know what u mean by trying to work after a regular work day. i work from home in my spare time. i dont really have a 9-5
im not saying it will be a easy job, but it wont be too bad, the hard part is already done, cage, chassis, fron race craft suspension, ect. as dar as roller goes, just need the rear mocked up. wheels and tires are already setup, and front end is 100% complete
i am planning 9's for now, i dont wanna try to build a 7sec car right off the bat ya know? once i get it together and see how it does, then down the road, i will do a motor swap ect. when the funds are right(im 20 yrs old).
i have been around cars/drag cars/ circle track cars my entire life. i know the ins and outs. i will be doing all the tin workl in the car, i have never paid anyone to do work to my cars EVER. easiest way to save money IMO. so basically i will only have material cost in all the floors, pans ect.
motor will be built by me, like i said it will be the 434 ci, from ohio crankshaft(local to me) kit is $1,699.
and 2 years would be a LONG time to finish this car. basically it needs drive line, wiring, and fab finished. windows, doors, hood, and whole front end is done.
car wont need the 25.5 so im not too worried about that. i was just wondering for resale value.
i would consider this car a roller, all that needs done is the rear end. as in just the housing. ladder bars setup already.
i know what u mean by trying to work after a regular work day. i work from home in my spare time. i dont really have a 9-5
im not saying it will be a easy job, but it wont be too bad, the hard part is already done, cage, chassis, fron race craft suspension, ect. as dar as roller goes, just need the rear mocked up. wheels and tires are already setup, and front end is 100% complete
What kind of work do you do? Do you work on cars?
#20
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do mostly LS work, heads/cam swaps ect. but have always been into fabrication. saved up my money and bought my OWN new mig welder when i turned 13. miller 175, cost me over $700 with all the accesories. and got a tig about a year ago. synchrowave 200