Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I converted from a 6 speed to a 200-4R. I have the TCI 29.1 SFI approved flexplate, Yank SS4000, fully built 200-4R by Mike Kurtz at Century Transmission, stock 10 bolt w/ 3.42s, most bolt ons, C2 cam, Spohn chromoly suspension-LCAs, PHB, TA, rear swaybar, SFCs, Hals in a 4 corners w/new R series in the front, Denny's nitrous ready shaft, Bogarts, and ET Streets. Car weighs 3470 lbs. w/me in it. Here were the results:

Best:

60 ft. 1.62
1/8 7.32/94.99
1/4 11.52/114.34

Whats wrong...its seems that theres something going on in the top end. It felt kinda weak towards the end of the track. Any ideas, suggestions, cures, etc.? Thanks.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

That's pretty good for cam only.

I was expecting higher mph like 116-117mph. That 94 in the 1/8th would support that too. Might want to see if you were getting KR up top or whether the converter did not lock or something maybe see if you had a lot of slippage.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

john echoed my thoughts, i was gonna ask about the converter not locking up or false knock.

sounds like the car is moving et wise though.

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

maybe the 3.42's are hurting you a little??? and like others are saying, could be other stuff, get some ATAP logs if you can. What are you stalling the converter up to?? I would expect the 60' to be a little better also, even though the SS series isnt really the hard hitter like the PT & PS.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Im a newbie with this setup and especially autos.,...what do you mean about the converter locking? How would I check for slippage or knock retard?


Whats false knock?


I thought that the 3.42s would be better than what the 3.23 cars come equipped with. Whats ATAP logs and how can I get them? I started out with 2000 and pulled a 1.7, but then I bumped it up to 2500 and pulled 1.6.

Thanks everyone for your input so far. I hope that I can get this problem fixed so that I can get some better runs.

MARKSZ71

iTrader: (3)

there is nothing wrong with a 1132 boy u must be drinking

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Its actually an 11.52, big difference. I wouldnt be complaining if it was an 11.3, but its not. Im hoping to pull an 11.4 when I got back because by looking at the slips, I know it has it in it, but we'll see. Maybe if I get the car running just right I might be able to pull some 1.5s and hopefully an 11.3.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

60 ft. 1.62
1/8 7.32/94.99
1/4 11.52/114.34

Longer list of things to check:

-1.6 spinning or car did not leave hard? With a 1.50-1.53 you should go low 11.4's no problem maybe a 11.38 eventually.
-That 114mph might be the converter not locking/major converter slippage, major KR, or a low 2-3 shift point. Try shifting 2-3 higher until the car noses over.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So you think that the SS series 4000 can pull 1.5s? Im stalling it up to 2500 rpm, is that not enough? About the converter locking, is it suppose to at WOT or while racing? My tranny only tells the converter to lock up in 4th gear, theres no lockup in 3rd. Im running a 200-4R which is a non-computer controlled tranny. I thought that you dont want the converter to lock up because it lugs the motor down in which would slow the car down, right? About it slipping, would it slip if its a brand new converter? How would I check for knock retard? I let the car shift on its own so 1-2 is at 6500 and 2-3 is usually the same if not 6400. I think the 200-4Rs have a slightly lower 2-3 shift. Anyhow, let me know. Thank you for your help.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I think that the factory A4 setup would lock up at 95mph in 3rd when I last customized the lockup point.

If you are sure that 2/3 is at 6400, you might want to touch a tick higher and see if there is value or the car runs the same.

Basically you need to make a checklist and try a few things but only one thing at a time. As far as 60ft goes that's a different issue it could be many things.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Do you want the converter to lock up while making a pass? I assumed not because when the converter locks up, it will lug down the motor which then slows it down. So I assume that you dont want it to lock up. My 200-4R only has 4th gear lockup. I have a switch to that where I can turn it off and on when I want, but it doesnt go into 4th while making a pass. I just throw in in drive (not overdrive) and let the car shift itself. If I was to bump the shift points for 2-3, it will bring the 1-2 shifts up as well. I also have to drop the pan and pull the governor.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

your trans only locks the converter in 4th? is the trans shifted electronically or no?

if the converter was locking mid/top of 3rd you would see high teens MPH right away.

To me the MPH is a little low in the 1/8th,too, but not by much, prolly ok.

I think you might be losing some HP somewhere, really need to get a run logged on Autotap or something similar to see whats going on.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

The 200-4R is a non-computer controlled tranny, so the shifts are controlled by vacuum. The 200-4R usually has a lower 2-3 shift of probably 100 rpms if that. My 1-2 shifts are at 6500 and my 2-3 shifts are around 6400. I just had my limiter set at 6700. My tranny only has lockup in 4th gear for gas mileage. I can turn it off and on with a switch. How would locking the converter in 3rd benefit you? I dont understand that part. I dont have autotap or any tools like that, so how would I get these logs? Thanks.

felton316

Well, I don't know about LS1's and 200-4R's, but all my buddies with sbc 350's and 200-4r's, use a manual lock-up switch for their converters. They recommend for fastest track times to lock it up after you shift in to 2nd gear. They way they explained it to me was when its locked the converter will not 'suck up' power from the rear wheels, but when its unlocked it attributes to parasitic drivetrain loss. An analogy they used was comparing it to a clutch: When locked its a direct connection between engine and tranny, when unlocked its like slipping a clutch.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Nv, an A4 will lock up in 3rd going down the track stock. You are right, locking up too soon will lug the motor down.

I had my locking at 95mph as I have noted before it added value.

Try it. Try 100, 95, and then 90, when the mph goes down you found where it lugs the motor down.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I just got off the phone with my builder, the tranny doesnt have manual lockup. The only manual switch I have is to turn on and off lockup in 4th gear. He says he can add another wire into it where I can lock it up in 2nd and 3rd, but he says 2nd probably wouldnt help any with my setup. He says that the turbo guys do it becasue they put down a lot more torque at lower rpms. He says doing it in 3rd would help, but not as soon as it goes into 3rd. He says I just have to experiment with it and see where its best turning it on at. So should I get that done? Also, he said to make sure that the converter is ok to lockup in WOT because if not, it will ruin the clutch. Do you know if the SS4000 is ok to lockup in WOT? Thanks.

XFiveLiter

John I'm pretty sure you are incorrect about this. With stock programming the converter should not lock under WOT unless you use a manual switch or LS1 Edit.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Mark, we programmed mine to lock at 95mph at WOT.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So do you think that I should get the manual lockup installed on the tranny and see if it does any better at the track? Hopefully that will take care of it, but I wasnt sure if I should get it. I wanted to get an opinion(s) before I drive an hour to the shop. Thanks.

Also, I dont have any of those scanning tools, do you know if MTI can check for whatever it is that I need to check? Should I put it on the dyno?

XFiveLiter

FWIW I don't think the SS4000 is inefficient, so I wouldn't worry about the lock up. Your car is falling on its face after the 1/8, get someone (MTI) to auto tap your car and/or get it to a dyno.

My guess is you are getting alot of KR.