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rim spining inside tire...maybe need rim screws?

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Old 07-18-2010, 10:14 AM
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Default rim spining inside tire...maybe need rim screws?

made the first passes of the season finally. noticed after the first motor pass the rim moved 1" inside the tire and the marks no longer lined up. after 2 more passes it moved maybe another inch. after the first nitrous pass the tire spun around to almost the 180 degree mark.

my questions are: will this ruin the bead on my tire and how serious of an issue is this? Will my 60fts be improved if i screw the rims? and one last thing, will the tire leak air if i screw the rims, now needing to run tubes?
Old 07-18-2010, 10:15 AM
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Tires are hoosier 28x10.50x15 slick
Old 07-18-2010, 11:15 AM
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A few other questions might help further your options:
#1- what kind of rim, size and are they brand new or used?
#2- how were the tires installed (dry, soap, glue, etc)
#3-what are you running for tire pressure?
#4-car power, 60 foot?

Some set-ups make it where screws might be needed, but fresh tires do need a little time to seat. Mine usually take 3-6 passes and move 1/2-2 inches on the slicks, but radials move little, if at all. Some use glue and the tires won't move at all. If you drill them, likely you might need tubes to help on air leakage, but it depends.

Derek
Old 07-18-2010, 11:54 AM
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Now sure how your 60's are but, if youre spinning the tire on the wheel there is an issue.

First - anytime youre putting power down and it does anything put move the car forward youre losing in the 60' - 180deg on a 28" tire is over 40" of movement forward that you didnt get.

If the tire never seats and keeps moving - I would put screw them. And yes they will leak - silicone helps but wont fix it.
Old 07-18-2010, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
A few other questions might help further your options:
#1- what kind of rim, size and are they brand new or used?
#2- how were the tires installed (dry, soap, glue, etc)
#3-what are you running for tire pressure?
#4-car power, 60 foot?

Some set-ups make it where screws might be needed, but fresh tires do need a little time to seat. Mine usually take 3-6 passes and move 1/2-2 inches on the slicks, but radials move little, if at all. Some use glue and the tires won't move at all. If you drill them, likely you might need tubes to help on air leakage, but it depends.

Derek
bran new weld racing RTS 15x10's. tire installed dry. 1.5x 60fts. 10psi. should be faster tho.
Old 07-18-2010, 12:49 PM
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i would try more pressure first. start around 15lbs
Old 07-18-2010, 12:51 PM
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what your hp at the wheels? also some beed lock would help if you reinstall the tires with it. Im a M6 I 60' mid 1.5X with a cam only car and I get no tire spin with bias ply mickey 28" tire.
Old 07-18-2010, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by brandoz28
i would try more pressure first. start around 15lbs
no way the car will hook at 15 psi man. i'm lookin for 1.4x 60fts. car makes over 600ftlbs TQ at the tires.
Old 07-18-2010, 03:06 PM
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have you ever tried more pressure? 10 seems low for what most are running now unless you're in a big tire car



edit: with that much power this isn't going to fix the problem with the rims spinning in the tires. for that you'll most likely have to screw it, or try the permatex

Last edited by brandoz28; 07-18-2010 at 03:20 PM.
Old 07-18-2010, 03:31 PM
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Screw them.
Old 07-18-2010, 04:06 PM
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I tried the same tire down that low, and it didn't work any better then running them at 11.5..... I'd put at least that in them.

You probably will need to screw them though, every tire I tried without screws moved, I finally just said to hell with it and screwed them. Tip on screwing the tires: use moroso's screws. They're a "touch" shorter then the std ones you get thru summit and the like, and this helps prevent the leaks a good bit.
Old 07-18-2010, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by brandoz28
have you ever tried more pressure? 10 seems low for what most are running now unless you're in a big tire car



edit: with that much power this isn't going to fix the problem with the rims spinning in the tires. for that you'll most likely have to screw it, or try the permatex
started at 14psi. went lower from there. 60ft improved untill it started spining the rim inside the tire.
Old 07-19-2010, 10:33 AM
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^will be your friend..i know of 2000hp radial cars just using that stuff..

get the can like in the pic..put it on the beads of your tires and remount them..wipe the extra away,air up and let dry
Old 07-19-2010, 11:43 AM
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I use that high tack stuff...debating on sending the wheels out for beadlock this time around though
Old 07-19-2010, 01:06 PM
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If you screw them, be sure to debur the holes on the inside of the wheels to help with sealing. Mine are screwed with no tubes, and RTV'd the screws and they still leak a tad, maybe 2lbs over a weeks time....

Mike
Old 07-19-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by StangEaterSS
started at 14psi. went lower from there. 60ft improved untill it started spining the rim inside the tire.
There ya go, and that point was probably below 11.5 or 12. 10 psi is too low. Lower does not always hook better, but it sure will cause other problems. Mine absolutely does not like less than 12 psi. I use 10.5" Hossiers on 12" wheels. Those hook better, with more air, than 10" wheels.
Old 07-19-2010, 01:58 PM
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Rim width will affect how much air a tire likes as well, if you're on a narrow rim for the tire, you'll most likly need less to keep the contact patch flat, too much air will cause the tire to "bubble" more.

Wider rim, like what Ed is using it will take a littl more since the sidewall is spread out more, and the contact patch is naturally spread due to the rim width... added air is needed so that the entire contact patch can work.

Varying rim width, is sort of like playing with air pressure in relation to what the contact patch of the tire looks like.

Example, same tire, on a 8 inch vs 10 inch vs 12 inch rim, wider the rim the more flat the contact patch is kept. Therefore, the more air that is needed to keep the center of the tire on the ground right.
Old 07-19-2010, 01:58 PM
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I think i'm going to screw them anyway. next time out I'll stay around 11 to 12 psi and play with suspension settings.
Old 07-19-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Rim width will affect how much air a tire likes as well, if you're on a narrow rim for the tire, you'll most likly need less to keep the contact patch flat, too much air will cause the tire to "bubble" more.
The previous passes i had 8" prostars with a 27x10.50 and it liked 10psi. that is the reason i was willing to go as low as 10psi on my new wheels and tires which were now 10" wide rims. I didn't consider rim width affecting tire pressure.
Old 07-19-2010, 02:25 PM
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It does, rim width also affects the contact patch, wider rim with the same tire will increase the contact patch, and high speed stability, which is a nice side effect.

You can, go too wide, causing the sidewall to be stretched too much, then they won't work right, and you can go too narrow, causing the tire to be too much of a bubble.

Example, a 10 inch tire can work on an 8 10 and 12 inch rim, try it on a 6 inch rim and it won't work for **** if it will even fit, and if you tried it on a 14 inch rim, if it would even fit, it wouldn't work for **** either.

Tire height, also affects what you can put the tire on for a rim... a 33x10.5 tire can go on a 15 inch rim. Reason being, isn't just tread width, it's carcass width.

The tire's carcass width has a large effect as to what rim width will work as well.

Alot of factors help determine what rim width will work, and what effect it will have on the tire.


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