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Motor plate 1 or 2 piece?

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Old 04-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #1
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Default Motor plate 1 or 2 piece?

Looking for info on this, if you work on a car with one, or have one in your car tell me about it What kind is it, post a pic if you can.

The one piece or 2 piece style, whats good and bad. What do you like, what don't you like about it. If you did it over again what style would you use, what would you change.
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StreetSweeper cam, 425whp 393wtq, stock heads cam only, 4:30s, ARH 1 7/8,SLP 2OTL fast92/92: 10.84@127 ~3280 street mode/drag wheels 10.66@128.4 open headers, 3160#
Bigger newera cam 441whp/395wtq, 10.65 275DR. best mph 129.89 (10.660)
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:11 AM   #2
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2 peice from Madman.

Works great.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:52 PM   #3
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works great! As in, the motor haven't fallen out?



haha being a smart *** wayne
Your one of the guys I was looking for your option,.....you know whats up for making a car easier to work on, lighter, faster. I had stupid junk **** parts.
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2001 Z28 m6 Mike@NewEra tune,SLP lid,NewEra portedTB, powerbond,SUX2BU ramair,3.73 s60, RAM HD-330whp/350wtq12.21 @114
StreetSweeper cam, 425whp 393wtq, stock heads cam only, 4:30s, ARH 1 7/8,SLP 2OTL fast92/92: 10.84@127 ~3280 street mode/drag wheels 10.66@128.4 open headers, 3160#
Bigger newera cam 441whp/395wtq, 10.65 275DR. best mph 129.89 (10.660)
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:17 PM   #4
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I have a KTR Racing motor plate in my car. Is a one piece unit which is what I personally wanted. Fit and finish was dead on. I haven't beat on it as of yet, but I worry about the two piece plates pivoting. Maybe they don't, but I just feel better with both sides connected. Just my 2 cents worth. www.ktsracecars.com Chuck

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Old 04-11-2012, 07:20 PM   #5
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I had a 1 piece one that was originally on the billingsley camaro, if I did it again I would use a 2 piece one. It would be easier to deal with.. you could pull 1/2 of it off making the engine removal alot easier, etc.

If you do it I would put a mid plate in at the same time... mine as well just do both. I did get away with just the motor plate but that may have just been luck. Travel limiter is a must to prevent forward/rearward shift of the engine/trans, and keep the load off the trans case.

Header removal and installation really does become a piece of cake. If you make the plate right plug access won't be much worse, just have to change the approach angle that you go after them from depending on how the plate is made, and where it attaches to the car. It will save some weight and improve the way the car reacts at the hit, and it will take the load off the sides of the cylinder case, not that you are probably having any issues there, but later down the road if you put a bigger motor in the car it will help with keeping the cyl's round over time.

If you do a motor plate and mid plate, one thing I would reccommend, is 3 bolts at all 4 locations on the body, this way if you want, you can put the engine on a hoist, and lower it in the car to help remove the trans if you have to at the track. It's pretty easy to do, just space all the bolts the same, and then you can, with a jack if you have to, lower the motor and reattach on the lower set of bolts. Makes getting the trans in and out really easy especially if you don't have a lift.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:20 AM   #6
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I run a one piece for both my BBC and SBC in my 68.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL ws-6 View Post
I h
If you do a motor plate and mid plate, one thing I would reccommend, is 3 bolts at all 4 locations on the body, this way if you want, you can put the engine on a hoist, and lower it in the car to help remove the trans if you have to at the track. It's pretty easy to do, just space all the bolts the same, and then you can, with a jack if you have to, lower the motor and reattach on the lower set of bolts. Makes getting the trans in and out really easy especially if you don't have a lift.
that sounds like a great idea! Were have you seen that done? simple, easy and sounds like it works.

I dont think you would need 3 bolts per corner,is there something Im missing. when you lower it down the top bolt in the lower hole, hand tight a bolt in quick will hold it up. The spacing of the upper and lower bolt is the drop. And with a stock oil pan, you can just block of wood on the pan. Alum racing jack on that, maybe need another on the trans. Just normal tools, dont need a hoist. If you do have a fab alum pan, and can't jack it up. You can make up a wood U Like I did to jack the motor up in car and get the pan off
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2001 Z28 m6 Mike@NewEra tune,SLP lid,NewEra portedTB, powerbond,SUX2BU ramair,3.73 s60, RAM HD-330whp/350wtq12.21 @114
StreetSweeper cam, 425whp 393wtq, stock heads cam only, 4:30s, ARH 1 7/8,SLP 2OTL fast92/92: 10.84@127 ~3280 street mode/drag wheels 10.66@128.4 open headers, 3160#
Bigger newera cam 441whp/395wtq, 10.65 275DR. best mph 129.89 (10.660)
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:32 PM   #8
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I had 2 bolts per side on my motor plate and that's how I used to get the trans out.. didn't have a mid plate in the car but will this time around. I would go with at least 2 on each corner, but 3 on the fronts would probably be a little better, if you have 3 then the plate will be in contact with the frame rails a little better and it will help keep everything alot more rigid, probably still not enough so you can get away from needing a lateral support but better.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:20 PM   #9
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I have a 1 piece from AEI, personally a fan of AEI and Bob, he is excellent to work with and get you exactly what you are looking for and he will also be able to answer all your questions about 1 and 2 piece motor plates. As you can see in the photo he made me a custom motor plate so we could mount the YSI to it.

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Old 04-17-2012, 06:20 PM
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