johnzss

iTrader: (11)

When i did the rebuild on my LQ9 few weeks ago, i went ahead and installed a new OEM LS1 oil pan. Torque down properly. There has always been a very minimal leak from the 2 bolts towards the front (not the 2 that screws into the timing cover) since day one. So i finally got some time to try to stop it, adding a rubber/metal washer.. didnt work. So as i looked a little more, i notice there was a hair line crack that i believe is the problem. SO, what should i do? I wanted to hear from others that replaced their oil pans with the motor being in the car, Should i go with a aftermarket oil pan like Moroso or canton? or should i just get another OEM replacement? This is a street car built for fun (LQ9 H/C with BMR k-member) and not a full race car. Any advice or suggestions will be helpful! thanks guys/gals.. here are the pics..

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Stock replacemet is fine. IMO

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, that's what I end buying again. As far as the crack towards the front of the pan goes, should I loosen the timing cover and realign with the new pan installl? Its flush with the block right now towards the bottom but I was thinking I can always redo it and double check everything.. Suggestions?

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I would just have it welded, and will hold just fine.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

just weld it, bring it to a welding shop. I fix them all the time.

99LS6SS

iTrader: (4)

I don't see that costing more than $40 to have welded. I had a wheel welded and it took the guy half an hour to cut completely through the crack, weld from both sides, and grind down and polish it back to new.

johnzss

iTrader: (11)

before it was cracked, oil was leaking where those 2 bolts pictured above. i even removed that and put RTV, still leaking. Im thinking it can be a alignment problem. I rather not weld it, i bought a new one for piece of mind. the material used to make the oil pans are cheap.