'95 Z28 LSx Drag Build
07-07-2011, 10:50 PM
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'95 Z28 LSx Drag Build Finally got my bracket racer project going after being busy the past several months. Anyway, plans have changed a few times, but I have a 6.0l for it now. Got the tranny out today and will pull the engine/accessories tomorrow and put 'em up for sale. After that I can start gutting the car and getting the lsx ready (still need computer, harness, tb, starter, coil packs to get running). I just ordered some longtubes, and am looking for a cam (ms4 or similar). After I get the engine running, I'll move to stripping it and fabbing up a rear end. Any racers here with chassis/rear-end with suggestions, feel free to comment on set-ups. I'm hoping to have this done by end of August/September so I can get a race in.
Here's my list:
Stock lq4 (will be getting cam)
Longtube headers
Ls1 intake (will be getting ls6 after I finish the build)
Powerglide tranny with trans brake and 4000-4500 stall
Qa1 front shocks
9" ford-rear end and torque arm (probably 31 spline spool)
4.56 gears
Roll cage
15x10" drag wheels and slicks
Small fuel cell
Gutting the car
Here's the car as it is now:
Here's my list:
Stock lq4 (will be getting cam)
Longtube headers
Ls1 intake (will be getting ls6 after I finish the build)
Powerglide tranny with trans brake and 4000-4500 stall
Qa1 front shocks
9" ford-rear end and torque arm (probably 31 spline spool)
4.56 gears
Roll cage
15x10" drag wheels and slicks
Small fuel cell
Gutting the car
Here's the car as it is now:
07-08-2011, 10:05 AM
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Thanks, and yes I will being taking off everything I don't need for racing. I'm hoping to get the engine out today, and I'll probably have a friend come over next week to start tearing it apart...
07-08-2011, 06:36 PM
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Thanks guys, and yes I have been looking at a lot of threads on this lsx swap. Fortunately my dad got the lt1 out today, so will be selling that asap. Next thing to do is gut the car this upcoming week. I will definitely take more pics along the way, as I like documenting this stuff (been doing it with dirt bikes, lol). I'm hopefully going to Brainerd this Sunday to watch some bracket racing, and will be looking for f-body's to get some more ideas...
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07-08-2011, 07:32 PM
#8
My advise is to race wire the car... you will save alot of weight and it will be alot easier to work on.
If you haven't planned the fuel system, put a 2 gallon cell in the nose, that will save a ton of weight and is a TON cheaper then an aftermarket tank and lines to the back. Plus, it's alot less fire in the event of a disaster.
10 pt the car now and cert it to 8.50, as ya never know when you'll want to try to pick up the pace.
Glide is a great move, I'd spend the $ on a SFI approved case version now, as it is alot easier to deal with when there's no external shield needed.
Take the time to get the weight out on the initial build too.. saves time in the long run.
If you can do a minitub now, do it.. that way the rear, and rim combo won't be something you want to change/upgrade later... saves money in the long run compared to doing it twice.
Not sure if you plan on tuning it yourself or not, but having the software to do it yourself or at least make your own at the track adjustments as needed is a great thing to have.
Not sure what you're doing with the intake... but if you've ever considered a carb, or anything like that I'd try to do it now, rather then waiting. Again, saving alot of time and money in the long run.
Being that I built my car to a 10.50 car, redid alot to get it to 9.50, and now have it 100% apart in an effort to go for 8.50 I speak from experience, try to do as much the first time as you can. Initial investment will be worse yes, but in the long run you will save alot of money and time.
If you haven't planned the fuel system, put a 2 gallon cell in the nose, that will save a ton of weight and is a TON cheaper then an aftermarket tank and lines to the back. Plus, it's alot less fire in the event of a disaster.
10 pt the car now and cert it to 8.50, as ya never know when you'll want to try to pick up the pace.
Glide is a great move, I'd spend the $ on a SFI approved case version now, as it is alot easier to deal with when there's no external shield needed.
Take the time to get the weight out on the initial build too.. saves time in the long run.
If you can do a minitub now, do it.. that way the rear, and rim combo won't be something you want to change/upgrade later... saves money in the long run compared to doing it twice.
Not sure if you plan on tuning it yourself or not, but having the software to do it yourself or at least make your own at the track adjustments as needed is a great thing to have.
Not sure what you're doing with the intake... but if you've ever considered a carb, or anything like that I'd try to do it now, rather then waiting. Again, saving alot of time and money in the long run.
Being that I built my car to a 10.50 car, redid alot to get it to 9.50, and now have it 100% apart in an effort to go for 8.50 I speak from experience, try to do as much the first time as you can. Initial investment will be worse yes, but in the long run you will save alot of money and time.
07-08-2011, 08:23 PM
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Yep, I'll be getting a small fuel cell, but was hoping to put it in the rear. We'll probably put a 6 point in for now because it's just going to be an 11 second car, but we'll make it so we can add more later. If it's not too difficult, we may do a mini tub. By the way, I'm looking to get some pro stars, does 15x10" sound good, and 10 or 10.5" slicks for the rear? Will get skinnies too. My dad has a case cover for the glide, so we may put that in if it fits.
Stock ls1 intake to start out, and will be getting an hp tuner/laptop (my dad will show me how to tune). And yes, I will be getting as much of the car done/ready for when I want to get more power (9" rear-end, torque arm, gears, spool, etc).
Stock ls1 intake to start out, and will be getting an hp tuner/laptop (my dad will show me how to tune). And yes, I will be getting as much of the car done/ready for when I want to get more power (9" rear-end, torque arm, gears, spool, etc).
Last edited by tomstark; 07-08-2011 at 08:35 PM.
07-09-2011, 01:20 PM
#15
Bracket car.....has to repeat as best as possible. It's not nessassarily about getting the car as fast as possible, but to repeat within .00x. With only 1 shift, and how easy the car will leave.. this is very beneficial.
Most of the bracket racers I know that have very very consistant cars, are running glides. Some even with 12 second cars, fwiw. Glide makes a slower car, very very consistant. Track conditions with an 11 second bracket car that's on a 28 inch slick are almost totally irrevelant. Only thing you have to really be concerned with is the car falling off from getting hot, and weather.
Most of the bracket racers I know that have very very consistant cars, are running glides. Some even with 12 second cars, fwiw. Glide makes a slower car, very very consistant. Track conditions with an 11 second bracket car that's on a 28 inch slick are almost totally irrevelant. Only thing you have to really be concerned with is the car falling off from getting hot, and weather.
07-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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Engine is out, going to watch some bracket racing tomorrow and get some ideas (parts too?). I just bought an ms4 from another member here, so hopefully I can get this 6.0 running soon. Here's some more pics.... (first ones were taken last month after the car had been sitting for several months)
As you can see, it's not the prettiest car (as to why this is my first drag car project to cut up, lol). If we can get this to run and drive good, then I'll start thinking about making it look pretty.
As you can see, it's not the prettiest car (as to why this is my first drag car project to cut up, lol). If we can get this to run and drive good, then I'll start thinking about making it look pretty.