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zr1 17x11 vs. weld 15x10

Old 08-24-2010, 10:10 AM
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Default zr1 17x11 vs. weld 15x10

was about to order some 315 dr's (mickeys) for my zr1's then i noticed how much they weigh.....I could order some wheels for the back (welds or B/Spec)....but thats going to double the $$ spent.....how much rwhp do you guys think the zr1's are going to rob me vs. if i bought a pair of 10-12 lb alum. wheels for the back........
Old 08-24-2010, 10:47 AM
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There is definitly a large night and day difference.

As much is it is about rotational weight there is a BIG advantage to running a larger sidewall, the more give it has helps the car as far as 60 foot range.

You have a lot to decide as if your going to change the wheel set up entirely, do you even race at a track?

Depending on the circumstances it could matter greatly, but if your not racing, then who cares, run the rim you like and if you want a little more stick then the average radial, then M/T is your best shot.

The lighter the rim and more side wall will help greatly with traction and speed, but you gotta decide if you want to spend the coin.

In my situation, I broke down and bought 2 sets of rims and tires as I do not "live" at or near a track, closest is a 2-1/2 hr drive (100 miles one way) and I go at best in recent years 1-4 times depend on funds and time.

BUT when I do go, I want the car to run well. So for the street I run a 17" WS.6 Rim with a Nitto, does fine, not a lot of street racing around here) and for the track a set of Centerline Convo Pros, 15 x 4 and backs are 15 x 10 and I have a set waiting to get mounted for 26" ET Drags.

The car will get a higher gear, prob 4.30's and a spool and I will run on the street rim and track rim a 28" tall tire all the time, but thats in the future.

So you see that every change you make is about making the choice thats right for you.

Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 08-24-2010 at 11:05 AM. Reason: clarification
Old 08-24-2010, 11:28 AM
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Blackscreamingmachine pretty much summed it all up.

I think your wheel combo should fall in line with the rest of the car as far as aggressiveness.

If your running a streetable cam with all the creature comforts then the zr1 combo, while heavy, is probably just fine.

If you got a Trex with 4.30's a spool and weight pulled out of the car, well if that is how you use and drive the car then a light wheel combo is certainly worth the money.

I personally went out and grabbed a cheap set of speedlines for mine since on the formula I think they look great. I later plan to grab a set of light weight wheels with a light bias ply combo at a later point. Basically what BSM did.
Old 08-24-2010, 12:11 PM
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Default 50%track /50% street

a/4, 12bolt w/410 gears,built lq. 9.......I have pretty new 315 f1's on the car now.....It just blows the tires out.....even tried to take off in 2nd...planing on going to the track in 2 weeks......just want to make the car stick
Old 08-24-2010, 01:55 PM
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Thank Nitrous Exp. Appreciate the compliment. Half of everything is knowing what you want to do, and the other half is going out there and doing it. I have spent the money and learned hard lessons. Some like to argue but in the end the buyer is spending the cash and they have to make the best decision for themselves.

LAcajun: To be honest, a m6 is a FUN transmission. BUT when it comes to traction, its one of the harder set ups to get to work not only off the line but consistant passes. Automatic set ups definitly take much out of the equation.

In your case, you have a built car, changing the compound helps but at this point sidewall flex and maybe some given in the tire is going to matter more. I don't expect to be the fastest car out there, I expect to have some fun. IF I was chasing a # I would go straight to a 15" rim, and a ET drag (bias ply) and make sure the stall works with it and go put up a Personal Best.


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