Finally did my battery relocation
11-26-2010, 08:39 PM
#1
Finally did my battery relocation It's 90% done.. Just need to fasten down the hotwire, connect the amp, bottle heater and put the battery holder bracket on.. Used a 200 amp circuit breaker VS a 200 amp fuse.. Car cranked right up, curious to see how it does(charging/starting wise) next year when I drive it.. I know without a kill switch and bulkhead it's not NHRA legal, but tech is pretty easy here.. If they catch it, it only takes 10 minutes to swap back to stock...
Last edited by OIF1VET; 11-26-2010 at 08:46 PM.
11-26-2010, 08:50 PM
#3
Thanks man.. Got it from this guy:https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...use-block.html
But I swapped out the fuse for a circuit breaker...
But I swapped out the fuse for a circuit breaker...
11-28-2010, 05:56 AM
#7
The simple answer is yes.. I just ran the hot from the rear to a distro block in the front, ground off battery and ground off distro block.. I've started it a few times, fired right up.. Won't know til next year how well it will hold up..
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11-28-2010, 03:47 PM
#9
Where is your shutoff switch, and if you pull the connector off the battery, will it kill the car? Looking at that I'm guessing no... meaning that's not track legal and they won't allow it.
You need a kill switch, that's labeled on the exterior of the car how to turn it off, and you need to take the wire from the ALT, and run a 2nd wire from it back to the battery, so that when you hit the kill switch, it won't allow the ALT to keep the car running.
You also need a metal bulkhead to seperate the trunk area from the driving compartment, or you need to ditch the BMR bracket and put the battery in the T top well, in a sealed battery box, like a moroso one or the like.
If you never take the car to the track then it doesn't matter.... but if you do take it to the track, they're not gonna allow it without the above mentioned changes.
You need a kill switch, that's labeled on the exterior of the car how to turn it off, and you need to take the wire from the ALT, and run a 2nd wire from it back to the battery, so that when you hit the kill switch, it won't allow the ALT to keep the car running.
You also need a metal bulkhead to seperate the trunk area from the driving compartment, or you need to ditch the BMR bracket and put the battery in the T top well, in a sealed battery box, like a moroso one or the like.
If you never take the car to the track then it doesn't matter.... but if you do take it to the track, they're not gonna allow it without the above mentioned changes.
11-28-2010, 03:53 PM
#10
Where is your shutoff switch, and if you pull the connector off the battery, will it kill the car? Looking at that I'm guessing no... meaning that's not track legal and they won't allow it.
You need a kill switch, that's labeled on the exterior of the car how to turn it off, and you need to take the wire from the ALT, and run a 2nd wire from it back to the battery, so that when you hit the kill switch, it won't allow the ALT to keep the car running.
You also need a metal bulkhead to seperate the trunk area from the driving compartment, or you need to ditch the BMR bracket and put the battery in the T top well, in a sealed battery box, like a moroso one or the like.
If you never take the car to the track then it doesn't matter.... but if you do take it to the track, they're not gonna allow it without the above mentioned changes.
You need a kill switch, that's labeled on the exterior of the car how to turn it off, and you need to take the wire from the ALT, and run a 2nd wire from it back to the battery, so that when you hit the kill switch, it won't allow the ALT to keep the car running.
You also need a metal bulkhead to seperate the trunk area from the driving compartment, or you need to ditch the BMR bracket and put the battery in the T top well, in a sealed battery box, like a moroso one or the like.
If you never take the car to the track then it doesn't matter.... but if you do take it to the track, they're not gonna allow it without the above mentioned changes.
