midwestjunk

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking to swap my t-56 for a TH400 trans. the plan is to find a used 400 cheap and bring it to my trans shop after I cut the bell housing off and install an ultrabell. then they can build it for the power i'll be making. what year or specific style of TH400 do i need to search for that will work for my camaro? are the bellhousing bolts the same as my t-56? or will i need a special ultrabell to fit an LS1? If there are differnt 400's, how do i tell them apart?

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

I think all you need is a Short trail TH400 Other than that they will all bolt up and fit.

Why are you wanting to cut the bell off and run the ultra bell. Just run a stock bell (you just loose 1 bell bolt) and put a C5R shield on it then you are protected if the trans blows not just the converter.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

If you are cutting the bellhousing I don't think it matters. If you are using the bell you need a chevy style I believe. There is also one that fits Pontiac, Buick and olds.

midwestjunk

iTrader: (2)

what is a C5R shield? i assume it covers the whole trans like a trans blanket?

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

Yep it is a hard shield that covers the whole trans. Goes from bell housing to almost the tail.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

bellhousing bolts are the same.

You use 5 or 6 bellhousing bolts b/c of the inspection cover.

Get a 14 mm ratchet head wrench for tightening the upper bolt on the driver side.

I'd stick with the JW Bell. Sheilds are a pain in the as.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Its a csr not c5r. They tuck real tight to the trans.

http://www.jegs.com/i/CSR/170/832/10002/-1

midwestjunk

iTrader: (2)

so any th400 will work? i have heard I atleast want to find a short tailed one.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

CSR Carbon Fiber Shield on a TH350

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

yes youll want a short tail and a chevy bolt pattern which should be easiest to find.

This is the shape of a pontiac bellhousing, notice the shape of the top bolts and how spread out they are, look at my pic above and youll see the difference on how my th350 bolts up.

midwestjunk

iTrader: (2)

ok, short tail chevy bolt pattern. I'll start my search!

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

You can run either a long or short tail. It's not much of an issue if you're going with an aftermarket driveshaft.

I had a BOP TH400 that I was going to use with an adapter plate. What a huge hassle....gave that deal up and now have a Chevy TH400. Since you mentioned cutting the bellhousing off and going with the Ultrabell, as said already it won't be an issue. My BOP trans had a 13" tailshaft, so it would have made for a short driveshaft.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

oops wrong thread

lumen8

Well the 9" tail ones work too, and your driveshaft ends up shorter/lighter... but the longer tail might get in the way of the stock torque arm mount a little, stuff gets close. If you have a shorter torque arm with relocated mount it shouldnt matter. The 9" end has the same mount, the tail housing looks very strong, and this was fitted to most mid sized cars. (The really long 12" is the one with the uncommon different mount etc)

There is a tag on 400's with some codes so you can look up the year and what car it came from. I have the book here if you need to throw a code at me. Not all 400's are the same, if possible you want to avoid the later ones with steel apply pistons in the clutches, especially the forward and direct drums. I think they changed around 1975 / 6 to the steel pistons, and you can deform them with more line pressure, like when you install a manual vb or transbrake.

That said, if you are tearing it down anyway, you can swap the clutch apply pistons out for the earlier aluminum style, they have been repro'd and summit and others carry them, billet ones also available. The three pistons you want to change out are the direct, intermediate and forward clutch pistons.

Ive blown out the stamped steel direct clutch drum pistons/seals myself after just a few WOT blasts with 180 psi line pressure from a manual valve body, so I know first hand what they say is true about the shitty steel apply pistons.

The other thing that changed (for the worse) around the same time, mid 70's, was the intermediate sprag outer race, which went from a factory forged 47 tooth virtually unbreakable thing, to a 43 tooth turd. Again you can swap that out though, and theres good s/h ones all over ebay etc.

So yea late 60s early 70s will usually have the good sprag outer race, and at least 2 of the 3 aluminum pistons in the clutches. I think the aluminum intermediate piston is only pre 68.

And BOP cases are said to be heavier duty cases.

lumen8

I just realised OP is 2011

oh well it will get my post count up.