What have you done to your car that other people over look?
08-13-2010, 01:08 PM
#1
What have you done to your car that other people over look? I think the way to having a car thats fast for what is, is a matter of not overlooking the small things, and making sure it all compliments itself...
What have YOU done that gives you that edge?
Examples:
-Losing a couple pounds off the nose by switching to an aftermarket catch can..
-The special way YOU ran your ram-air setup
-Chromoly vs. mild steal
-Correct tire and gear ratio combinations
-Shift points etc
What have YOU done that gives you that edge?
Examples:
-Losing a couple pounds off the nose by switching to an aftermarket catch can..
-The special way YOU ran your ram-air setup
-Chromoly vs. mild steal
-Correct tire and gear ratio combinations
-Shift points etc
08-13-2010, 08:26 PM
#6
4.56 here with 28x10.5 ET Drags. Shift at 6k and go through the traps at 6k exactly. If drag racing is what you wanna do, having the gears and tires compliment each other will help. Use the calculators to figure out exactly what you need based on what kind of rpm you wanna turn. As far as shedding weight, I think some of the build threads on here just about cover every ounce you can take out.
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08-13-2010, 11:21 PM
#12
haha
I have tons of little things on this all over the car. starting at the top of the motor just to make it easier to work on..
not running the rearmost coil braket bolts,
and changing out the pointed ones for normal 10mm head ones
2 piece cut stock timing cover
cut alt bracket for short belt and no bolt changing
acc, holes in PS pulley
marked TB for smooth bellow placement (chris1313 cut 22* 4") ( ref. of the parting line)
ported and smothed inside lip on 85mm MAF to fit the bellow better, and tail cut back and blended to fit the turn better.
sealed lid,
sanded the parting line inside the SLp lid
sealed lower airbox, and very nice SUX2BU setup
cut the end holes, to slots with a open bottem on stock headers gaskets. So you can drop in the gaskets with the end bolts in loose.
trimmed the points off cowl seal push tees, so no cuts on your arms
for going faster..
I have tons of little things on this all over the car. starting at the top of the motor just to make it easier to work on..
not running the rearmost coil braket bolts,
and changing out the pointed ones for normal 10mm head ones
2 piece cut stock timing cover
cut alt bracket for short belt and no bolt changing
acc, holes in PS pulley
marked TB for smooth bellow placement (chris1313 cut 22* 4") ( ref. of the parting line)
ported and smothed inside lip on 85mm MAF to fit the bellow better, and tail cut back and blended to fit the turn better.
sealed lid,
sanded the parting line inside the SLp lid
sealed lower airbox, and very nice SUX2BU setup
cut the end holes, to slots with a open bottem on stock headers gaskets. So you can drop in the gaskets with the end bolts in loose.
trimmed the points off cowl seal push tees, so no cuts on your arms
for going faster..
Last edited by studderin; 08-13-2010 at 11:28 PM.
08-13-2010, 11:54 PM
#13
haha
I have tons of little things on this all over the car. starting at the top of the motor just to make it easier to work on..
not running the rearmost coil braket bolts,
and changing out the pointed ones for normal 10mm head ones
2 piece cut stock timing cover
cut alt bracket for short belt and no bolt changing
acc, holes in PS pulley
marked TB for smooth bellow placement (chris1313 cut 22* 4") ( ref. of the parting line)
ported and smothed inside lip on 85mm MAF to fit the bellow better, and tail cut back and blended to fit the turn better.
sealed lid,
sanded the parting line inside the SLp lid
sealed lower airbox, and very nice SUX2BU setup
cut the end holes, to slots with a open bottem on stock headers gaskets. So you can drop in the gaskets with the end bolts in loose.
trimmed the points off cowl seal push tees, so no cuts on your arms
for going faster..
I have tons of little things on this all over the car. starting at the top of the motor just to make it easier to work on..
not running the rearmost coil braket bolts,
and changing out the pointed ones for normal 10mm head ones
2 piece cut stock timing cover
cut alt bracket for short belt and no bolt changing
acc, holes in PS pulley
marked TB for smooth bellow placement (chris1313 cut 22* 4") ( ref. of the parting line)
ported and smothed inside lip on 85mm MAF to fit the bellow better, and tail cut back and blended to fit the turn better.
sealed lid,
sanded the parting line inside the SLp lid
sealed lower airbox, and very nice SUX2BU setup
cut the end holes, to slots with a open bottem on stock headers gaskets. So you can drop in the gaskets with the end bolts in loose.
trimmed the points off cowl seal push tees, so no cuts on your arms
for going faster..
08-14-2010, 09:40 AM
#17
Something I have done that people dont see is the custom emblem pros switch panel. I also hid my nitrous solenoid box (zex kit) under the fuse and relay box. It looks pretty clean. Most people tend to over look the 9". I also put a shiftlight in the little air vent hole in the A pillar.
Hope this is what youre looking for.
Hope this is what youre looking for.
08-14-2010, 12:13 PM
#19
My car isn't the fastest but its much faster than most people think it would be. I just sold the 383SBC in my car to build a 408LS engine. My 383 ran high 10's on pump gas n/a, and was street driven including to the track. The attention to small details and matching every part together makes all the difference in the world. My 383 definately took a lot of people by surprise, it could easily pass for a 12-13 sec car. It was a very well matched combination that ran great for what it was and was very reliable.
- 6pt roll bar, tucked very nicely and the window tint makes it hard to see too
- roll bar is chrome moly
- Engine is very clean giving it more of a show car appearance than race car
- 2 1/2 in. cowl hood, I'm not a fan of huge hoods ,a small subtle cowl is the way to go unless you need the clearance
- full interior, hidden switches for fuel pump, fans etc.
- dual 3in exhaust with magnaflow mufflers is fairly quiet especially at idle. The lope of the cam and sound of the solid lifters would give it away if you knew what to listen for but most people don't know the difference.
- All the stuff you can't see inside the engine that made it faster than it looked and very reliable. Dart Pro 1 heads full race port job, shaft mounted rockers, solid roller cam, 4 bolt splayed caps, all forged bottom end
- 275 drag radials tucked nicely
- 6pt roll bar, tucked very nicely and the window tint makes it hard to see too
- roll bar is chrome moly
- Engine is very clean giving it more of a show car appearance than race car
- 2 1/2 in. cowl hood, I'm not a fan of huge hoods ,a small subtle cowl is the way to go unless you need the clearance
- full interior, hidden switches for fuel pump, fans etc.
- dual 3in exhaust with magnaflow mufflers is fairly quiet especially at idle. The lope of the cam and sound of the solid lifters would give it away if you knew what to listen for but most people don't know the difference.
- All the stuff you can't see inside the engine that made it faster than it looked and very reliable. Dart Pro 1 heads full race port job, shaft mounted rockers, solid roller cam, 4 bolt splayed caps, all forged bottom end
- 275 drag radials tucked nicely
