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Using stock steering rack wo the pump in a race application

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Old 03-01-2012, 11:50 AM   #1
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Default Using stock steering rack wo the pump in a race application

Just wandered if anyone has just not used their power steering pump and took it off and used your stock steering rack and just made the hoses and loop into each other on the rack. Has anyone ran this vs doing a manual rack set up. The car is never driven on the street if anyone ask.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:04 PM   #2
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Trying to push something that is designed to use fluid to move makes it waaaay harder then it needs to be. IF your going that route, put a manual rack in it. Also if the car has a spool, I feel bad for you as trying to push a car that has that was incredibly tough @ 3000 race weight.

When driving, you should be "ok" but if your not making fwd progress and trying to turn, its very tough.

IF you can, disconnect the belt and drive it and see how you like it.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:10 PM   #3
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Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATVracr View Post
Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.
I did the same! Took a little muscle when at a stand still with the spool but it never bothered me.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:26 PM   #5
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Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.


Been driving mine like that for almost 5 years
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:42 PM   #6
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Dam I knew I should have Pm you ATV. thanks guys for the help.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:00 AM   #7
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I ran mine like that, just cut the stock lines and put a loop of rubber hose on. Simple.

Does clean the engine bay up some and will get ya by until you feel like putting a manual rack in.

Street driving with a skinny tire will be fine, stock width 275 would be a bitch I would think, never tried that but I'm sure it wouldn't be a ton of fun trying to park the car anywhere.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:19 AM   #8
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^ JL are you running your belt like this?


Click the image to open in full size.

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:07 AM   #9
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^^Put your idler pulley back on & run a lil bit longer belt.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:09 AM   #10
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I agree with JL.

What I can say is running just a U/D pully, it was noticeable on turning with a hyd steering rack and stock Ws.6 17's. But with my 15 x 4 Convos turned very nice. Your just going to have to put more effort into it.

Just remember, everyone tolerance or what they can/want to deal with is different. Some love it, some hate it, some deal with it since its weight and cleans up the bay. Everyone needs to make the decision that works for them. If I ran skinnes and spool 100% of the time. I would just pony up for a K-member and appropriate rack and be done with it.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:11 AM   #11
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^ JL are you running your belt like this?


Click the image to open in full size.

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?
I but a SLP U/D Pulley which has a high wall to avoid that or you can get a solid tensioner, should keep your in a good place. OR if your real worried, go for the elec W/P (race or street based on your needs)
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #12
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midwestjunk

I run my setup like that with an underdrive pulley and a Katech adjustable tensioner, I've never thrown a belt and I used to shift my car at 7100-7200
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:40 PM   #13
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I have been running my stock rack with the lines wide open for 8+ years. Street drive it like that for 6 years, and mainly a track only car the last 2. I have had no issues at all. I just took the fittings out of the rack, and ran it. Every car that I have seen with a actual manual rack has terrible turning radius. I area's that I can make a single turn they have to make multuple point turns.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:51 PM   #14
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I looped mine for a few years. It definitely takes a little effort, but nothing that you can't handle. At speed you really dont even notice it.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwestjunk View Post
^ JL are you running your belt like this?


Click the image to open in full size.

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?
No I never did it that way. I had an electric water pump on (race type without the stupid idler on it) and just ran the BMR alt bracket. Only thing I had to do was have the bracket milled down the thickness of the motor plate so that it would line up right. Wasn't a big deal local machinist did it for 20 bucks.

If I didn't have the motor plate I would have ran it the same way, and if I had to run the belt to the water pump like you are, as already stated I would put the other idler back on and get some more wrap on the water pump that way, and probably run a solid tensioner anyway just to be safe. Not sorth throwing that belt, thing can fly off and hit other stuff, damage something, etc. For the cost of the solid tensioner I would just do it.
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:50 PM   #16
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Does anyone know what thread the fiittings are I was planning on looping mine for now, I'll get a manual rack when I do the front suspension in the future
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:45 PM   #17
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Does anyone know what thread the fiittings are I was planning on looping mine for now, I'll get a manual rack when I do the front suspension in the future
I have a manual rack but I would like to know this also for future reference on other cars. I tried to find a fitting to loop mine and Napa told me it was metric and they didn't have any fittings for that application.
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:01 PM   #18
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What exactly is the purpose of the BMR alt relocation bracket.
Anyone with a pic.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:34 AM   #19
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What exactly is the purpose of the BMR alt relocation bracket.
Anyone with a pic.
It allows you to swing the alternator in order to tighten the belt down. In other words you don't run a tensioner and the belt tension is adjusted like an old school belt setup. I only run an alternator so it works out pretty nice plus eliminates the weight of the factory bracket an any other useless pullies.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:56 AM   #20
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someone post up a picture of how thier belt is looped
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